Runs nice and dies in 20 min UPDATE UPDATE

[Danica]

Remember that the casting at the top of the filter head is part of the fuel delivery circuit. Check that. You said you blew through the in and out lines but you didn't mention blowing out the filter casting itself. Pay particular attention to the fuel inlet part of the casting.

I would have checked the lift pump screen first before I ordered a new pump.

Ooops, yes that’s the screen I referenced earlier. Well, I will check it and if that’s the culprit will send the new $60 lift pump back. And you’re right I did not pay much attention to the filter casting so there are two possible solutions. Thanks again (and to those who mentioned these before)

 

[Danica]

A silly question, but how long does it take to get it started again? Only ask because i wonder if an alternator issue could be effecting battery charging?. Leading to the drop in voltage you see.

can you test battery voltage next time this happenes.

Oh my, yes very possible because a brand new battery went in prior to this mess but it was fine for quite a while. I will def monitor battery voltage. Typically if I let it sit for an hour it will start up fine and run smoothly until it is warmed up (per temp gauge) at which point is slowly loses power. As noted once a while ago if it warms up at 1,000rpm it could take 40 min and then it starts dying. If it warms up in 10min at 2,500 rpm the same thing happens just sooner. That’s why I think weirdly enuf it could be engine temp related as kooky as that sounds…. Thanks for the input

 

[Danica]

I would try using a 5 gallon can of diesel with a hose to your pump/filter head. This will eliminate any possibility of something in the tank blocking the pick up. If that works then you know it's forward of that.

Yep that was suggested but will be tricky as the woods FEL is totally in the way (ditto sims cab) giving me just maybe 4” of free space to work in. Very inconvenient!

 

[Danica]

Pull the tank and throw a small chain in it and shake it rinse and repeat.

With the sims cab on pulling the tank would be a major project I think. I have another FEL that could help out but omg this sounds like a lot of work. Plus I flushed it and never had diminished fuel flow from tank. But if all else fails I will attempt. First I will give the fuel lift pump a chance ditto the housing on top of the sediment bowl.

 

[dieselscout80]

I would try using a 5 gallon can of diesel with a hose to your pump/filter head. This will eliminate any possibility of something in the tank blocking the pick up. If that works then you know it's forward of that.

I think you mean if it works from the 5 gal can then the issue is in the tank. Is that correct in your mind as it is for me?

 

[NewGuyInNewEngland]

A possibility worth checking out is whether you're getting bubbles in the fuel. Since the injector pump pulls a little bit of a vacuum on the system between the float bowl & the pump, a small leak in an old rubber fuel line, or a loose connection could let bubbles in. A small amount of air could make the engine run poorly without being bad enough to require priming. Also, since everything expands a little when it heats up, it could be that you don't have an air leak until the engine is warm.

Thought I'd add my two cents... Nickfrank may be on to something...looking at your original photo, I see you have fuel lines that have a braided (metal?) jacket. I just went through a similar scenario with my Mahindra 5035 which came stock with a similar type fuel line.

Only 11 years old with 300 hours and it would run fine for about 20 - 30 minutes at idle or low rpm... about 10 minutes during active work. Seems the rubber used becomes porous and allows air to leak into the fuel system without any sort of fuel leakage, which was the real head-scratcher part.
Turns out Mahindra had a bad run of fuel lines around the time I purchased mine in 2011 (my dealer never gave me a heads up) so with input from the TBN community and some local friends, we removed the heavy left rear wheel (about 500+ lbs with beet juice for ballast) so I could get my hands in where they needed for the lines to the tank and replaced them. Also replaced 3 others for fuel return and injector feed (low-pressure side). She's been running like a charm ever since.
If those are the original fuel lines, I'd suggest replacing all of them with real rubber (not plastic) auto parts store fuel lines (got mine from amazon on sale, although the price has gone up since)
Good luck.
NG

 

[sandytrail]

Some New Hollands have an electric fuel shutoff solenoid. I am not familiar with that tractor, but.....just in case.

 

[Danica]

I didn't know that the Ford 1920 had a fuel transfer pump (lift pump) so I Googled it and sure enough there it is. So it jumps to the head of the list. Much as I hate to throw parts at a problem there comes a point when I will do a bit of that before calling a diesel mechanic.

View attachment 761914

Ok wierd question: the fuel transfer pump in ur pic is for engines manufactured after 1999 and mine was purchased Aug 1999. Isn’t it likely that my Shib engine was built in 1998 or before? I say that also cuz looking very carefully all around it I don’t see anything like the pump in the pic. Who on earth would know the diff between a ‘98 vs ‘99 Shib engine in the ford 1920? This is total esoterica! I’m afraid she may be off to dealer. The die down is definitely related to engine temp. All the lines a flowing solidly when it dies down (tried them one by one) including outflow from sediment bowl.

 

[Danica]

Thought I'd add my two cents... Nickfrank may be on to something...looking at your original photo, I see you have fuel lines that have a braided (metal?) jacket. I just went through a similar scenario with my Mahindra 5035 which came stock with a similar type fuel line.

Only 11 years old with 300 hours and it would run fine for about 20 - 30 minutes at idle or low rpm... about 10 minutes during active work. Seems the rubber used becomes porous and allows air to leak into the fuel system without any sort of fuel leakage, which was the real head-scratcher part.
Turns out Mahindra had a bad run of fuel lines just after I purchased mine in 2011 (my dealer never gave me a heads up) so with input from the TBN community and some local friends, we removed the heavy left rear wheel (about 500+ lbs with beet juice for ballast) so I could get my hands in where they needed for the lines to the tank and replaced them. Also replaced 3 others for fuel return and injector feed (low-pressure side). She's been running like a charm ever since.
If those are the original fuel lines, I'd suggest replacing all of them with real rubber (not plastic) auto parts store fuel lines (got mine from amazon on sale, although the price has gone up since)
Good luck.
NG

I missed this post somehow and it makes sense…the (overflow?) line going back to fuel tank was practically mushy so I trimmed about a half inch from it and replaced. But yes the more important fuel lines are original which makes them over 20 years old. Also, this tractor was bought in Aug ‘99 and there was a big design change such that parts stores online say “pre-1999”. I would imagine my engine was built in ‘98 or earlier…

Thanks again for your ideas and feedback.
Danica

 

[Danica]

Thought I'd add my two cents... Nickfrank may be on to something...looking at your original photo, I see you have fuel lines that have a braided (metal?) jacket. I just went through a similar scenario with my Mahindra 5035 which came stock with a similar type fuel line.

Only 11 years old with 300 hours and it would run fine for about 20 - 30 minutes at idle or low rpm... about 10 minutes during active work. Seems the rubber used becomes porous and allows air to leak into the fuel system without any sort of fuel leakage, which was the real head-scratcher part.
Turns out Mahindra had a bad run of fuel lines just after I purchased mine in 2011 (my dealer never gave me a heads up) so with input from the TBN community and some local friends, we removed the heavy left rear wheel (about 500+ lbs with beet juice for ballast) so I could get my hands in where they needed for the lines to the tank and replaced them. Also replaced 3 others for fuel return and injector feed (low-pressure side). She's been running like a charm ever since.
If those are the original fuel lines, I'd suggest replacing all of them with real rubber (not plastic) auto parts store fuel lines (got mine from amazon on sale, although the price has gone up since)
Good luck.
NG

I’ll go to Napa…