same old newbie question...what is recommended for

[IslandTractor]

Here is another option: If you don't need to mow the bumpy weed field more than a few times/year, then consider keeping the Simplicity for your 2acres of yard and get a DR mower for the lumpy stuff. The DR walk behind brush mowers are very tough and are essentially small brush hogs. They cost between $1500-2500 depending on Hp and deck size. Would not want to mow two acres every week with these things but they absolutely can do anything a small CUT with a brush hog can do only slower. They are sold over the internet and some local equipment dealers carry them.

 

[takesallkinds]

Thank you all!
This is going to take longer than I thought.
I figured out CUT and GT but what is PT?

 

[professor]

I agree with STEVEM that the compacts are a much better investment than the gas L&G tractors. Presently I own a Yanmar 1401(approx. 16 hp) with a 5ft rear finishing mower to handle my 4 acres. I purchased the tractor along with a Yanmar tiller for $3200 plus $1100 for the mower. I invested another $450 for turf tires. I have used the tractor trouble free for five years. I have also purchased a plow, box blade, 38 inch brush cutter and post hole digger. The tractor is so much more versatile tan the L&G.

 

[Spiffy]

PT = Power Trac

I just [mistakenly] presumed you knew that one since you asked about the smaller Power Tracs. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

What percentage of other tasks do you have in mind? Fourteen made a good point in your other thread that for mowing alone a PT isn't ecconomical - especially if you choose both a rough cut and finishing mower. Lawn/Garden If you are looking at some really nasty conditions, I'm still stuck on something a couple models heavier than his perfect unit.

It was posted earlier that ZTRs were mostly for lawns, I won't argue that ZTRs may have been originally designed with lawns in mind or that midmounts may rattle the bones a little, but we replaced a 15 year old well built but heavily abused GT with a commercial Z and it's taken the same abuse and terrain; maybe easier [give me 13 years for a better review /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif].

Another Interesting Thread.... ...although slightly different needs than yours in the original question: check out the link.

Anyway maybe you need a CUT, perhaps you only mow and all your areas are wide open so you'd be happy with a GT, maybe you want the manuverability of a ZTR, perhaps you find the PT appealing or perhaps even something like the Steiner/Ventrac [though I'm not reading you have nasty side hills as much as just rough]. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Good Luck! But if you're looking at a little quality, I doubt you'll be dissapointed in any choice for the challanges I think you have.

 

[Spiffy]

Over your budget and used; probably 2 strikes, but I have to wonder if the 422 listed doesn't have all the toys you'd ever want!

422

 

[flusher]

With only 2 acres of lawn, I'd get a nice riding mower with a 48" belly mower and plan to spend the better part of a day on this chore. My preference would be a Husqvarna with a Kawasaki engine. You could probably get one for under $2.5K if you buy before the mowing season starts.

For your 2 acres of weeds, I'd hire someone with a CUT/brush hog to mow a few times a season. Last April I got estimates in the $50-55/acre range for this type of service in my neck of the woods. Three mowings per season on 2 acres is about $300/year.

I think this approach would meet your $$ pain threshold for maybe 5 years until the riding mower needs service or replacement.

 

[daTeacha]

I have a early 70's vintage Cub Cadet. It mows basically everything I care to run over with it. I replaced the engine last year. Counting purchase price, parts, etc. -- everything but gas and oil, I figure I have spent about $3500 over 29 years of use mowing lawn, plowing snow, clearing fence line, mowing trails in the woods, hauling brush, etc.

I wish my newer Cadet was as good. If you go used, get a garden tractor or compact tractor, not a lawn tractor. Ask serious questions about frame strength and such. Look at lots of 'em with an engineers eye. Don't be fooled by high hp ratings. Mine started life as only 10 hp, is now 12. You'd have to write me a pretty good sized check to buy it.

 

[jima1]

Look at the older Kubotas. My 20-yr old B7200 w/ loader was in your price range 6 yrs ago when I bought it...3pt hitch gives you flexibility to add what you need, which sounds like a mower and rotary cutter (hard but not impossible to find them used, too). Plenty rugged for lawn/field work, and other jobs will become possible as well. Much more fun to spend 2 hrs on Kubota than all day on lawn (or even garden) tractor /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

My only cautions are: 1) you'll need to be ready for whatever care and feeding an older tractor might require...nothing major on mine so far /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif 2) please be careful, it's a lot easier to do a lot of damage on a compact (again, nothing major so far!) /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[takesallkinds]

Dear all,
Thanks much. I really do appreciate the advice and opinions.
All things considered, I figure a hefty GT or a used CUT. Maybe grey (gray?) market. I have to learn much more.
Another consideration is that the primary user of this equipment will be my 110 lb. wife.
I could use the extra utility for getting rid of snow and moving stone, but that would be rare. My main concerns are mowing a lawn and bumpy, wet field. I'd like to spend $4-5K for everything I need, but I could consider a few K more with financing.
Still learning and thanks again.

 

[BruceR]

Look into Yanmar, maybe 1100 or 1300. Would fit your budget after adding a mower to it. Great little workhorse and very dependable. Stay away from the "factory reconditioned" varity though.

Bruce