Rotten floorboads on trailer

[Alan L.]

I have a cheap 16' flatbed trailer I bought new for $900 in 1999 to transport my Kubota 2710. Some of the boards are rotten and I would like to replace them all.

Unfortunately, in addition to being screwed into the trailer frame using self-tapping torx screws on two coarses, the ends of the boards are covered by steal plates welded to the frame, making it impossible to remove or replace them without some way to cut the welds.

It appears that if I use a cutting wheel on an angle grinder to cut the welds at the front of the trailer, the boards will come out (after I remove the torx screws). Then I thought about replacing the boards, then making some bolt-on brackets to hold the boards down in front, to avoid having to do any welding, since I don't own one.

What is the normal procedure for replacing floorboards in a flatbed trailer?

 

[JackIL]

Alan,

My trailer had the same problem with rotton boards in only 3 years, and it too had been built by welding in the hold-down strips on each end. I took a more radical, but hopefully, more long-term solution. I had the entire deck replaced with metal plate welded into place. This added more weight to the trailer, but not enough to be impractical.

I think your idea of removable brackets sounds very practical.

Good Luck.

JackIL

 

[Dargo]

I've changed the boards on my trailer and for a few of my friends. It is really no big deal to cut the welds off with a narrow wheel on a small angle grinder. As long as you replace the cheap original boards with treated boards and treat them every few years, the welded on flat bar isn't a bad setup. Also, you don't need to screw the boards to the trailer. On all of the trailers I've fixed, I've not seen any of the boards screwed on.
When I had the boards off, I added 4" by 6" angle in addition to each existing small 2" by 3" angle. If you have the same small angle under the boards as I did, you may want to add more strength. My existing angle was really bowed in the middle from the weight of my tractor driving on and off of the trailer. I can now drive my fork truck onto my trailer without any problems, where I couldn't possibly do that before.
If you don't have a welder, any welding shop should weld the flat bar back on for you for minimal charge. It really is no big deal.

 

[Bird]

Alan, you might want to read this thread before you start cutting metal.

 

[Alan L.]

Bird, thanks for showing me the other thread. I can't believe I missed it!

Looks I'll try get the boards out and back in without cutting or welding, and if I can't then I'll cut.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

 

[soarkrebel]

I've done a few and the easiest IMO is to grind the welds down on the back. there is probably a piece of flat stock welded to hold the boards down. i grind until i can get a pry bar and pry it up and it breaks off.
then comes the fun part getting those pesky screws out. if the boards are that rotten you can try busting them off but more than likey you need a torks driving bit and a drill . pull them all out and out goes the boards.
Take your new treated boards as mentioned and cut to size. you may have to have some 2x8 and 2x6's depending on the size of your trailer and how what it takes to cover the bed.

after you cut the boards and have cleaned up the old welds on the flat stock and trailer get you some c clamps. i c clamp the flat stock down snug and weld. you don't have to weld the whole thing just a few 3" spots.

Now me i usually will drill the boards in the middle of the trailer at a piece of angle iron and put in carraige bolts. i find this keeps them from warping or rattling.

Anyway thats the way i do it. oh i have never caught the wood on fire but i have made it smoke. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
uhhhhh just keep some water close by. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif