Rotary Tiller - Opinions?

[Neophyte]

I'm about to pull the trigger on a used rotary tiller and I wanted your opinions on this model.

It's a HOWARD Rotovator HR7-50.
HOWARD HR 7 Series

I guess this is their lightest duty unit but it did not seem that light duty to me as compared to some others I have seen.

It's about 4 years old. It was being used behind a 24 HP tractor with 18 PTO HP. There is some rust on the unit but it seems to have been used lightly as the original tines still look OK. I don't think I will need to replace the tines any time soon. I will use it this season as is but I will probably paint it this winter (possibly JD Green). The gear oil looked OK but I will probably replace it prior to use.

What should I be aware of before purchasing this unit? Is there anything I need to check?

There doesn't appear to be an external chain adjustment. Is there an internal chain tensioner on this unit? Should I remove the chain cover and check it prior to use?

It has a slip clutch on it so I will need to make sure this is working properly prior to using it.

It was originally purchased from a local dealer who now sells Maschio. I had recently talked to a different dealer that made the same move from Howard to Maschio. He said he was very dissapointed that they had to make the move since he fealt that Howard was such a solid line. However, he said the prices began to skyrocket on the Howard units when they were bought by a Danish (or Canadian) company??? For what it's worth, he said he preferred the Howard to the Mascho.

The one thing I like about the Maschio, and others, is their offset mechanism seems to be much easier to use. It also maintains a straight driveline to the tiller regardless of the offset and allows for an iMatch (quick hitch). The Howard tiller is more difficult to offset, is limited to 5" according to their literature and has a skewed driveline while offset. I'm going to try to match it up to my iMatch but I'm not sure if I will have much luck with this in an offset configuration.

I was also worried that a 5" offset will not be enough to cover my tire track. I took some measurements and it seems it may cover it with only an inch to spare.

I will be using it to restore 2 to 4 acres of field back into lawn. I will be disc harrowing the field prior to using the tiller to make the tilling easier. After this is done, I will only be using it for a small garden and possibly a very small corn field.

 

[Jim_Fisher]

Neophyte,

I believe that this model is very similar to the model that Deere marketed as the 550.

Look for a chain tensioner adjustment coming through the front of the chain case about half way from the bottom, more or less opposite the fill plug.

I would make sure that the bearing on the end of the tiller opposite the chain drive is tight. Not the easiest spot to grease and might be tempting to overlook.

Get the dealer to mount it and run it for you. If he has a piece of ground that can be tilled, test it. If not, ask if you can take it home and try it before you buy.

FWIW, Howard has been considered the industry leader in tillers for many years.

 

[GaryE]

Neophyte,


I think you will be ok but, make sure the tiller has enough offset to at least cover your right rear wheel.

Happy tilling!

Gary

 

[Neophyte]

So I made the purchase today.

The gear oil level seemed to be too high in both the gear box and chain case. I pumped out the old oil and put the new oil to the proper level.

The grease fitting for the main bearing is very easy to access on the outside of the tiller. I greased this fitting as well as the fittings on the PTO shaft.

It turns out the PTO shaft was too short for my machine, with or without the iMatch. I borrowed one half of my RFM PTO shaft and it seemed to make up the difference. I may just save the $125 and continue to swap this half between the two.

I thought I was going to need to offset the tiller to cover the right rear tire track. However, after using the tiller with a 0 degree offset, it seems to cover both of the tire tracks OK.

The other plus is that it matches up to my iMatch. The top link could be a little lower but it still latches into the top hook of the iMatch securely. I may drill a new hole to bring it down a bit. If I choose to offset the tiller, I can easily make a bracket to still allow for the iMatch.

I think a part may be missing from the tailgate as it seems to come off every now and then. It's an easy fix.

I still need to service the slip clutch.

There is no external chain tensioner. This unit uses an internal spring for its chain tensioner. Should I remove the cover to check things out or should I leave them be until there is an issue?

I will try to post some pictures tomorrow.

 

[Jim_Fisher]

Neophyte,

>>The grease fitting for the main bearing is very easy to access on the outside of the tiller. I greased this fitting as well as the fittings on the PTO shaft.<<

Good deal! They may have improved the design. On mine, I have to lower the skid shoe in order to get to the fitting.


>>There is no external chain tensioner. This unit uses an internal spring for its chain tensioner. Should I remove the cover to check things out or should I leave them be until there is an issue?<<

I don't think that I would remove the cover unless there is an excessive amount of slop. Can you check the play by inserting a rod through the fill plug? You probably want to have no more than 3/8" deflection. You may just feel the spring give, too. Did the manual come with it? Might be worthwhile to email Howard and ask for a manual if you don't have one.

 

[Egon]

With the internal tensioner there is no need to remove the cover other than checking for the condition of the chain. So I'd just leave as is till the chain needs replacement. [Breaks]

I'd also forget the disc and start right out with the tiller. Go as slow and possible and overlap passes on the first tilling. Mowing any grass will also help. Tilling in different directions is also helpfull in getting the field lawn level/even/smooth.

 

[Neophyte]

I have posted some pictures of the tiller.

Jim, I checked with a former Howard dealer in the area and they didn't have any manuals. I e-mailed Howard about an owners and parts manual. If I don't hear from them this week, I will call them or check with some local Howard dealers. Would the manual tell me the proper way to service the slip clutch?

Egon, I was thinking about using the disc harrow prior to the tilling for a couple of reasons.
1. I have some hard clay in the area and I would rather the disc harrow take the initial beating.
2. The disc harrow seems to unearth the big rocks so I can remove them before tilling.

Of course, there are certain areas where I would skip the disc harrow. For repeat locations, such as a garden, I would skip the disc harrow.

As I mentioned, my tailgate keeps coming off. From looking at the pictures, do you see anything missing? Should the tailgate pipe have an end cap of some sort?

Please note that in the "Tiller_Right" picture the tailgate pipe flange is on the wrong side. I purposely moved this flange temporarily to prevent the tailgate from falling off.

From looking at the pictures, do you think the tines need to be replaced?
.

 

[Egon]

At present I have problems opening picture's on TBN.

I'd replace tines as they break. Just have a few on hand, both right and left. They are costly.

As for the tailgate one could always drill holes and puy in some U clamps. Hard to say without seeing the picture.

 

[Jim_Fisher]

I have posted some pictures of the tiller.

Jim, I checked with a former Howard dealer in the area and they didn't have any manuals. I e-mailed Howard about an owners and parts manual. If I don't hear from them this week, I will call them or check with some local Howard dealers. Would the manual tell me the proper way to service the slip clutch?

Egon, I was thinking about using the disc harrow prior to the tilling for a couple of reasons.
1. I have some hard clay in the area and I would rather the disc harrow take the initial beating.
2. The disc harrow seems to unearth the big rocks so I can remove them before tilling.

Of course, there are certain areas where I would skip the disc harrow. For repeat locations, such as a garden, I would skip the disc harrow.

As I mentioned, my tailgate keeps coming off. From looking at the pictures, do you see anything missing? Should the tailgate pipe have an end cap of some sort?

Please note that in the "Tiller_Right" picture the tailgate pipe flange is on the wrong side. I purposely moved this flange temporarily to prevent the tailgate from falling off.

From looking at the pictures, do you think the tines need to be replaced?
.

Neophyte,

I think that I would see about getting a longer pipe to hinge the rear shield. You could cap it or drill it and pin both ends.

The tines don't appear to have all that much wear. (Egon, I know that you can't see the picture, but the tines appear to have almost all of the factory ground cutting edge.) Just a little bit of rounding on the outside edge. I don't think that I'd worry about them for now.

As for the slip clutch, you need to identify which type you have and determine how to back it off to make sure the plates are free.

If it is a Walterscheid, you will observe that the adjusting nuts are backed off all the way to the end of the staked studs. Tighten the nuts to cage the spring and the clutch should slip when you turn it by hand.

Otherwise, there will be a series of adjustment bolts that are tightened evenly to set the tension. Measure the current spacing between the plates and loosen the bolts. Ensure that the clutch will slip and retighten the bolts to obtain the measured spacing.

If you need more information, there are a number of threads on this board that describe the process of maintaining a slip clutch.

 

[Neophyte]

Thanks for the help.

I think I will add a piece of pipe to the tailgate pipe to prevent it from slipping out of the hole. I will drill and tap the pipe extension in place so I can easily remove the tailgate in the future.

I was also thinking I could slide an entire length of slightly smaller pipe through the tailgate pipe, drill holes on either end and use cotter pins to secure it.

I checked the price of tines before the purchase. I have seen them as low as $5 each in quantity and as high as $12 each. I know I can get tines for the Howard HR series from the following company for $8.90 each.

"L" Tines for Howard HR Series

I noticed that they offer "L" blades and "C" blades.

"C" Tines for Howard HR Series

Why would you use one tine over the other? What is the advantage of each?

FWIW, I just noticed today that a local equipment rental company uses the same exact model tiller for their rentals.

 

[Sharp_Ranch]

Congratulations on your new tiller. I have a 6' Howard Rotovator 300 behind my JD 4320 and it does a good job.

One comment: You said the rear trailing board might have a missing part and can come off. That could be a major problem for you if left uncorrected. I know, because I had that happen to me last fall when the trailing board fed itself halfway thru the tines of the tiller before the tractor's PTO shut down after sensing the overload (see picture attached). The cause of the problem was due to the dealer forgetting to install the rear side guards onto the implement which keep the trailing board in its proper lateral position and from coming off its mount. It was a major diassembly task for the dealer to remove the jammed board (but covered by warranty) and the Howard worked fine thereafter.

 

[Neophyte]

OUCH!

Could you post a picture of the rear side guards that you are talking about? I'm trying to figure out what is missing from mine.

It did come off a few times while tilling but it did not manage to feed itself through ... luckily.

 

[Sharp_Ranch]

The attached photo is not my tiller, but it shows the rear side guards installed on both sides of the trailing board. The side guards are both for safety from kicking out rocks and debris as well as containing the position of the trailing board. Mine came off when I did a turn around in the field causing the board to shift sideways off its bar mount and then get fed into the tines. After this happened I re-read the owner's manual because I couldn't figure out why Howard would have designed the board mounting system so poorly, but when I studied the pictures in the manual I eventually figured out that the side guards had not ever been installed.

 

[Egon]

I was also thinking I could slide an entire length of slightly smaller pipe through the tailgate pipe, drill holes on either end and use cotter pins to secure it.

At last I have seen the pictures. Your pipe solution would work well. Probably the best/fastest/easiest solution.

Do not worry abou running with the tailflap in the up position if you are in an area with lots of fist sized rocks. Flap up lets the rocks go out the back and not bounce back in and jam between the tines and tiller body.

 

[Captinjack]

Your blades actually look just like mine that I just replaced about 10 operating hours ago. No problema there.

I was sent an original manual for free by the distributor that I bought my tines from at a very reasonable price. That's after spending $20 for a manual on e-bay that was not the up to date manual for my actual machine. Live and learn, but I was in a hurry for a change.

My rotor bearing opposite the drive end failed catastrophically and the bearing is no longer made........unobtanium. Howard recommended installing a standard 4 bolt 1 1/2" pillow block bearing and making minor mounting mods. This worked well and the bearing cost less than $30 with the Howard OEM bearing at $85. The new bearing is also much stronger than the original.

I've used my tiller on several acres of mountain ground that has never been turned and it did an amazing job. The rock flew and the roots were just ripped up so you probably won't have much problems with yours.

After tilling, I towed a bedspring over everything and it really smoothed out the high and low spots.

 

[Neophyte]

So far I'm very happy with the tillers performance and, surprisingly, the 50" width seems to cover my tracks OK. With that said, I'm still thinking that I should have purchased something larger. If I can find a deal on a used 60", I may purchase it and sell this one.

I saw a 5' Kuhn for sale used. Does Kuhn make a quality tiller?

 

[GaryE]

Neophyte,

I purchased a 60” Kuhn last spring. So far it has worked just fine. It seems to be very well built and except for a bolt the dealer cross threaded, it has been trouble free.

Gary

 

[Buster57]

Your Howard is nearly identical to my Agric.
There are two different types of tines because there is a right hand and a left hand version.
Call Mark at CCM and he can shoot you a copy of the manual.