ROPS TOO TALL FOR GARAGE DOOR

rswyan · Jan 21, 2005

( I modified the header of my shed so that the 2210 would fit. It all depends on your situation, but try not to raise the bridge, lower the water if possible. )

I like this idea. I am within less than an inch of being to clear my foldable ROPS with it in the up position (without the lightbar installed) Putting the FROPS up and down every time I want to take the tractor in or out (just about every day in the summer) is a pain.

The door to the shed needs replaced anyways (an unfortunate incident with the HST pedal the first day I got the tractor /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif)

The building is concrete block and the door is steel four-panel unit that's on the inside wall. I've thought of taking out the concrete in the door area (width of the door x depth of the block) and repouring it so that it tapers down to the outside a couple of inches and then replacing the door with an exterior rollup-type door that would be mounted on the outside of the building. Thoughts ?

goodoleboy · Jan 21, 2005

Just a temporary solution. Deflate the tires and drive it on in.

Bowhunter · Jan 21, 2005

Cheapest suggestion yet: let some of the air out of your rear tires.

Bowhunter · Jan 21, 2005

LOL, looks like someone beat me by a few seconds. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Freds · Jan 21, 2005

I was just going to suggest the same thing /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
Maybe swapping out the tires for another type would lower it, too. If it's new, the dealer may do this for you.

The direction of your weld has a lot to do with weakening the base metal. For instance, if you are welding something onto a column (an "I" beam from floor to ceiling) your welds should be vertical. Horizontal welds will weaken the column.
That being said, I was going to tack a couple of bolts to my ROPS when I get around to making a light bracket so I can remove it if needed. I would be leary of altering the shape and design.

DocHeb · Jan 21, 2005

As mentioned by others, cut out the bottom of the header. Most headers are made of 2x12 dimensional stock, and you could add on a couple 2x8 to the inside top of the header, then spend an afternoon with a sawzall to cut out the bottom of the header. You wouldn't even need to go all the ways across the header, maybe just a nice curved arch that would allow the tractor into the garage.

PineRidge · Jan 21, 2005

Would almost bet that if you took a cut down ROPS to a welding shop that they would refuse to weld it on a liability issue. I for one wouldn't be willing to risk a welding business that I owned for a few bucks. But then again we don't own a welding business either.

TC-40D SS web pictures click here

JerryT · Jan 21, 2005

I had the same problem with my steel shed and my JD 4400. My son and I put in a 1ft taller rollup door. Took about 4 hours. As I recall it cost about $300.00.

RalphVa · Jan 21, 2005

Have you exained your garage doors?

First thing I did in looking at tractors was to measure the height of the fixed ROPS. Got home, and found the garage doors weren't high enough. However, there were 2 more bolt holes to go where they were attached to the opener. I just moved them up the 2 bolt holes. Still, when I got the tractor, I found the ROPS bumped, but went under, the handle on the door. I just drilled a couple new holes and moved the handle.

Went into the downstairs double doors no problem. That's actually where I keep it now, as the Gravely won't climb that hill down up from the basement in inclement weather.

Ralph

rswyan · Jan 22, 2005

( My son and I put in a 1ft taller rollup door. Took about 4 hours. As I recall it cost about $300.00. )

When you say you put in a 1' taller rollup door - are you talking about the kind of door that rolls up in a roll, that is often used on commercial buildings - or just a standard garage-type with four panels ?

How big was the door and where did you purchase it ? ($300 sounds like a great price)