Rough Cut Oak Boards

[Builder]

Thanks everyone for all the good information. Builder, I've never seen the product you listed. Is is available at the major box stores, or do I need to order it? It looks like it would be good to use on the green lumber.

Thanks Robert

My local lumber suppliers carry it. I generally avoid the box stores. It's cheap & easy to apply.

 

[radioman]

while everyone advice is good- let me add my own. anything green will shrink and leave space between boards. Also if you use anything assembled with steel like a nail while its still green- I have hear that by the time it dried out, the steel nail would be all rusted in the wood, its nearly impossible to take out. Sometimes this is a good thing when you dont want anyhting to fall apart.

 

[rah6965]

That's why I'm using Stainless Bolts. They shouldn't rust.

 

[tlbuser]

Depends on which grade of stainless I like gemini stain for outdoor stuff (your 's would probably be the 100 series), they have a U.V. blocker built in. Cedar Shack TWP100 Series Ued motor oil is cheaper but.....

 

[Stimw]

Semi's use what we always called "Floor Screws". They are 1/4"or 5/16" screws that are self-tapping with counter sink Torque Heads in varrious lengths. You just drill 9/32" hole (for 5/16" screw) and run them in with an impact. They should be available at any good bolt supply or semi trailer repair shop for small quantities.
I've re-decked many dozens of flat bed semi trailers at previous jobs. I would grab a 50lb box for a 45' trailer and use most of it. I still have a homemade "T" drill that I made to stand up and drill the holes! You run the screws down until the heads are below the surface making the deck smooth.

 

[JFS2295]

Those are what his Hudson trailer came with. Those are great if your doing the work you stated.

But as a long term trailer owner, here is my problem. My original bolts were solidly rusted in or stripped out the torx head when I tried to remove them. So to replace I needed to do as you stated. The third time I would be replacing the deck would be the same situation, along with a third set of crossmember weakening holes.

Going with stainless (and Manasquan Fasteners was a great source for me) I still needed to drill the second hole, but I never had to do that again. And I do have the third deck on now.

 

[DIRTROAD]

From experience: It is best to remove the torx head screws with an impact gun instead of a drill. I have redecked many trucks and trailers and this works the best.

 

[nickel plate]

As in Redwood, some Oak species have tannic acids (a natural wood preservative) that can speed up the deterioration of certain metalic fasteners. If this is the case with White Oak, it would be best to use stainless steel. Next best would be HOT DIPPED steel, not the cadium plated stuff found in most hardware stores.
If you use green lumber, be sure to go back and retighten your fasteners after/during the board's drying period.

 

[Robert F.]

(First, I would suggest installing them with the annual growth rings facing down. Like "frowns", not "smiles". I would rather they cure in a "hump" than a "cup".)

I don't want to sound contrary but the growth rings of a board always want to straighten out as the board dries. That means that the board will cup if installed with the rings like frowns as opposed to the smiles which will hump in the middle. (Understanding Wood by Bruce Hoadley, The Taunton Press, page 95 explains this very clearly)
Since you are having the wood milled, it would be to your advantage to have the boards quartersawn or riftsawn. Both of these will have the grain perpendicular to no less that 45degrees to the face of the board and will be very very stable, will not cup and shrinkage will be minimal. White oak will dry about 1 inch per year when air dried. I would put it down green and if it is rift or quarter, you will have no problem what so ever with shrinkage.

Good luck. Bob.

 

[Builder]

(First, I would suggest installing them with the annual growth rings facing down. Like "frowns", not "smiles". I would rather they cure in a "hump" than a "cup".)

I don't want to sound contrary but the growth rings of a board always want to straighten out as the board dries. That means that the board will cup if installed with the rings like frowns as opposed to the smiles which will hump in the middle. (Understanding Wood by Bruce Hoadley, The Taunton Press, page 95 explains this very clearly)
Good luck. Bob.

You could be right with oak since it's not treated.....

I'm used to pressure treated southern yellow pine (also what I see typically used for trailer decks). It is installed bark side up or "frowns down" as stated here by Paul Fisette of Umass Amherst:

"So if you are using treated lumber and you want to expose the most resistant surface you got it bark-side up."

Source: UMass Amherst: Building Materials and Wood Technology Do I Lay Decking Bark-Side Up or Down?

Other sources indicating "frowns down" (bark up) for wood decking:
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Now what I have found after 20+ years of installing outdoor decking is that almost all boards, no matter what their grain orientation, eventually cup and hold water. I think what needs to be realized in how the product looks when installed versus what might happen years down the road.

Customers hate cupped boards, but what they hate a lot more are boards that are installed cupped to begin with, and look cupped when they get the bill for brand new decking.