425 hours, lately it has been more difficult to start. Normally it would start right up and go. Now it starts maybe 2nd try and runs rough for the first 30 sec or so. It will idle up to full RPM but falls flat with any load and will almost stall. I normally idle around 1K and warm it up 5 min before moving. After running at a fast idle (1200 RPM) for about 25-30 min it will work normally. I am not sure if I am getting full power, but everything seems to be working once it is hot. I have changed the air filter and the fuel/water separator filter. Where else should I look?
SC2400 no power when cold *bonus SB52 pic*
- Thread starter PViL
- Start date
![20231223_153151[1].jpg](/forums/data/attachments/739/739802-f95acde79bbc37fd026641de0c6214d5.jpg)
msb1766
Platinum Member
Clogged filter, bad fuel, bad fuel pump?
There is a fuel filter that is before the fuel pump. do you use the glow plug?
Here is the parts of the fuel system and part numbers:
Cub Cadet Sc2400 (54A) 54AEA4N-727 54AEA4NO727 54AEA4NP727 54AEA4NQ727 54AEA4NR727 54AFA4N-727 54AFA4NO727 54AFA4NP727 54AFA4NQ727 54AFA4NR727 54AGA4N-727 54AGA4NO727 54AGA4NP727 54AGA4NQ727 54AGA4NR727 Parts Diagrams
There is a fuel filter that is before the fuel pump. do you use the glow plug?
Here is the parts of the fuel system and part numbers:
Cub Cadet Sc2400 (54A) 54AEA4N-727 54AEA4NO727 54AEA4NP727 54AEA4NQ727 54AEA4NR727 54AFA4N-727 54AFA4NO727 54AFA4NP727 54AFA4NQ727 54AFA4NR727 54AGA4N-727 54AGA4NO727 54AGA4NP727 54AGA4NQ727 54AGA4NR727 Parts Diagrams
@msb1766 Thanks!
It was the fuel filter on the other side of the pump. Pretty easy fix. I ordered the new filter and when I went to change it, I found the one I had bought a few years ago. Now I have a spare.
I also noticed in the manual the part about not storing fuel in galvanized containers. The metal fuel can I was using has been replaced with plastic.
It runs great now.
It was the fuel filter on the other side of the pump. Pretty easy fix. I ordered the new filter and when I went to change it, I found the one I had bought a few years ago. Now I have a spare.
I also noticed in the manual the part about not storing fuel in galvanized containers. The metal fuel can I was using has been replaced with plastic.
It runs great now.
bmaverick
Elite Member
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2013
- Messages
- 4,634
- Location
- Beloit-WI
- Tractor
- Yanmar YM2610 ■YANMAR GURU■ EXTRAORDINAIRE
You are 100% correct. do not use cans nor tanks with galvanized metal.
Yanmar mentions this for their Marine engines too. When I'm at estate sales, I've come across old and imported galvanized Gerry fuel cans. Nope, nada, do not buy them nor want them. And if they are painted on the outside, use a tactical pen light to look inside.
Even if the Gerry fuel can looks safe, check the cap!
For diesel, these are ideal, just keep them out of direct sunlight.
5030
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2003
- Messages
- 24,650
- Location
- SE Michigan in the middle of nowhere
- Tractor
- Kubota M9000 HDCC3 M9000 HDC
Too bad they have the lousy EPA mandates spouts. Some brands are worse that others but they are all somewhat bad.
bmaverick
Elite Member
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2013
- Messages
- 4,634
- Location
- Beloit-WI
- Tractor
- Yanmar YM2610 ■YANMAR GURU■ EXTRAORDINAIRE
Yep.
I have a few of the 1st gen EPA spouts Blitz made. Those are the only ones that really work. The new ones today are really crap.
When I spot any of those early Blitz cans with the right spout at garage sales, I tend to snag them.
My tractor model has the diesel fuel cap atop of the hood. Its sort of a pain at first to fill, yet now I have a system to not waste fuel nor get it all over the place.
This is the only workable one out there,
I do not like the dumb spring loaded on the Stens, I make a mess every time and waste fuel,
And the really stupid ones with the base green twist neck are the worse, B+S uses it all the time.