Rotary Cutter Rotary Cutters

[jbrumberg]

To All:

For the past 21 years I have been "brush hogging" much of my property with a Ford 1100 and a Woods M 40-1. I really beat up the Woods over the years and finally replaced it with a Tebben TC96-40 Rotary Cutter for the past 2 years. The Woods was a "tank" but it was not user friendly and required expensive "Dealer Support" for repairs. The Tebben is much more user friendly (and I like some of its design characteristics) but it was a little on the "light weight" side of things. I have finally whined and grovelled my way through "she who must be obeyed" and have purchased a NH TC29DA. I would like the global community's take on what is available out there as to a rotary cutters that must ocassionally take out a relatively small poplar tree (1''-2").

 

[JerryG]

I personally like the Woods, but looks like you had some kind of problem with your last one. The blade quick change is almost enough reason to buy a Woods by it's self IMHO. What were the issues that you had with your M40-1?

 

[john_bud]

J,

The woods "Brush Bull" series should have solved all of your user friendly concerns. I think the BB60 may be what will work just fine for you.

I am a Brush Bull Bigot, just so you know. Mine has been put thru Heck and back - twice! and enjoyed the view... The blade retention is the industries best - according to a buddy that sells blades for cutters to the counties. And blades and gear oil have been the only thing it has gotten in 4 years of abuse---er--- work.

Things to evaluate in the purchase of a cutter.

1) Weight - more is better ---> up to the point of your tractor being able to handle it. Easier to knock down trees and munch them up. Also, thicker, stronger etc.

2) Size of the stump jumper. Bigger around and thicker metal are better. You want the biggest one possible as it will protect the unt better.

3) Blades. Thicker, wider, shorter. A short blade won't bend as easily as a long blade. Stiffness of a beam goes down as the cube of the lenth. So, a 24" long blade is 2x the length of a 12" blade --> and 8x easier to bend.

4) Blade retention. If there is a big A_s honking bolt and nut holding the blade in, it will be a bear and a half to get out when you need to change. (The woods uses a pin with a slot to hold the blade. The pin is held in place with a steel tab and a 3/8th bolt, accessable from the top opening. 3/8 or 1/2 inch ratchet is all you need to change it out.

5) Volume inside the cutter. A bigger deck is easier to run than a smaller deck as the trimmings don't clog it up so easily.

There are others dealing with wear items, but unless you move up to a medium duty unit they don't matter.

There are lots of great cutters out there, get a good one.

jb

 

[RalphVa]

Wow! That's a nice advert for Woods and the easy removal of the blades.

I actually had a fairly easy time removing the blades on my LX4 for the first time, after buying a 6' long pipe of pipe to go over my socket handle. My impact wrench good for 550 ft lb actually loosened one bolt. The other needed the 6' pipe on the socket handle. Putting back was easy with a couple of clamps to hold everything in place. All in all, it was easier than removing and replacing the single or double/crossed blades on my Gravely.

Ralph

 

[jbrumberg]

Jerry:
I had alot of difficulties with the gearbox seals. I did like the pin/clip setup for blade replacement. I will reconsider purchasing a newer model of Woods. Thanks- Jay

 

[jbrumberg]

John:
Thanks for the feedback. I agree with everything you said. Based on the information you provided I will reevaluate the newer Woods mower models. For all the problems I had with the gearbox seals, blade replacement was quite easy with the pin/clip system. I really did use/abuse the M40-1 on my seriously and chronically overgrown field- it did take out quite a few midsize poplars on a regular basis. Jay

 

[deerefan]

I buy Bushhog b/c of the parts availability. Good thing is my 4ft and 6ft have not needed any parts, just general maintenance. Woods is pretty good too. A buddy of mine had a 5ft Woods and it held up well.

 

[john_bud]

Yup, there are many good cutters on the market. While I am partial to one, there are others that are as good, maybe better. Local dealer support is a factor to consider, too.

You can check out many of the specs like weight on the net, but they don't typically list stump jumper size / construction. Now is a great time to look as all the dealers are getting stock in for spring green.

jb

 

[picker77]

I've run a Rhino SE-5 (60", about 630# with full chain guards, 45 HP gearbox) on my 30 HP 2600-lb tractor for 12 years now with no problems whatsoever. It just keeps cutting everything I stick it into, has been into some pretty gnarly stuff, including saplings. I've bogged down the tractor engine a few times in saplings, but I've never bent or broken anything. It's stout as heck. I also like its flexible top link setup and the big laminated-belting rear wheel, compared to some of the cheesy rear wheels I've seen on some others. Factory blade balancing job was pretty good, too. I tested it (accidentally) when I first got it by mowing at 1000 (yup, 1000) RPM for awhile by mistake. Other than a little noticeable gearbox whine compared to 540 RPM, the mower ran smooth as silk. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif My only problem with it was it's initial cost, which about 12 years ago was nearly $1200, but looking back now I believe it was worth every penny.

 

[Airmale]

You may be able to get the Woods brushbull color-matched if you ask.