Rotary Cutter Rotary cutters, material discharge

[piller]

I'm close to purchasing a 70 HP pto tractor and want to get a bush hog for it, mostly to maintain pastures, and would appreciate any bush hog recommendations.
We hired a guy to bush hog for us this fall and when he was done the cut grass was not evenly distributed, the material was sort of left in rows. Is this normal for rotary cutters, can I get a bush hog that will evenly distribute the cuttings?

 

[greg_g]

I Is this normal for rotary cutters, can I get a bush hog that will evenly distribute the cuttings?

There may be one out there, but every rotary cutter I've used does that. That's why they're not called finish mowers. Oh wait, that name's already taken. The solution - albeit pricey - may be a flail mower

//greg//

 

[RickB]

Cutters with rear chain shielding can distribute material better than machines with rigid rear shielding. Grass wet from dew or rain will clump or windrow worse than dry grass. Tall grass, mowed once or even twice a season, will clump and windrow under most conditions. Don't mind greg, he hasn't learned not to be rude and condescending.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I'm close to purchasing a 70 HP pto tractor and want to get a bush hog for it, mostly to maintain pastures, and would appreciate any bush hog recommendations.
We hired a guy to bush hog for us this fall and when he was done the cut grass was not evenly distributed, the material was sort of left in rows. Is this normal for rotary cutters, can I get a bush hog that will evenly distribute the cuttings?

Some mowers are far better than others. Also, mowing practices will effect results. I have a Bush Hog 286 (as previously mentioned in this thread) that I use to mow an 8 acre parcel of land next to my house. It's essentially a big yard. I've found by circling the field in a counter-clockwise pattern there's no windrowing. Go clockwise and the results aren't so good. Also, this is another time when bush hog blades just slightly sharper than "normal" will net better results. The clippings get cut up more effectively, which aids in scattering them.

Sharpened blades aren't the hot set-up for mowing in heavy brush and saplings. They leave sharp, solid staubs that can puncture a tire. Slightly blunted blades shatter the staubs where they're far less harmful. However, if you're using a mower to clip pastures and don't use it to clear overgrown ground, sharpening the blades to an ALMOST "lawn mower blade" edge is a great way to get a good quality of finished cut with a bush hog.

 

[greg_g]

Cutters with rear chain shielding can distribute material better than machines with rigid rear shielding. ....Don't mind greg, he hasn't learned not to be rude and condescending.

FWIW Rick, one of my two rotary cutters was outfitted with a rear chain guard. I put up with the extra work of cleaning the brush out of it after each use, for the first year that is. Flying stones broke/bent links and distorted the dangling curtain to such a degree that the guard started to get tangled up in itself. This led to increasing difficulty in cleaning out the tangled trash. Eventually the rear discharge was effectively blocked off, leading to clumps just rolling out underneath. Long story short, that mower no longer has a chain guard installed. That said, I'll concede to varying degrees of quality in chain guards. Mine definitely fell on the low end.

And also FWIW, my attempts at online levity have occasionally been considered droll. And I do admit a proclivity toward dry humor. But relative to my actual intent here, I think rude and condescending might be somewhat misplaced.

//greg//

 

[intel]

When brush hogging the back end needs to be higher than the front at least an 1". Many people brush hog level, works better and maybe uses less fuel it back end is up a little.

 

[RickB]

FWIW Rick, one of my two rotary cutters was outfitted with a rear chain guard. I put up with the extra work of cleaning the brush out of it after each use, for the first year that is. Flying stones broke/bent links and distorted the dangling curtain to such a degree that the guard started to get tangled up in itself. This led to increasing difficulty in cleaning out the tangled trash. Eventually the rear discharge was effectively blocked off, leading to clumps just rolling out underneath. Long story short, that mower no longer has a chain guard installed. That said, I'll concede to varying degrees of quality in chain guards. Mine definitely fell on the low end.

And also FWIW, my attempts at online levity have occasionally been considered droll. And I do admit a proclivity toward dry humor. But relative to my actual intent here, I think rude and condescending might be somewhat misplaced.

//greg//

Quality and designs do vary, that's why I used the word CAN in my post.

When readers don't have the benefit of hearing inflection or seeing facilal expression, it's not difficult to get the impression someone is being a jerk when that's not the case. Sorry if I misread you.

 

[kthompson]

Think you will find the direction of cut to help as Farmingwithjunk suggested. Did you now that some rough cut mowers were design to leave what they cut in a windrow for hay? A flail mower should leave the clippings spread very well, even better than a side discharge finishing mower. Do realize a rough cut does not have the blade lift to throw clippings as most finishing mowers. On rough cut your concern is it THROWING stuff. I have not looked in a while but don't think a rough cut mower has near the tip speed as does a finish mower for these reasons.

If you are cutting the grass when dry (as wet has also been mentioned) often it would help with this.

As to Greg, only know him through his comments both here and at another site, have never seen anything I THOUGHT was rude from him and on some things have seen him to really be helpful and made the comment at the other site on how much it seems he knows on certain issues which I mean with the greatest respect.

 

[have_blue]

We hired a guy to bush hog for us this fall and when he was done the cut grass was not evenly distributed, the material was sort of left in rows. Is this normal for rotary cutters, can I get a bush hog that will evenly distribute the cuttings?

I hate windrows too, and try my best to minimize them. Of course windrows can be kept in check by mowing more often. It's not as wasteful as it sounds. It takes a lot of horsepower to mow tall grass, so it takes longer to get a nice result. Shorter grass requires less horsepower, so you can mow at a higher forward speed, and save time, fuel, and a little wear and tear.

One trick I have learned is to keep the blades very sharp. This enables you to cut cleanly with a reduced blade RPM. A reduced blade RPM allows you to cut the grass without cutting and re cutting it (shredding). I find that shredding grass is not only wasteful and hard on the equipment, but makes windrows that are more visible and longer-lasting than cleanly cut grass. YMMV because your bush hog and your grass are probably different from mine. I cut grass and light weeds, usually no more than knee high.

Merry Christmas to all!