Rotor Puller

[dts1449]

I was tired of beating on my 2500HD rear rotor to get it off. The emergency brakes had hung up and I couldn't repair them without pulling the rotor and drum assembly off. I decided to take a break from the 3# hand maul and figure out something different. There is no place to pry without damaging the dust or backing plate, and since the brake was dragging I couldn't easily turn the axle and pry from the caliper side of things.

I went out to the scrap pile and dragged back some old pipe I had lying around. I did end up spending a couple bucks on a threaded coupler, grade 5 5/8 rod and a nut to fit but it was worth the $10. Once I had it together the drum came right off. I can use it on the front also but will have to make a bar with holes on either end to fit over two opposing wheel studs. I'll have to spin a couple lug nuts on the studs so they act as a spacer. Then the bar. That way the threaded rod will push against the bar rather than the grease cap of the hub assembly. It's pretty cheap and dirty but it has already paid for itself.

 

[jayste]

Very nice. I've made similar ones for smaller jobs. Necessity is the mother of all invention.....:thumbsup:

 

[czechsonofagun]

Nice job.

 

[AlanB]

Very Nice.

I hate that when they are stuck, I have one of the K-D commercial drum pullers with the little hammer area's on the feet and it works OK, but yours looks stouter.

 

[captaincrab55]

dts 1449, Ok if I copy that???

Thanks for sharing...

 

[dts1449]

Thanks for looking, and feel free CaptainCrab55. I hope the idea works out for you.
DTS

 

[helenk579]

I was tired of beating on my 2500HD rear rotor to get it off. The emergency brakes had hung up and I couldn't repair them without pulling the rotor and drum assembly off. I decided to take a break from the 3# hand maul and figure out something different. There is no place to pry without damaging the dust or backing plate, and since the brake was dragging I couldn't easily turn the axle and pry from the caliper side of things.

I went out to the scrap pile and dragged back some old pipe I had lying around. I did end up spending a couple bucks on a threaded coupler, grade 5 5/8 rod and a nut to fit but it was worth the $10. Once I had it together the drum came right off. I can use it on the front also but will have to make a bar with holes on either end to fit over two opposing wheel studs. I'll have to spin a couple lug nuts on the studs so they act as a spacer. Then the bar. That way the threaded rod will push against the bar rather than the grease cap of the hub assembly. It's pretty cheap and dirty but it has already paid for itself.

Thanks you for the post.
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[Skyco]

Nice work.

Being the eternal pessimist though, I have to wonder if there is a chance of warping the rotor. Of course if it has to come off then it has to come off....

 

[Hawghauler]

Nice job.

 

[CharlieS]

If you drill say a 5/16 hole in the working end of the all-thread just deep enough for a short bolt to be inserted, say 1/2 inch deep, and cut a bolt short enough it lets the (slightly greased) bolt head ride on the end of the all-thread, the all-thread will turn much easier when the puller starts to apply pressure, and that working end won't try to "walk".

 

[dts1449]

That's what makes this place great, ideas that improve on an idea. You're right Skyco, but I guess if the rotor is that weak or flimsy it should be replaced anyway. And CharlieS, thanks for the idea, I'll try to make that modification next time I get to spend a few minutes in the shop. I'll post some pics. I'll try to make the bar for the front hub also. As it turns out I have another caliper to change, front driver's. ( I really don't need to remove the rotor for that but it could be a good test as long as I'm that deep into it.
Thanks again,
DTS

 

[EdisonCheug]

wow, really good job, man!
they're pretty nice.:thumbsup:

 

[Renze]

Being the eternal pessimist though, I have to wonder if there is a chance of warping the rotor. Of course if it has to come off then it has to come off....

I took one off my brothers Mercedes Vito van to replace the wheel bearing. He has double assister springs, and loads it up quite so the bearing has an excuse to fail at 200.000km. (he is a blacksmith, the anvil alone weighs 120kg, the stock of horseshoes a couple of hundred, then a drill press, thread tapping machine, etcetera, in a 2.7 ton GVW vehicle, empty weight 1700kg)
because the brake rotors were cracking because they wore so thin that they wouldnt dissipate the braking heat enough anymore, i heated around the center (damaging the bearing dust seal wasnt a problem because the bearing was ragged anyways).
Then i tapped it off the hub and threw it aside. After 2 minutes i heard it cracking: Hardened brake rotors dont like being unevenly heated.

Anyways, before putting new ones on, we sandpapered the hubs to give the new ones some room, if they ever have to come off.

 

[charlz]

Nice!

I like the rotors on my imports, they have two threaded holes in between lug bolts, put in a couple of bolts and tighten them down and it pops the rotor right off

 

[jimmyj]

Nice idea. I have drilled holes to use jack bolts like charlz describes. Sometimes the things just WON'T come off.