Saw Chain care and sharpening tips?

[eddie48]

Yes, very simple design. Just taped a piece of 1/4 cu tubing lengthwise to the motor with a 1/4" tube attached. That goes to a small valve, that I happened to have laying around the shop and plug that into the airline. I just crack the valve a little bit to get a good airstream without blowing things all around. The cu tube lets me bend the end to point it directly at the tooth being sharpened. When I had my repair shop, and sharpened lots of chains, I found that cooling the wheel and tooth let me cut faster without burning and also made the wheel last much longer before I had to have it replated.

 

[eddie48]

Yes, very simple design. Just taped a piece of 1/4 cu tubing lengthwise to the motor with a 1/4" tube attached. That goes to a small valve, that I happened to have laying around the shop and plug that into the airline. I just crack the valve a little bit to get a good airstream without blowing things all around. The cu tube lets me bend the end to point it directly at the tooth being sharpened. When I had my repair shop, and sharpened lots of chains, I found that cooling the wheel and tooth let me cut faster without burning and also made the wheel last much longer before I had to have it replated.

 

[ericm979]

That's a neat idea.

 

[plowhog]

fyi Timberline chain saw sharpener is $20 off on Baileys.com right now ....

 

[dodge man]

A short story to share. My 23 year old son cut up quite a bit of wood for me, the chain was pretty sharp when he started. I told him keep the thing out of the dirt. I find I usually do a quick hand sharpening every tank or two of fuel. Well he probably went through 3 or 4 tanks of fuel or more. When I used it next it was still cutting great, nice sized chips. I thought for once in my life he listened. Of course half way through my first tank of fuel I got the thing in the dirt and hit a rock or something and dulled the crap out of it. Do as I say, not as I do!

 

[FTG-05]

I have an Oregon Model 110 electric bench chain grinder with a diamond wheel. I bought it used from a Stihl dealer going out of business. For several years, this is what I used to sharpen my chains. Pretty easy, except for having to remove the chain from the saw. But the bigger problem is I also bought a used MS-180 chainsaw from them as well. The diamond grinding wheel is too big for the -180.

Hence I bought one of these in the appropriate size:

It worked so well and was so easy to use, I bought one for my MS-362CM chainsaw. Now, I just run this file for a couple minutes during chainsawing breaks and haven't used the bench grinder in a year or so. I'm thinking of CLing it.

 

[kthompson]

I have the same saw also. I bought the Stihl sharping kit for mine. It includes a round file with a guide, a file for the rakers, and a gauge. You just set the gauge on the chain and if the rakers stick up to far, it shows up. I've filed mine a little bit over the years. Most of the time I sharpen mine by hand but I also have a dremmel style tool for when it gets really dull.

I second the Stihl sharping kit.

 

[FreedomFamilyFarms]

I second the Stihl sharping kit.

I took the Stihl kit out a few weeks ago. Didn’t have a vice in the field which made using it awkward. I picked up one of the small vices you pound into a log or stump to hold the bar. Looking forward to the next excursion...

 

[FredH]

I use the Harbor Freight sharpener and have for years , Without any issue's . I use a chain for multiple cutting times , until I see shavings getting different or saw cutting changes , then change for a sharp chain . Unlike the way shops sharpen chains , I take the time to sharpen each tooth individually rather than set by the worst and grind rest off . Takes longer , maybe 20 minutes , but chain is precise and cuts like new . I run full skip chains , thus half the number of cutters . Not a pro by any means , Just cut my own wood . Mostly hardwood , oak and a pacific northwest wood called madrone or laurel . Usually , full skips are used in the woods on softwoods due to their faster cutting , I like using for same reason , although in hardwood .

Everyone has their own opinion and ways , No ones is more right or more wrong in my opinion , it is just what works for each person . And as I stated , I prefer full skip . They are not for people who cannot focus 100% on eactly what you are doing . A lot higher risk of kickback or pullin's using that type chain , but it is what I prefer . I run them on my 441 on either a 25" or a 28" bar .

Fred H.

 

[crazyal]

When I was a kid all I had was a file with one of those flat bars that the file slides into it and 10 cords of slab wood to cut up in the middle of summer with a Mini Mac. You quickly learn what makes your life easier to avoid a dull chain in 90f temps. Now I use a cordless variable speed Dremel. It can go into the woods with me in it's plastic case. I also use thread cutting oil that comes in a spray can for pipe on the teeth as I sharpen them. With the Dremel I can slow it down to avoid heating the teeth up and do a quick touch up or speed it up and repair damage from a rock. If you learn how to sharpen by hand it's easy to do but I wouldn't suggest starting off with a Dremel as you get the angles all wrong. The jigs to use with a hand file look nice but since switching to the Dremel I would never use it. I did buy one of those HF specials and used it on two teeth and threw it into the scrap pile. Too much work and the wheel was much corser than the Dremel. I only pull the chain when the bar needs cleaning so sharpening on the bar makes sense for me. Usually I go through a couple tanks between sharpenings as long as there's not too much dirt on the logs. If you get to a point where you are sharpening after each tank then chances are you overheated the blade lost the temper on the teeth. If your saw seams to start off cutting straight but by the end of the cut it's curved (making the face of the log look like a ski jump) chances are your bar needs to be replaced.