Satoh 650G dilemma
- Thread starter sruman
- Start date
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hawks000
Member
try going to NAPA or somewhere & get some engine flush. sounds like the block has gotten some blockage.you stated the mechnic said your radiator was kinda full... well this has to go trough your block as well. Also you could try running it w\o a thermostat. if it still over heats (since you ruled out radiator) then it has to be water pump or blockage in the block. by chance ... what color is the water each time you take hte hoses off if it's rusty colored then good chance it's blockage...one more thing... i have ran a wter hose backwards through the motor & got it to clear a blockage before.. just a thought
good stuff guys, good stuff.
I am planning on flushing the block, but not sure how. I'm trying to figure this out now. i did run some radiator flush through before the radiator was re-cored. Is there a good strong solvent to use? Recommendations are welcome.
I determined to get this. It's driving me crazy.
After flushing (once I get a good method), I do plan on running without a thermo, for testing purposes. Then I'll put the thermo back in, when it starts to get colder temperatures here is Pa.
Anyone got any homemade or recommend block flush procedures, since I have the pump and everything else tore off? Let me know. I did order another water pump to put on. At least to compare mine too. I really don't think this is the issue though, but I've been wrong before.
Thanks you all your help. Much, much appreciated.
I am planning on flushing the block, but not sure how. I'm trying to figure this out now. i did run some radiator flush through before the radiator was re-cored. Is there a good strong solvent to use? Recommendations are welcome.
I determined to get this. It's driving me crazy.
After flushing (once I get a good method), I do plan on running without a thermo, for testing purposes. Then I'll put the thermo back in, when it starts to get colder temperatures here is Pa.
Anyone got any homemade or recommend block flush procedures, since I have the pump and everything else tore off? Let me know. I did order another water pump to put on. At least to compare mine too. I really don't think this is the issue though, but I've been wrong before.
Thanks you all your help. Much, much appreciated.
How To Remove Rust on Metal Car Part Safely & Quickly - YouTube
Remove Rust from Metal and Panels the Easy Way: Video 1 - YouTube
Molasses rust remover converter - YouTube
you put it back together fill it with water do not install the thermostat add prestone super flush .run the engine for the chemical to ciculate. or you can try the molasses and water. after a while remove the hoses from the rad and use a water hose to flush out the system.repeat this until you are satisified with the clean.
Remove Rust from Metal and Panels the Easy Way: Video 1 - YouTube
Molasses rust remover converter - YouTube
you put it back together fill it with water do not install the thermostat add prestone super flush .run the engine for the chemical to ciculate. or you can try the molasses and water. after a while remove the hoses from the rad and use a water hose to flush out the system.repeat this until you are satisified with the clean.
J_J
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2003
- Messages
- 18,952
- Location
- JACKSONVILLE, FL
- Tractor
- Power-Trac 1445, KUBOTA B-9200HST
No one has mentioned the radiator cap. It must be correct and tight. They are rated at certain pressures, and allows the water to go above 212 degrees without boiling.
I believe I would add another sender unit or mechanical sending unit to double check the temp.
In hot weather you really don't need a thermostat. They are designed to allow the engine to heat up to the correct operating temp.
Are there any bubbles in the radiator with the radiator cap off with engine at operating temp.
Is the hyd radiator separate from the water radiator, or is it on the bottom of the radiator?
I believe I would add another sender unit or mechanical sending unit to double check the temp.
In hot weather you really don't need a thermostat. They are designed to allow the engine to heat up to the correct operating temp.
Are there any bubbles in the radiator with the radiator cap off with engine at operating temp.
Is the hyd radiator separate from the water radiator, or is it on the bottom of the radiator?
J_J
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2003
- Messages
- 18,952
- Location
- JACKSONVILLE, FL
- Tractor
- Power-Trac 1445, KUBOTA B-9200HST
You mentioned the 3pt lever was in the till position. If that is with the 3pt lever in the full down position, bring it back up some to the neutral position.
Ok. Here's my conclusion on the "over heating issue".
First of all, the sending unit placement is on the intake. Horrible design. And quite honestly, I've never seen an intake with water ducts built into it, but I'm not an expert.
The sending unit, again, heated up and turned on the light. So, I took a meat thermometer, pulled off the radiator cap, and stuck it in the water. 140 degrees. Took it out, drove for a while, came back in, test again: 148 degrees.
Now, keep in mind, this is with a new water pump, a re-cored radiator, a new sending unit, and with the thermostat taken out. Also worth noting, no smoke, no bubbles, and no misses in the engine.
One person posted it could be because it's running "lean". Not sure what to test there.
From here, I'm putting in a manual guage to monitor the temperature, just to be done with it.
Next I'll be asking about how to rebuild a valve control assembly, but that coming later.
Thanks for everyone's help and patience. Great site, get advice.
First of all, the sending unit placement is on the intake. Horrible design. And quite honestly, I've never seen an intake with water ducts built into it, but I'm not an expert.
The sending unit, again, heated up and turned on the light. So, I took a meat thermometer, pulled off the radiator cap, and stuck it in the water. 140 degrees. Took it out, drove for a while, came back in, test again: 148 degrees.
Now, keep in mind, this is with a new water pump, a re-cored radiator, a new sending unit, and with the thermostat taken out. Also worth noting, no smoke, no bubbles, and no misses in the engine.
One person posted it could be because it's running "lean". Not sure what to test there.
From here, I'm putting in a manual guage to monitor the temperature, just to be done with it.
Next I'll be asking about how to rebuild a valve control assembly, but that coming later.
Thanks for everyone's help and patience. Great site, get advice.
