Rotary decisions

PCNH · Mar 26, 2002

Ok. I've searched and read MANY posts on rotary cutters over the past few weeks. Although I now know more than I ever did about these machines, I'm still as much in the dark as ever. The only thing I've decided on is size, 5' for a NH 1725 (29 HP). I think it's coming down to the mighty $. Be frugal and hope for the best, or think "you get what you pay for" and possibly overkill. There's good arguements on both sides. I'll be cutting everything from grass to whatever diameter hardwood I dare try to tackle, not to mention the old stumps and rocks. I think I'm leaning towards "you get what you pay for", and "you can't take it with you"...

TerryinMD · Mar 26, 2002

PCNH,

Then try for something in the middle. Therer a plenty of choices. You need to go to all of the dealers, explain your needs, kick the tires, and compare. Get lots of pretty colored glossies to compare and contrast. Get some basic pricing information and, most importantly, get to know the dealer. If you don't feel comfortable with them, move on to the next.

Terry

rdln · Mar 26, 2002

Me thinks you'll be happy with a light duty 5 footer for under a thousand dollars.

I have beat the sheet out of my land pride light duty 6 footer and 5 pounds of welding rod and eight years later it is still going strong.

If you have any inkling that you might provide this service as a business I would step up to the $1500 range with safety chains and all.

Don't get hung up on deck thickness, there is nothing strong enough short of titanium that will stop a rock from denting and still be light enough for your tractor to lift it.

beenthere · Mar 26, 2002

I'll be cutting everything from grass to whatever diameter hardwood I dare try to tackle, not to mention the old stumps and rocks. 

I would suggest you get a stump jumper, on whatever size you decide on.

Bird · Mar 26, 2002

P.C., I had a 4' Bush Hog Squealer on my B7100 (rated for 1" stuff) and was amazed at the bigger stuff I cut without damage. Then when my cousin bought a new TC29D New Holland and it was delivered with a new 5' Squealer, the salesman delivered it and immediately set out to demonstrate right through the woods and timber; sounded terrible, but after he left I raised that thing up to check the blades, stump jumper, and bottom side and didn't find a bit of damage. And that's their light duty one.

BB_TX · Mar 27, 2002

Is that 29 hp engine or PTO?
I think you may be amazed at what these thing can do. I run a 6' Howse light duty behind my JD 950 (27 hp PTO). It cuts all but the tallest grass with ease. Tall, green, heavy grass only makes me slow down a little. I also occasionally get down by the creek and clear some of the growth. I have mowed over cedars that stand about 3' tall and 2" at the base with no problem. If I run over dry limbs on the ground, it really bangs and clangs but chops them up too. And I only paid $500 for the cutter new.
If you intend to mow a lot of pasture, you might consider the size further. Assuming a 1' overlap, a 6' cutter would give a nominal 5' cut; a 5' cutter would give a nominal 4' cut. Mowing 10 acres at avg. 4 mph would take 4.1 hours with 6 footer and 5.2 hours with a 5 footer. But then that takes away from seat time. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

MikePA · Mar 27, 2002

When using a 3ph rotary cutter (I just got a 5' Woods BrushBull), is it OK to back over/on top of saplings, brush you want to cut? There are some places I need to cut that;

(1) The only way I can get to them is back in.
For example, in front of our place there's a small drainage ditch. On one side of the ditch is a narrow patch of grass, then the road. On the other side of the ditch is a narrow patch of grass, then a fence. (I should take a picture), i.e., looking from above, left to right, Road--Grass--Shallow Ditch--Grass--Fence. Neither patch of grass is wide enough for the tractor. I can cut most of the grass next to the road by driving as far off the road as I dare, without tipping into the ditch. I think I can back in and lower the mower onto the other side.

(2) I'd rather not run over some of the brush with the tractor in order to mow them.

Bird · Mar 27, 2002

is it OK to back over/on top of saplings

Sure hope so, since most of us do it frequently./w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif Sometimes simply back over them; sometimes raise the mower with the 3-point, back slowly over them, and slowly lower the mower on them.

Anonymous Poster · Mar 27, 2002

...And I only paid $500 for the cutter new...

That's an outstanding price for a 6' rotary cutter... no matter who's brand... /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

JohnMiller3 · Mar 27, 2002

Here's an area I did about a week or two ago... with some 4 to 5" saplings now missing... You can see the ground "shredded material", and notice the picture background is the type of brush in this area I cleared...{trees backward... most small brush forward}

{see attachment}