Rotary Cutter Say No to Rear Bands on Rotary Cutters, Get Chains!

   / Say No to Rear Bands on Rotary Cutters, Get Chains! #1  

Tractorable

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Marshall, Va
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Tractorless, 2022 F350 Tremor, 24ft Diamond C HDT Equipment Trailer, 1980 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40
Today, for the second time this year, I bent the rear metal band on my bush hog backing up into a small low cut stump hiding in the grass, causing the blades to impact the back of the bush hog.

Last time I spent a lot of time repairing it, this time I’m just going to remove it all together and order a set of rear chains.

What a PITA these rear bands are. They also don’t let material flow out from under the bush hog very well.

Just venting after busting my equipment....
 
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   / Say No to Rear Bands on Rotary Cutters, Get Chains! #2  
I've been eyeing the thing on my landpride and it looks mighty flimsy. It's also not covering much. If I take it off, the mower deck has just a little turn up in the middle that would open up.
 
   / Say No to Rear Bands on Rotary Cutters, Get Chains! #3  
Chain guards are a must on mower IMO. We only have mowers with chains guards here. We also use chains instead of blades for the cutting, that will throw big things, really far away. A band guard wouldn't last 3 hours.

It won't get all bent up when reversing over hidden stumps, rocks and etc.

It allow for a better spreading of the mowed stuff.

IMG_20171004_150933.jpg
 
   / Say No to Rear Bands on Rotary Cutters, Get Chains! #4  
I've been looking at rotary cutters for several years now. Just can't swallow that large $$$ outlay and pull the trigger. I see the advantages to chains and would be getting them on anything I would purchase.

I just wonder - why is a set of chains so God Awful expensive. Right now my choice would be - Rhino TW35 @ around $4000. A set of chains for this cutter would add almost $1000.
 
   / Say No to Rear Bands on Rotary Cutters, Get Chains! #5  
Chain guards are a must on mower IMO. We only have mowers with chains guards here. We also use chains instead of blades for the cutting, that will throw big things, really far away. A band guard wouldn't last 3 hours.

It won't get all bent up when reversing over hidden stumps, rocks and etc.

It allow for a better spreading of the mowed stuff.

View attachment 614590

Could you tell us more about how your mower is set up with chains instead of blades and what advantage chains are to you over blades. Maybe a picture too. Thanks.

gg
 
   / Say No to Rear Bands on Rotary Cutters, Get Chains! #6  
I agree on the chains. I tried the rubber guard bands and while I didn't have the problems about bending things or backing into stumps, the guards got torn and were more of a problem than a help. Chains are the only way to go, but they are not perfect. I've still had material thrown out from under it.
 
   / Say No to Rear Bands on Rotary Cutters, Get Chains! #7  
Chain guards are a must on mower IMO. We only have mowers with chains guards here. We also use chains instead of blades for the cutting, that will throw big things, really far away. A band guard wouldn't last 3 hours.

It won't get all bent up when reversing over hidden stumps, rocks and etc.

It allow for a better spreading of the mowed stuff.

View attachment 614590

No tail wheel, chains instead of blades, chain guards,.....very interesting rig. Nice.
 
   / Say No to Rear Bands on Rotary Cutters, Get Chains! #8  
Learned that pretty quick, I managed to bend mine, but we have hydraulic press and they look like new. We grew up farming, so bent stuff is not unusual.
 
   / Say No to Rear Bands on Rotary Cutters, Get Chains! #9  
Could you tell us more about how your mower is set up with chains instead of blades and what advantage chains are to you over blades. Maybe a picture too. Thanks.

gg

First, let me clarify that those mowers are never intended to use as finish mowers. They are mowers built for land clearing. They will eat everything in their way.

The reasons we use high strength chains, instead of blades are that chains can handle rocks easier than blades and chains will also shred the brush to pieces. But then again, it's not a finish mower and won't leave a nice finish. The small chain we use is 3/4" high strength chain. It will get bigger size chain with bigger mowers.

We run our brush mowers hard. We use them as true brush mowers instead of a finish mower. Having a tail wheel, would mean that it would be destroyed in a matter of a couple hours. We back these things up close to walls, trees and some hidden stuff that we can't even see. These mowers are built simpler and strong.

Most manufacturers will offer 3 model ranges:

Light duty usually built with 1/4" thick steel.
Medium duty usually built with 5/16" thick steel
And Heavy duty built with 3/8" or more thick steel.

As far as prices, mine is a light duty (which is still really strong) 4.5 ft and cost me about 700$

Most models come with 2 chains, but we can also add another 2 chains making a total of 4. Usually used with higher HP tractors. There are also some manufacturers that make a spindle for 3 chains but it limits you to always use 3 chains. Others also have side shift ability.

Depending on the brush in the land that is being cleared, some people will carry a set of blades and chains. They just select whatever fit the job better.

Chains will eat lots of HP, so we just get the mowers either the width of the tractor or about a foot smaller, depending on the tractor's HP.

corta mato correntes.jpg2164168839-capinadeira-corta-mato-de-trator-reforcada-1-40m.jpgsideshift.jpg
 
   / Say No to Rear Bands on Rotary Cutters, Get Chains! #10  
First, let me clarify that those mowers are never intended to use as finish mowers. They are mowers built for land clearing. They will eat everything in their way.

The reasons we use high strength chains, instead of blades are that chains can handle rocks easier than blades and chains will also shred the brush to pieces. But then again, it's not a finish mower and won't leave a nice finish. The small chain we use is 3/4" high strength chain. It will get bigger size chain with bigger mowers.

We run our brush mowers hard. We use them as true brush mowers instead of a finish mower. Having a tail wheel, would mean that it would be destroyed in a matter of a couple hours. We back these things up close to walls, trees and some hidden stuff that we can't even see. These mowers are built simpler and strong.

Most manufacturers will offer 3 model ranges:

Light duty usually built with 1/4" thick steel.
Medium duty usually built with 5/16" thick steel
And Heavy duty built with 3/8" or more thick steel.

As far as prices, mine is a light duty (which is still really strong) 4.5 ft and cost me about 700$

Most models come with 2 chains, but we can also add another 2 chains making a total of 4. Usually used with higher HP tractors. There are also some manufacturers that make a spindle for 3 chains but it limits you to always use 3 chains. Others also have side shift ability.

Depending on the brush in the land that is being cleared, some people will carry a set of blades and chains. They just select whatever fit the job better.

Chains will eat lots of HP, so we just get the mowers either the width of the tractor or about a foot smaller, depending on the tractor's HP.

View attachment 614667View attachment 614668View attachment 614669

It doesn't seem like chains would work for the 2" saplings I hog.
 
 
 
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