Mowing ROW's and how fasst can you cut

reggie717 · Apr 23, 2017

I have been getting some really good feedback on the forums here, so first off....THANKS!!! to everyone for being will to share knowledge and experience.

I am starting a business to cut ROW's and am focusing on Pipeline and Utility ROW's.

We will purchase or lease a new JD or Kubota in the 80 to 100 HP range to pull a 15' Heavy Duty Bat Wing.

So here is where I need help.

I am figuring that in say 12"-18" grass and weeds the unit should be able to run at 4.5 to 5.5 MPH. Allowing for 12" of overlap and saying I can cut at 50 minutes per hour would mean 6.4 to 7.8 acres per hour. Further I am figuring a 10 hour work day with 8 hours of cutting time to allow for all the BS that can (and does) happen. That would put production at 51.2 to 59.2 acres per day.

For knee to thigh high grass and weeds I am guessing that the unit should be able to run at 3 to 4 MPH. Again allowing for 12" of overlap and saying I can cut at 50 minutes per hour would mean 4.2 to 5.7 acres per hour, which would give me a production of 33.6 to 45.6 acres per day.

When grass and weeds are waist high or more I have no idea or guess what to think for production.

Does this sound about right for estimating? Honestly I feel like my the equipment should perform better than these estimates...but I would rather estimate low on production and get more done than promised than to ever be behind on what is promised.

I would really like feed back from everyone....Especially anyone cutting Pipeline and Utility ROWS.

THANX!!!!

TerryR · Apr 23, 2017

Without benefit of any experience with RoW work, I'm thinking your estimate that you can get 8 50-minute hours out of a 10 hour day, with only a 12" overlap, is wildly overestimating your productivity.

I'm interested in seeing whether anyone with experience in this work responds. As I recall none of the respondents in the other current thread on this topic, which you need to read, have any actual experience either.

reggie717 · Apr 24, 2017

TerryR said:
Without benefit of any experience with RoW work, I'm thinking your estimate that you can get 8 50-minute hours out of a 10 hour day, with only a 12" overlap, is wildly overestimating your productivity.

I'm interested in seeing whether anyone with experience in this work responds. As I recall none of the respondents in the other current thread on this topic, which you need to read, have any actual experience either.

Terry,
Thanks for the input on overlap, do the travel speeds seem right??

rustyshakelford · Apr 24, 2017

Like I said in your other thread, 80-100 will be light in the hp for what your wanting I think. My set up does great but it's 100 engine hp, 85 pto and there's time I want more. If I was mowing what you want it would be a 6135e so it's a basic no frills tractor, no FEL with a 24/12 trans. That should give you plenty of tractor and hp. Also the bigger tires. I use this estimator for mowing. A 10% overlap is more realistic than 12" to me. Also, unless there are zero trees your numbers are high. Trees and obstacles really slow you down. I think the fuel tank in the 6 series is larger too. I can get about 25 acres cut on a tank of fuel and not be sweating to bad. Here is the calculator I use

Brett

Mowing Calcuator | How many acres can I mow in an hour

reggie717 · Apr 24, 2017

rustyshakelford said:
Like I said in your other thread, 80-100 will be light in the hp for what your wanting I think. My set up does great but it's 100 engine hp, 85 pto and there's time I want more. If I was mowing what you want it would be a 6135e so it's a basic no frills tractor, no FEL with a 24/12 trans. That should give you plenty of tractor and hp. Also the bigger tires. I use this estimator for mowing. A 10% overlap is more realistic than 12" to me. Also, unless there are zero trees your numbers are high. Trees and obstacles really slow you down. I think the fuel tank in the 6 series is larger too. I can get about 25 acres cut on a tank of fuel and not be sweating to bad. Here is the calculator I use

Brett

Mowing Calcuator | How many acres can I mow in an hour

Thanks Brett.

So lets say I have the 6135, and adjust for the overlap, do the travels speeds sound right? are they to slow...to fast??? I mean if you were able to just cut in a straight line. I will have to see the area to know the actual conditions....trees and such.

coobie · Apr 24, 2017

Being a retired Electric lineman I can tell you it depends on the ROW.Are you talking Electric distribution or transmission ROW? Utilities usually hire the cheapest contractor who bids the least $$ to clear the trees,brush and such.How quick you can mow depends how much Chit and debris the last podunk contractor left in the ROW. You might want to take some time and walk a few ROW to see if you want to even get involved in the process.

jenkinsph · Apr 24, 2017

IN theory a 14' swath would equate to .589 miles travel to cut one acre. So travelling at 5.89 mph you should cut 10 acres an hour. The math is the easy part the unforeseen difficulties mean you could loose a day trying to get repairs made in the boondocks. How much time you can get mowing vs. crossing highways and getting through gates and other obstacles is key here.

Mowing long successive strips will work best if you can make this in odd number of passes. For example, with three passes you drive up one pass, back second pass and up again third pass and that puts you at the end of the area to drive thru the next gate. If you had to make four passes to get it cut you would still be making a 5th pass to get to the next opening, that is more lost time.

As mentioned in your other thread the variables are what will make or break you.

Streetcar · Apr 24, 2017

Most state dot have mowing contracts. You can check public records to see what they bid for in your area

redman135 · Apr 24, 2017

Hello reggie717, I think your cutting numbers are optimistic.
I drove for a hay and silage contractor, and the best production was large farms, ( big gates, good tracks, and large unobstructed paddocks) while the worst was lifestyles farmlets (tiny gates(10' wide tractors and 9'6" gates don't work) narrow tracks, deep potholes, awkward gate approach/exit and pokey little paddocks with trees planted in them).
I drove a 6910 and 6920, which are similar to the 6135. What gearbox will you use, auto quad, or ivt? The gearbox will matter more than the HP as it dictates how much work you have to do to operate the tractor.
Try several makes of tractor as there are subtle differences between makes that can make or break a tractor, ie "fit" eg is a control just right or a reach? JD hydraulic levers (scv) are at the wrong angle for me (to far back).
What are your weather patterns and the effect on your ability to work?
Also what soils types are you working on, and how does rain or dew affect your work time?
If you have to drive to a job how long a transit?
Will your gear get vandalised/stolen if left onsite?
What is the condition and length of "off-road" access tracks? rough tracks can do a lot of damage as can moron drivers, AND they eat time.
How steep is the job? Straight up and down is ok, but a rough sidling will roll you before you know it. You can hide a lot under long grass, I speak from experience.
As another person posted, how much obstruction is there?
WHEN you get damaged how good is your backup to minimise down time?
Lastly, how good are you at dealing with obstructive people/slow payers as these 2 can make or break you.
Just a few of many things to consider.
good luck