Rotary cutter tailwheel digging in

[Z-Michigan]

I have been using my rotary cutter (LX6) for only a couple months now. On sod or areas that have not been disturbed in over a year it works fine. However, on areas that have a lot of bare dirt or were planted with grass this year, the tailwheel often digs in and rips up the dirt; sometimes it also rides at an angle from the direction of travel in the process. I have greased the tailwheel bearings and pivot fitting and both operate smoothly. The tailwheel is the solid hard rubber type (not laminated rubber pieces). This happens with any angle adjustment of the cutter deck that leaves the tailwheel even slightly touching the ground. Any suggestions for how to stop this scalping?

 

[Dougster]

I have been using my rotary cutter (LX6) for only a couple months now. On sod or areas that have not been disturbed in over a year it works fine. However, on areas that have a lot of bare dirt or were planted with grass this year, the tailwheel often digs in and rips up the dirt; sometimes it also rides at an angle from the direction of travel in the process. I have greased the tailwheel bearings and pivot fitting and both operate smoothly. The tailwheel is the solid hard rubber type (not laminated rubber pieces). This happens with any angle adjustment of the cutter deck that leaves the tailwheel even slightly touching the ground. Any suggestions for how to stop this scalping?

This is exactly the reason I am seeking a rotary cutter with two wheels... although for all I know I could merely be doubling the problem.

Dougster

 

[daTeacha]

Hmmm. Never had the problem. About all I can think of is that the pivot for the wheel is angled too far from vertical. Whenever you move it, it puts a side load on the bearing shaft and it seizes. Try adjusting the height of the wheel and the amount of lift in the front so the shaft the wheel hangs from is nearly vertical when it's at cutting height.

It shouldn't do that, of course. I would also check the bearing shaft and the race it runs in for rough spots that could be causing it hang up. Take it apart, degrease everything, and check it out. The fit should be fairly close without a lot of lateral play between the shaft and the race, and it should turn smoothly all the way around even if you push sideways on the wheel.

 

[john_bud]

Go back to the start. Get a level and a tape measure. Set the front to be about 5" from the ground to the blades. (Mark the blade level on the side of the unit). Set a level on the cutter and while the tractor is on dead level ground, adjust the arms to level the cutter. Adjust the rear height so the rear blade height is 6". (A 1 - 1.5" rake is best for clean and easy cutting - the absolute heights are what ever you want).

Adjust the top link so it is just starting to get under tension with the tractor level and the cutter adjusted. Then extend the top link 3-4" so the cutter can pivot without jaring the tractor or lifting the rear wheel.


At this point the cutter should be set up correctly. The rear wheel axle should be dead vertical or better yet, raked top forward a few degrees. It should be dead vertical side to side.

That should run true when set up that way.

jb

 

[John_Mc]

I have a Woods BB60 brush cutter. I've found that the pivot on my tailwheel needs to be greased VERY frequently (sometimes it seems almost every time I mow). I know you said you greased it, but was it done recently? Mine will pivot freely with no grease in it when it's not under any load. As soon as the weight of the mower deck is on it, it binds up unless it's been greased pretty recently.

If you are sure it has been greased recently, and it pivots freely when lifted up in the air, I'd look for burrs or rough spots that could be hanging it up under load. first place id suspect if it works with no load, but not with a load is the area where the top of the collar on the pivot shaft meets the bottom of the framework. these two areas might not even touch each other when up in the air, but support the weight when under load.

On my Woods BB60, the pivot shaft is vertical left and right, but it is NOT vertical fore and aft: the top is angled forward noticably (roughly 5 or 10 degrees?).

John Mc

 

[Shirleyshusband]

Go back to the start. Get a level and a tape measure. Set the front to be about 5" from the ground to the blades. (Mark the blade level on the side of the unit). Set a level on the cutter and while the tractor is on dead level ground, adjust the arms to level the cutter. Adjust the rear height so the rear blade height is 6". (A 1 - 1.5" rake is best for clean and easy cutting - the absolute heights are what ever you want).

Adjust the top link so it is just starting to get under tension with the tractor level and the cutter adjusted. Then extend the top link 3-4" so the cutter can pivot without jaring the tractor or lifting the rear wheel.


At this point the cutter should be set up correctly. The rear wheel axle should be dead vertical or better yet, raked top forward a few degrees. It should be dead vertical side to side.

That should run true when set up that way.

jb

I was having the same problem and THIS weekend I finally took the time (after a years use) to do just what Johnb says. It worked great, no more drag marks.

 

[john_bud]

I was having the same problem and THIS weekend I finally took the time (after a years use) to do just what Johnb says. It worked great, no more drag marks.

Advice here is nearly as good as the manual and easier to read! Glad to hear you have your cutter running true now.

jb

 

[Soundguy]

Is there excessive play in the shaft/OD of the sleave the axle/yoke rotates in.. if so.. it could be cocking to the side and causing this problem.. Might be a worn bushing.. etc..

Soundguy

 

[Ford850]

I noticed the tail wheel on mine was not turning quite as free as it should. I greased it the other day and mowed again, but it was still sluggish. Then I remembered when I greased it that grease came out the top of the shaft right away but never did come out the bottom. I think mine is gummed up toward the bottom where it takes all the weight as mentioned above. I plan to drop the wheel assemble, clean the shaft, reassemble and lube.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I noticed the tail wheel on mine was not turning quite as free as it should. I greased it the other day and mowed again, but it was still sluggish. Then I remembered when I greased it that grease came out the top of the shaft right away but never did come out the bottom. I think mine is gummed up toward the bottom where it takes all the weight as mentioned above. I plan to drop the wheel assemble, clean the shaft, reassemble and lube.

MAN! You read my mind! I had the same experience with a couple mowers in the past few days. I pulled the tailwheel off my Bush Hog 6'er and found the top well greased and the bottom rusty and dry.

 

[NoMo]

I wonder if there could have been more than your blade pan damaged when the cutter was delivered. My LX6 tracks straight with the only ground "damage" coming from the skids when I'm cutting the field pretty short.

Of course, make sure you follow the setup instructions for the cutter first:
http://manuals.deere.com/omview/OMW51358_19/

 

[Z-Michigan]

Appreciate all the replies. I was playing with it tonight and tried all sorts of toplink adjustments relative to the mowing height to make sure things were properly set up. I'm pretty confident that they are. Then I tried mowing two areas:
1) old pasture, hard packed dirt, weeds and grass - no problems with tailwheel scalping, except in a few spots that are mostly bare
2) Grass field planted about 8 weeks ago, soil had been chiseled and disced before planting, then dragged with a chain harrow after planting. Still getting lots of scalping - nearly constant, in fact, and the tailwheel is practically working as a mini-disc! No good. I should mention that we've had no rain in about 10 days, that this soil is sandy loam, and that despite the happy grass the soil it's in is fairly loose and fluffy still.

I came up with the idea to shorten the toplink until I could mow at a reasonable height (mostly to hit weeds) with the tailwheel completely off the ground. Sounds kludgy, but it seemed to work pretty well. I did about an acre this way with no scalping.

I think I have it setup right (with the toplink longer for normal mowing with the wheel on the ground) - I think the problem is really soft dirt + the older style tailwheel that is too narrow for the weight put on it. I think a laminated wider wheel would be better, though I don't know if it would completely solve the problem. Comments?