Rounded off drain plug

[PILOON]

I have had to face those type of challenges (drain plugs broken bolts and studs) and tried vice grips, drilling for easy outs etc etc.

I accidently aquired a quality 6 inch pipe wrench at a garage sale and discovered it to be about the most practical tool for this kind of job.
The advantage of a pipe wrench is that the more force you apply the tighter it grips vs vice grips that rely on a preset grip.
The small 6" pipe wrench shines in that the spacing on the jaw 'teeth' are nice and close for those smaller diameters.
It is about the greatest tool for studs.

My lucky find was a well know brand name hence the teeth were well hardened and therefor gripped great.

 

[Diggin It]

After alot of practice

...


It can be done.

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/related-topics/403784-allot-word-alot-not.html

 

[Katahdin]

I'm wondering if JB-Welding the 15mm box wrench to the plug would help. The epoxy would fill in the gaps around the plug and wrench surfaces.

Make sure the surfaces are degreased and dry, and hold the box wrench in place with a magnet or duct tape while the JB-Weld cures over night.

To get use of the wrench back, zap the hardened JB weld with a propane torch, it'll turn to dust.

If you need more leverage, put a cheater bar on the wrench.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Skip the jacks the; it's high enough.

A smaller pipe wrench has smaller grooves milled into the face and makes it harder to grip on small pieces of steel. I think a bigger wrench would make an easier bite onto those pipe threads, You would have to try it out but I'll bet you can get a big pipe wrench on that. Do you have any plumber friends that could assist? That would be a great idea. Traveling mechanic also good.

If you don't know of one, ask a farmer for the name of a guy that does ag repairs on the side and have one stop out. These guys are everywhere in rural areas.

Also, with the wrench on right with a good bite you can just whack the end of it with a big rubber hammer if clearance is not there. Don't turn the wrench unless you have a good bite on the threads. Preparation will be 95% of this job.

A large wide serrated wrench on a small diameter narrow round surface presents problems. Pipe wrench jaws are pretty loosey goosey, and move a great deal as the jaws bite in. The lack of good guidance, the significant movement of jaws and base metal with big teeth biting in, and the non symmetrical grip way out on the edge of the jaw, causes the end of the narrow surface to round off and the wrench to cam off. -- Then the situation is much worse. It looks as though several iterations of this type of approach, beginning with destroying the original wrench surface are responsible for the current condition. ... Yes, preparation is 95% of this job.

At this point disassembly to allow well controlled welding to the remanent rounded "stud" and the edge of the threaded shoulder seems the only low tech way to assure success. Still the piece welded on might have to be custom shaped and sized to facillitate welding access and wrench grip. The size of the stud and plug body may be compatible for use of a conventional standard or heavy hex nut.

 

[Diggin It]

^^ Packing it with bubble gum might work better than JB. That stuff can't hardly hold its own tube still.

 

[D2Cat]

In the time passed since the first question was posted, the OP could have gone to HF and bought a wire welder and learned how to use it (since he does not have a welder or know how to weld). He could take a piece of flat bar, 3/8" thick x 2" wide and 8-10" long. Drill a hole at one end of the bar stock large enough for the damaged plug to fit in. Hold the bar up, and parallel to the problem area, facing toward the rear, and weld. Tap counter clock wise with a hammer.

 

[SPYDERLK]

In the time passed since the first question was posted, the OP could have gone to HF and bought a wire welder and learned how to use it (since he does not have a welder or know how to weld). He could take a piece of flat bar, 3/8" thick x 2" wide and 8-10" long. Drill a hole at one end of the bar stock large enough for the damaged plug to fit in. Hold the bar up, and parallel to the problem area, facing toward the rear, and weld. Tap counter clock wise with a hammer.

You imply it's an easy task. Perhaps the location and surrounding loader brackets cause problems you're overlooking.

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[Big Barn]

Use it as a good reason to trade in the tractor for a newer one.

 

[D2Cat]

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I looked at the pictures posted. How much room does one need to get the welding tip above the bracket causing the problem?

 

[sixdogs]

I'm wondering if JB-Welding the 15mm box wrench to the plug would help. The epoxy would fill in the gaps around the plug and wrench surfaces.

Make sure the surfaces are degreased and dry, and hold the box wrench in place with a magnet or duct tape while the JB-Weld cures over night.

To get use of the wrench back, zap the hardened JB weld with a propane torch, it'll turn to dust.

If you need more leverage, put a cheater bar on the wrench.

Pretty novel thinking and I could see doing this in certain applications.
The JB Weld might be hard in 24 hours but it still has some "give" that sometimes takes a longer cure time. Maybe a week or more but that's just my experience. Fresh JB Weld does cure faster.