rotary cutter 1st time to use

chabat124 · Jun 5, 2006

Well, today was my 1st time to mow. I mowed a quarter acre lot that has grown up with bahaia (sp?) and some johnson grass.

I was mowing with my '52 Ferguson TO30. I fabbed up some check chains (limiter) to control the height of the deck. They worked Great! I had repaired the yoke for the tail wheel but the back was set too low and was dragging. So After a few near stalls, I reset the tail wheel height and finished the job. Now I think the back is a little too high, but I can adjust it again for next time.

Observations: I had to cut half width in bahaia as it is tough to cut, but that was when the back of the RC was dragging too.

On the near stalls, I clutched and the motor was just putting acting like it was going to stall. The only way I could get it going again was to put the throttle lever to full and the motor would rev up after 10-15 seconds (all with the clutch in). Then I would throttle back down some. There is a LONG delay in the throttle response. What I mean is you adjust the engine down from a high rpm and it takes a while before it actually comes back down.

I don't see how the brush hog could cut anything more than grass ie small trees as it bogged quite a bit in bahaia. Maybe I was just cutting too low.

I am somewhat concerned about the throttle response when it lugs. I am not sure if the tractor is having a problem or it is just user error.

I am still totally new to all of this. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

chabat124 · Jun 5, 2006

Well, today was my 1st time to mow. I mowed a quarter acre lot that has grown up with bahaia (sp?) and some johnson grass.

I was mowing with my '52 Ferguson TO30. I fabbed up some check chains (limiter) to control the height of the deck. They worked Great! I had repaired the yoke for the tail wheel but the back was set too low and was dragging. So After a few near stalls, I reset the tail wheel height and finished the job. Now I think the back is a little too high, but I can adjust it again for next time.

Observations: I had to cut half width in bahaia as it is tough to cut, but that was when the back of the RC was dragging too.

On the near stalls, I clutched and the motor was just putting acting like it was going to stall. The only way I could get it going again was to put the throttle lever to full and the motor would rev up after 10-15 seconds (all with the clutch in). Then I would throttle back down some. There is a LONG delay in the throttle response. What I mean is you adjust the engine down from a high rpm and it takes a while before it actually comes back down.

I don't see how the brush hog could cut anything more than grass ie small trees as it bogged quite a bit in bahaia. Maybe I was just cutting too low.

I am somewhat concerned about the throttle response when it lugs. I am not sure if the tractor is having a problem or it is just user error.

I am still totally new to all of this. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Highbeam · Jun 5, 2006

With the back end of the cutter low you are actually cutting every blade of grass twice as you move. Once with the high blades in front and then again lower with the rear end and the low swing of the blades. Setting your mower slightly high in the rear means half as much cutting and half as much load on your tractor.

Super thick dense grass and high ground speeds takes more tractor power than slowly chomping up brush. It's a totally different method.

Glad the chains worked.

Also, cutting tall grass down real short means the clippings get cut and recut, almost mulched while stirring around under the mower deck. Cutting too short will clog up the works and put extra strain on the tractor.

Highbeam · Jun 5, 2006

With the back end of the cutter low you are actually cutting every blade of grass twice as you move. Once with the high blades in front and then again lower with the rear end and the low swing of the blades. Setting your mower slightly high in the rear means half as much cutting and half as much load on your tractor.

Super thick dense grass and high ground speeds takes more tractor power than slowly chomping up brush. It's a totally different method.

Glad the chains worked.

Also, cutting tall grass down real short means the clippings get cut and recut, almost mulched while stirring around under the mower deck. Cutting too short will clog up the works and put extra strain on the tractor.

chabat124 · Jun 6, 2006

Check Chains pic 2 - top attachment.

chabat124 · Jun 6, 2006

Check Chains pic 2 - top attachment.

chabat124 · Jun 6, 2006

Check Chains pic showing how I attached it to the rotary cutter. This way I can adjust the height by moving up a link on the chain. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

chabat124 · Jun 6, 2006

Check Chains pic showing how I attached it to the rotary cutter. This way I can adjust the height by moving up a link on the chain. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

DaryleD · Jun 6, 2006

I am going to take a couple guesses on your throttle delay problem. First, possible issue with your clutch needing adjustment/replacement? Second, I'm thinking that a possible throttle linkage bind or maybe just needing oil to help lubricate? You've probably already thought of this stuff, but I figured that I would give you my two cents. Hope you're able to figure it out.
daryle.

DaryleD · Jun 6, 2006

I am going to take a couple guesses on your throttle delay problem. First, possible issue with your clutch needing adjustment/replacement? Second, I'm thinking that a possible throttle linkage bind or maybe just needing oil to help lubricate? You've probably already thought of this stuff, but I figured that I would give you my two cents. Hope you're able to figure it out.
daryle.

joerocker · Jun 6, 2006

Remember...you have a 2-stage clutch!

If you just pushed the clutch in enough to stop the tractor moving, the PTO was still engaged. If the RC was clogged with grass there was still too much friction to run without bogging. Push the clutch in all the way in next time and see if the response is better.

Raise it up and make two passes next time or just cut half a width to make it easier to cut.

joerocker · Jun 6, 2006

Remember...you have a 2-stage clutch!

If you just pushed the clutch in enough to stop the tractor moving, the PTO was still engaged. If the RC was clogged with grass there was still too much friction to run without bogging. Push the clutch in all the way in next time and see if the response is better.

Raise it up and make two passes next time or just cut half a width to make it easier to cut.

Farmwithjunk · Jun 6, 2006

( Remember...you have a 2-stage clutch!

If you just pushed the clutch in enough to stop the tractor moving, the PTO was still engaged. If the RC was clogged with grass there was still too much friction to run without bogging. Push the clutch in all the way in next time and see if the response is better.

No 2-stage clutch on that model Fergie. No live power for a few more years.

(It should be using an over-riding clutch though)

Raise it up and make two passes next time or just cut half a width to make it easier to cut. )

Farmwithjunk · Jun 6, 2006

( Remember...you have a 2-stage clutch!

If you just pushed the clutch in enough to stop the tractor moving, the PTO was still engaged. If the RC was clogged with grass there was still too much friction to run without bogging. Push the clutch in all the way in next time and see if the response is better.

No 2-stage clutch on that model Fergie. No live power for a few more years.

(It should be using an over-riding clutch though)

Raise it up and make two passes next time or just cut half a width to make it easier to cut. )

Soundguy · Jun 6, 2006

On the bogging issue, I'm gonna guess your governor is worn a bit. Also... you might play with your carn main screw.. enrich about 1/4 turn and see if that helps any. Does it have good spark? ( does a hair of choke help it any when it bogs? If it does.. check spark or mainjet.. )

Soundguy

Soundguy · Jun 6, 2006

On the bogging issue, I'm gonna guess your governor is worn a bit. Also... you might play with your carn main screw.. enrich about 1/4 turn and see if that helps any. Does it have good spark? ( does a hair of choke help it any when it bogs? If it does.. check spark or mainjet.. )

Soundguy

AndyG · Jun 6, 2006

I've done bushhogging with both old and new tractors and I have always found thick grass (fescue in this area) pulls much harder than brush so don't be afraid to try mowing bigger stuff. The others are right about having the mower level or slightly lower in the front. It sounds like you need to fix the governor on that tractor it is not responding properly if it is slow to return to the set speed. When I read the post you mentioned that you moved the lever to full throttle. Why wasn't it at full to start with? Lugging the engine at lower RPM will do poor work, use more gas, and cause excessive wear. I recommend that you fix your governor, set it at the factory recommended RPM and use the tractor at that governed RPM. The factory established the governend speed where it did because this is speed that your tractor's engine will be happiest. I've run old tractors with a sloppy governor and they can be very frustrating. I'll give you one more tip. When you do have to stop to let the old Fergie catch her breath lift the mower or pull out into an area that has already been mowed. When you leave the mower down it is still trying to cut the grass under it which makes it hard for the engine to speed back up!

AndyG · Jun 6, 2006

I've done bushhogging with both old and new tractors and I have always found thick grass (fescue in this area) pulls much harder than brush so don't be afraid to try mowing bigger stuff. The others are right about having the mower level or slightly lower in the front. It sounds like you need to fix the governor on that tractor it is not responding properly if it is slow to return to the set speed. When I read the post you mentioned that you moved the lever to full throttle. Why wasn't it at full to start with? Lugging the engine at lower RPM will do poor work, use more gas, and cause excessive wear. I recommend that you fix your governor, set it at the factory recommended RPM and use the tractor at that governed RPM. The factory established the governend speed where it did because this is speed that your tractor's engine will be happiest. I've run old tractors with a sloppy governor and they can be very frustrating. I'll give you one more tip. When you do have to stop to let the old Fergie catch her breath lift the mower or pull out into an area that has already been mowed. When you leave the mower down it is still trying to cut the grass under it which makes it hard for the engine to speed back up!

greg_g · Jun 6, 2006

( Remember...you have a 2-stage clutch!)

I don't think so. Never owned one myself, so we'd actually need another TO30 owner to say whether or not I'm guessing correctly. But I believe a single stage clutch could explain this whole issue. The slow spinning up is because the engine has to overcome the weight of the blades while bringing itself up to speed. Once spinning, there's not enough compression for the engine itself to slow down the blade rotation. It's actually the slowing of the RC blades that in turn permits the engine RPMs to drop. It's also why many TO30 owners report using over-running clutch attachments on their PTOs.

//greg//

greg_g · Jun 6, 2006

( Remember...you have a 2-stage clutch!)

I don't think so. Never owned one myself, so we'd actually need another TO30 owner to say whether or not I'm guessing correctly. But I believe a single stage clutch could explain this whole issue. The slow spinning up is because the engine has to overcome the weight of the blades while bringing itself up to speed. Once spinning, there's not enough compression for the engine itself to slow down the blade rotation. It's actually the slowing of the RC blades that in turn permits the engine RPMs to drop. It's also why many TO30 owners report using over-running clutch attachments on their PTOs.

//greg//