Rotary tiller questions

[bdog]

My property has zero rocks. How large of a tiller can I run effectively with 63 PTO HP?

How much area can you practically use these things on? I mean I guess it kind of boils down to how much time you have but with all the moving parts I would assume after so many acres there would need to be significant repairs and it likely isn’t cheap.

I have used quite a few discs over the years and have been largely underwhelmed with them behind smaller tractors. Not enough weight to dig in and not enough horsepower to pull something like an offset that will. I think last time I used a small tandem I had to make 4-5 passes before the ground was suitable to plant.

What I am looking at doing is making food plots mostly 2-5 acres each but totaling maybe 15-20 acres. Is this too much to ask of a tiller? Will I be wearing it out every year?

 

[nybirdman]

I purchased my Bush-Hog branded tiller in 2004;it has been run on 10-20 acres behind three different tractors.It finally broke late last year(chain);I have plenty of rocks for sure.
I Make sure the slip clutch is working and leave the discharge flap wide open.A lot quicker than multiple passes with a disc(I have one).
I also have a spring tooth cultivator;no moving parts and does a decent job on previously worked ground.

 

[3gunr]

I use an old 6 ft yanmar tiller on a 32 pto hp tractor with no trouble, No rocks though, I would think a 7 ft tiller should be no problem. Look at kapper outdoors . he has a 7ft rhino tiller that has an adjustable gearbox for different tine speeds.

 

[bdog]

How much have you used it? I am trying to determine if they are made for gardens and yards and stuff or if they are they are made to do 20 acres a year and have a reasonable service life.

 

[LD1]

You can probably run a 10' tiller if they even make them that big.

But tillers are slow. And one that big will be expensive.

I'd find a 12' transport disc. Pull to at 4-5 mph and even if it takes 3 passes it will me faster than a 10' tiller at 1-1.5 mph

 

[CoyPatton]

There is an old formula for calculating size of implements.
It is 4-6 hp per foot width of the implement. (I will be 60 in days now, and I have not heard this used in years except by those usually older than me) This formula was use by my grandfather and his kids (including my dad) ad they transition sway from mostly mules and they kept it around even much later.
It was explained a few different ways. One was engine HP vs PTO HP. If looking at PTO you needed less HP/ft. The other was what type of implement. I do not recall any PTO tillers around when I was a youngster, but they rated implements by the ground engagement. So a tiller would be at the higher HP requires.

Now my personal experience.
I have a small compact 20 HP at the PTO. Size of tractor was important due to paths maintained through trees. A previously larger tractor would not fit in some places, resulting in having to use weed eaters and chain saws.
At any rated I wanted to put in a larger garden and do to some physical injuries, I could not use the regular tiller. Money for a good walk behind and a PTO driven at the time were not s huge spread in my opinion and since prolonged walking and standing were limited I went PTO.
By my above formula I should have done a 4’ tiller, but that did cover my rear tread width. I found a 4.5’ one (5hp/foot) and it works well for me. I have broken ground that had not been broken in 35+ years according to the owner. It took multiple passes. I usually till in a gear that goes at about 1 mph and prefer to alternate the direction of my passes 90 degrees. Following this, even in the 35+ year untouched ground, I have been able to produce powder.
I advise you to do soil test to see what type of nutrients your ground may need. The better crop produced, the more game that will be attracted.

 

[Williy]

I seen a 2018 model AG-MEIER RTR tiller and it really will take
a beating! Very heavy metal. No slip clutch, for me I prefer the
shear pin as you can replace them all day long and not cost a
fortune but a slip clutch when it breaks your down for a few days
not says the cost of the parts! RTR is reverse rotation I will never
own one they take more HP and if you hit a rock it will more than
likely go under and could wreck your tiller!

Tillers Archives - Ag-Meier Industries

www.ag-meier.net

willy

 

[JohnnyMX]

I have both a reverse tine tiller and a field cultivator and for food plots of that size, I'm not sure I'd go for the tiller first. Seat time plus maintenance and clearing the vines/roots/weeds could add up. If you have the patience to let the top matter decay as opposed to chopping it up, you may get a similar result for less. I'm not sure what other uses for the tiller you had in mind so that is a consideration (gardens/fixing lawns/etc.). You also didn't mention if these plots would be annual or perennial (clover for years vs. spring/fall plots) which is going to equate to how much time it will take for maintaining them. Are the plots square/rectangular or odd shapes? If they are all odd-shaped you may be better with a tiller, if square/rectangular then more conventional tillage may be a better option. Prices pulled from EA's website for directional reference only.

1. Spray/mow/burn(??) the top followed by the field cultivator. I pull a 9 shank with 50hp, so you could do more with your rig. You may have a few clods until it starts to decompose, but your second year will be EASY and you end up with a good tool to maintain all the plots quickly moving forward. (11/13 shank ~$2000). No maintenance.

2. Use a plow to turn the soil then hit with a field cultivator. The ground will be nicer upfront and you have two implements that require almost zero maintenance. You still have a faster tool for maintenance than a tiller. (11 shank cultivator $1900 + Plow $1800 = ~4K) Sell the plow when done.

3. Spray/mow/burn(??) + Tiller (4K-5K) for a larger 84-90", heavier duty tiller. Get on and go. If you don't have a ton of rock YOU ARE LUCKY. I would be a nervous wreck doing 20 acres on my land and have my hand on the PTO button just waiting to hit the buried tiller-killer

Post pics of what you went with and how you made out.

 

[spruce Deere]

Well, I have a 60'' king kutter tiller bought brand new in '16 and it does 10 to 15 acres a year. My soil is clay, next to no rocks, one now and again.

I smoked a U-joint the first year, felt weird from the get-go. Five years into using it zero issues other than the out most tines on one side wearing a little quicker..... I loaned it out, 3 figg'n months later got it back that way, had to call the fella to boot.... No equipment of mine goes there no more to say the least...

So, I figger sheer loaning stupidity on my behalf set aside, my KK tiller has cost me very little to operate. Grease it every time, hit the dirt full throttle.

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[MESSMAKER]

A good cutting disc can be impressive and fast. I have a tiller and it is fine but I would not want to attack a large piece of property with it.