Rotary Cutter Rotary Cutter Setup

[deere5105]

Sounds about like the way I do my MX6. I think some side play acts sorta like a shock absorber when you hit the unexpected, and you will. I try to set the top link to get the max float. If I want to increase the lift for transport on a road I just turn the top link to raise the back of the mower. I put the lower attatchment arms pins in the "float" position on my Kubota. It wiggles lots but so far so good.

How sharp did you get the blades? Here I cut so much stuff that I want to leave "frizzed" that I like the blades pretty dull. Did you get them flat out sharp? What does a one inch tree look like cut with a very sharp bushhog blade?

I was able to see some of the factory angle still left on the blades. My mower is 2004 model and I am certain this is the first time they have been off to be sharpened. I was able to match the factory angle and grind them down until I had an approximately 3/8" to 1/2" flat edge. I did not sharpen them to a point. I have often thought this was preferred for the very reason you stated above. Although after giving it some thought I am not certain a rotary cutter could cut a point on a smal tree since there is no downward cutting motion??

 

[bilrus61]

Since the tree would be bent over I can see where a sharp blade would cut it level and sharp then the "stump" would snap back up and be a sharp stake. Not to hijack your thread but I wonder if even a sharp cutter actually will cut a small tree as I described above. Sharp blades would be a help I would think for grass/weeds. Would let you go faster with less horsepower.

 

[deere5105]

Since the tree would be bent over I can see where a sharp blade would cut it level and sharp then the "stump" would snap back up and be a sharp stake. Not to hijack your thread but I wonder if even a sharp cutter actually will cut a small tree as I described above. Sharp blades would be a help I would think for grass/weeds. Would let you go faster with less horsepower.

For some reason I had not considered the object cut being bent over at angle. Good point. To my knowledge, mine has never been sharp enough to have that issue. Most of what I mow we ride fourwheelers on and I think I would have noticed if there were sharp objects pointing up. I did however notice a difference in engine loading when in thick high grass, as you mentioned above. We are about to mow probably 15 to 20 acres of mostly grass. That was my reason for wanting to sharpen them. Makes cutting easier, saves on fuel, time and gives better cut.

 

[deere5105]

Put in about 15 hours mowing this weekend. Took a couple pictures of what one of the food plots I was cutting looked like. Most of the food plots had 3'-4' tall grass and also cut about 5 acres of 2'-3' tall bahia. I have read several posts lately about rotary sizing. I am running a JD 5303 with around 56 HP at PTO with a 6' JD MX6 mower. On several occasions I could tell the tractor was bogging and even had the clutch slip. I was running approximately 5 mph in these conditions. I am certain slowing down would have been a little easier mowing, but I was needing to get done.

 

[Mistyridgefarm]

I'm not certain but I think the sway chains are adjusted tight when the implement is raised. They will loosen a bit when you lower it down. The implement will not sway when raised but have a fee inches of play when near the ground.

 

[bilrus61]

Hey I notice you took off your rear chains. What difference in the quality of the cut could you tell?

I've noticed also that my MX6 makes my tractor grunt in heavy grass (44 PTO hp). I've lowered the rear wheel (which is raising the mower) one hole lower than you have yours and it is like I gave my tractor about 5 more horsepower. You can still get a great low cut by putting the front low with your hitch control. Try that set up and I think you'll be pleased with the results. Hight of cut will be determined by your three point hitch. It gives the mower more of a high back to low front angle to cut the grass and I'll never go back to that hole that it came set up in. I would sure like to see the Deere engineers explain the other holes that would let the mower ride lower. On mine the rear wheel would be hanging the air on the last three holes.

 

[deere5105]

Hey I notice you took off your rear chains. What difference in the quality of the cut could you tell?

I've noticed also that my MX6 makes my tractor grunt in heavy grass (44 PTO hp). I've lowered the rear wheel (which is raising the mower) one hole lower than you have yours and it is like I gave my tractor about 5 more horsepower. You can still get a great low cut by putting the front low with your hitch control. Try that set up and I think you'll be pleased with the results. Hight of cut will be determined by your three point hitch. It gives the mower more of a high back to low front angle to cut the grass and I'll never go back to that hole that it came set up in. I would sure like to see the Deere engineers explain the other holes that would let the mower ride lower. On mine the rear wheel would be hanging the air on the last three holes.

I actually didn't remove the chains, but never had them. I bought the cutter with my first tractor and they were not on it then. After reading the post about flail mowers vs. rotaries, I wish I had them. So far have not had anything bad happen with slinging debris. The cutter is left set up just how I received it. I may look into moving the rear wheel position to see how it does. I still have a bit more mowing to do. Thanks for the suggestion.