Rustic Fireplace Mantle

   / Rustic Fireplace Mantle #11  
If you drop a log and let it dry, it will just weather check. You have to cure hardwood to keep it from checking. There are a couple ways I know of, besides commercial steam kilns: shellac (several coats) the ends of the logs and let them air dry in the shade for 5 years or so, or sink the log in running water for six months and let the water wash the pitch out.

The old Norse and Swedes used to sink timbers in 2000' of water for a few weeks. When they hauled them up, they were flexible enough to shape and block into a ship's prow.
 
   / Rustic Fireplace Mantle
  • Thread Starter
#12  
curtins will be moved no problems there.
Larry I had not heard of that technique, I knew I had to get it down to 10-12% moisture but was not sure how or for how long. Will they weather check if I cut the log, seal the ends and peal the bark off?

"I think a natural finish to the outside would be nice, any curvature to the original wood with knots or whatever, but naturally flat to the wall."
Thats what we were thinking, possibly going with a "Live edge" type of mantle with 3 coats of semi-gloss.

With the corbels we were just throwing around ideas when I remembered I had these (for a shelf by the bread oven we are making). They are heavy, and I worry that the weight of them, along with the weight of the mantle will be too much. I really cant find any info on what type of anchor(s) are used to hold the mantle to the wall, some make a box mantle with 3 sides and keep the back open and use a ledger board, some people had it planned out ahead of time and had rebar drilled and epoxied into their studs.

I have a couple of things I am working on first, but as i am pulling field stone out for the house, I have been saving the best pieces for inside. I really want to understand how the whole thing goes together first.

Thank you all really really apprecaite the info.
 
   / Rustic Fireplace Mantle #13  
I am going to make a mantle out of Oak, possibly also for the side columns. You may have to do what I am, I have several Oaks down and will let them finish out to one year, that will give me time to find or make a chainsaw mill for mostly just this little job.

I think a natural finish to the outside would be nice, any curvature to the original wood with knots or whatever, but naturally flat to the wall.

I think yours will look sharp with the rock. Have you considered using those big heavy ones for a hearth, or possibly a wood rack? then you may be able to avoid the "attaching to the wall" thing. Just a thought.

Have you done this before? Im just asking cause i think a whole tree left on the ground for a year will start to go bad, as in rotting or spalting or whatever they call it. You may go to cut into it and it has fungus and rot and is dryrotting inside from the moisture not being able to escape and getting to hot?

As a forester they dont keep wood out dry for that long, they can keep it under water in a pond or under sprinkler for a while, as it has something to do with insects and wet, in the pond there is an absense of oxygen as well.
 
   / Rustic Fireplace Mantle
  • Thread Starter
#14  
I did research some solar, and personal lumber kilns. Looks like people are making them for around 2-300 with the cost of materials and the dehydrator.

I got in touch with a rustic mantle maker and this is what he said:
"Installation is dependent on your walls construction. Based upon the information you provided I assume your wall is traditional stud frame construction. I would start by installing two double-lapped 2x10" blocking in the two stud cavities where the mantel is to be installed. If you can access the wall from the backside the next step would be to drill a hole through the blocking. Then drill two holes in the mantel two thirds of the depth of the mantel. Then simply install lag screws through the blocking and into the mantel. If you can't access the wall from the backside then screw the blocking to the rear of the mantel with the lag screw then put the blocking and mantel into the stud cavities. To secure the blocking in place screw through the side of the stud into the blocking. Repeat on the other side.

The dimension of the mantel at the listed price are as follows: 5" thickness, 8" width, 60" length. I have larger pieces available at an additional price. The weight of the mantel will be between 60-75 lbs. "
 

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