Running long water/power line...need suggestions

   / Running long water/power line...need suggestions #21  
kmdigital said:
I wouldn't think you need anything larger then 1",

so your recomending 1" waterline to feed a "decent sized" house some 1500 feet away?!?! so why not just run 5/8" garden hose for anything less than 300' ?!?!

Round these parts, municipalites generally recomend stepping up to 1" (from 3/4") when the runs to the house start aproaching 100' (yes one hundred)

I think you would be crazy to use anything less than 1.5" for a run of 1500'. On a gravity feed system you really want to minimize your pressure loss. (IMO)
 
   / Running long water/power line...need suggestions
  • Thread Starter
#22  
2" is what I plan to use. Nothing smaller. I do need a fire hydrant near the house. I also plan to install sprinklers on the roof and a few strategic locations. This is wild fire country here. Every year, wild brush fire will take some houses. Just hope it didn't happen too close your house.

Just don't know what's the best type of piping material for the water main from the tank. Does anybody know what type of pipe the municipal water company use?
 
Last edited:
   / Running long water/power line...need suggestions #23  
schmism said:
I think you would be crazy to use anything less than 1.5" for a run of 1500'. On a gravity feed system you really want to minimize your pressure loss. (IMO)

I agree in a big way. The pressure is already pretty low at 43 so any additional head loss from skimping on the pipe diameter will really hurt the houses functionality. Over a quarter mile, no less than 1.5" and seriously consider larger if depending on gravity for supply pressure.
 
   / Running long water/power line...need suggestions #24  
stumpfield said:
Does anybody know what type of pipe the municipal water company use?

ya it depends on the municipality. most times for avg stuff its C900 a PVC derivitive (but the smallest youll find that in is like 4" im fairly shure) most of it is class (or schedule) 150... with a sustianted pressure test of 500psi... tested to 755psi (it ant your Home depot PVC) :D

but theres also DIP ductial iron pipe that they use for the BIG stuff (think 12-30") (they put some new 20" DIP down the front of the park a block from my house... the stuff was HUGE)
 
   / Running long water/power line...need suggestions #25  
HomeBrew2 said:
Hey neighbor! Is that a Johnson Drilling rig in the pic? When did you have your well drilled? What's the depth and GPM ... I may have missed it if you posted about it previously.
Cheers!
Hi neighbor Steve!
Yeah, that is the Wick's Bros old truck. Man, they sure know what they are doing. Aside from there renown ability to find water and do a first class installation, their skills are great. I was really impressed with Leroy and Wally the older one. He did all the welding...torch and arc. Depending where he was on the weld, he flipped from right hand to left hand welding like it was nothing.

I have posted several times about our well dig but here is our website where Loretta documented the whole affair....very exciting. Scroll down to read then click on pictures and videos.
DIGGING THE WELL


Stumpfield,
I would stick with the 2" pipe and bury it. I just ran 1600' to get water to my camp and used 1"....wish I used larger for more pressure. But it is only my camp (cost thing) so it's not nearly as important as getting the good pressure to your house.
 
   / Running long water/power line...need suggestions
  • Thread Starter
#26  
3RRL said:
Stumpfield,
I would stick with the 2" pipe and bury it. I just ran 1600' to get water to my camp and used 1"....wish I used larger for more pressure. But it is only my camp (cost thing) so it's not nearly as important as getting the good pressure to your house.

Wow! you ran 1600' to your camp? Is your well closer to the home site? How long did it take to do trenching? Did you run it along your road?
 
   / Running long water/power line...need suggestions #27  
C900 is the right # for the pipe it does come in 2" also have put a lot of it in real easy to work with just lube the joints and it will slip right together. You will also gain some pressure when you neck it down from 2" to 1" to go into house.get it all together and give it a big dose of clorine let it set over night flush it good and it will work fine. the only other thing if you put any bends in the line with fittings (ie 90 or 45 deg ) block them against the side of the ditch use cement blocks or such keeps the pressure from pushing them apart mainley till the ground settles around the pipe.
 
   / Running long water/power line...need suggestions #28  
C900 has been upgraded to C909. Same ratings, it's just half as thick and half as heavy. I ran 6inch C909 seven hundred feet to my house and will add another 200 feet and a fire hydrant some time next year. Then I'll drop down to two four inch lines.

At 6 inches, it's light enough for my wife and I to install it without too much trouble. If you can get it in 2 inch, it should be a piece of cake to install.


Eddie
 
   / Running long water/power line...need suggestions #29  
True, you do get pressure loss over that distance, but it would cheaper to install a pressure tank and pump system at the house then to run that much 2" pipe, IF you didn't also need the volume for your hydrant and roof sprinklers. But I would still install poly or PEX pipe (though 2" PEX ain't cheap) over 2" Sch 40 PVC.

I spent 15 years as a plumber, and I just don't like anything over 3/4" or max 1" diameter of PVC pipe for pressure applications. Any leaks you get at any fittings are very difficult to fix, and the male/female adapters have a habit of seeping through and you never know it until everything is glued together. The only way I would use regular non-municipal grade pipe would be to use Sch 80 PVC pipe and fittings, which is twice as thick as the Sch 40 pipe. And obviously, Sch 80 costs more then Sch 40.

Poly is the cheapest, just be sure to use the 160 psi stuff, and it is by far the easiest to install and connect. At the pressures you will have in it, it will outlast you. I have never seen the better grades of poly fail, but have replaced/repaired quite a bit of the cheaper, thinner stuff. It tends to split lengthwise down the pipe after it runs close to the rated pressure for long periods of time. This is why PEX is so much better, as it is cross-linked at the molecular level, and won't split.
 
   / Running long water/power line...need suggestions #30  
The C900-C909 does not glue together NEVER use the sch40 glue together pipe for pressure water we had several water companies around here try that the only good thing about it was I make quite a bit of money repairing leaks and then replacing the lines for them. pressure line flexes and that leads to broken joints. I would also use the fittings that bolt together for any bends a little more expensive but well worth it. They are now starting to use some plastic pipe that is welded but don't know much about it yet
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2007 International 7500 sba Flatbed 6x6 Truck (A52384)
2007 International...
2020 TAKEUCHI TL 12V-2 (A52472)
2020 TAKEUCHI TL...
FAKE (A52472)
FAKE (A52472)
378738 (A51573)
378738 (A51573)
12ft Godwin Dump Body/Bed (A51573)
12ft Godwin Dump...
2021 TAKEUCHI TL8R2 SKID STEER (A51246)
2021 TAKEUCHI...
 
Top