School me on liquid filled tires

2fast2 · Sep 30, 2010

To me the biggest advantage (other than rust) with Rim Guard is that I can remain tubeless and plug small leaks with a tire kit in the field. Tubes also cost quite a bit.

In our area it gets down to -30 F and colder each winter. I don't trust the methanol to remain viable over time....and I'm not too sure about the pink antifreeze after several years either. /QUOTE]

Agree with you about going tubeless for ease of plugging leaks. And I agree with Rimguard if you can afford it, as it is about 25% heavier per gallon than water / methanol and has a low freezing point. But water / methanol is what is used around here, and has been for a long time, by the big tractor dealers and by the mobile Ag-service tire business who did mine. In a sealed system, nothing bad should happen. I suppose if you get the concentration too high, the cost and potential corrosion become considerations.

stevefromindiana · Sep 30, 2010

DanD78 said:
Steve, Did the dealer tell you this or was it in the manual. I looked all over in the manual for my 3320 and found nothing so I put Rim Guard in the fronts when I did the rears. So far no issues with a little over 100 hours sense filled.

Dan D.

At this link you will find a link to Excel spreadsheets to help calculate ballast. Tractor Ballast Calculator

If you open the one for CUT's and go to the tab for 3X20's, it says "Fluid not recommended for Front tires" when you get to the drop down box for the Fluid filled fronts.

I guess this isn't like reading it in a manual, therefore I wanted to find out the reason that they had put this here.

What Gary Fowler said makes sense to me. It seems like putting weight in the tires does nothing to the axle. I can see it putting more strain on the gearing. I would think running R1's versus R4's would put more strain on the gearing than running ballasted R4's.

DanD78 · Oct 11, 2010

Steve, Thanks for letting me know. I think I will leave it in. Just think how much strain a bucket fill of rock puts on the axles when you drive around. I agree the weight of the fluid is not on the axle so it makes me feel better for what that is worth.

Dan

1972 · Oct 11, 2010

So what IS the best thing to put in for ballast? My tractor is just two years old and the dealer put in calcium before I got it. They put it straight into the wheel and didn't use a tube. I like the calcium because of the weight, and where I live it gets COLD (30 - 35 below is not all that uncommon) so I need something that will not freeze.

I'm thinking of getting custom rims made and if I do I'll make them use a tube when putting the calcium back in. If I go with spacers instead of custom rims I think I'll have them take the wheels apart anyway, put tubes in, and put them back together. I don't really want that calcium up against my rims.

RoyJackson · Oct 12, 2010

1972 said:
So what IS the best thing to put in for ballast? My tractor is just two years old and the dealer put in calcium before I got it. They put it straight into the wheel and didn't use a tube. I like the calcium because of the weight, and where I live it gets COLD (30 - 35 below is not all that uncommon) so I need something that will not freeze.

I'm thinking of getting custom rims made and if I do I'll make them use a tube when putting the calcium back in. If I go with spacers instead of custom rims I think I'll have them take the wheels apart anyway, put tubes in, and put them back together. I don't really want that calcium up against my rims.

Might want to use RV Antifreeze. I don't think Windshield Washer fluid could go that cold without freezing up.
I'd say you've got a good plan...stick with the CaCl and tubes. As long as the rim is fully immersed with the solution, rust won't be a problem.

stlbill · Oct 12, 2010

Hi all:

For the poll this thread will soon become... I am using Rim Guard. All things considered I find it to be cheap.

-Bill

stevefromindiana · Oct 13, 2010

I just had Rim Guard put into the rears of my 3520. 29 gallons each. $3.25 per gallon installed. I used Rim Guard primarily since I didn't want the worry if it all leaked out of one of them for some reason. (other than my money going down the drain!)

Mechanos · Jan 7, 2011

Reviving an older thread, but....

Earlier in this thread, I inquired about loading the front tires of a 955. I finally got my hands on a 70A loader manual and browsing through it. In the section of the manual on prepping the tractor for the loader, it states (for a 955) to fill the rear tires with fluid, 3 rear wheel weights per side, and attach a full ballast box (712 lbs). That's a lot of rear weight.

The manual goes on to say "To help prevent front tire failure caused by heavy loads and punctures, see your John Deere dealer to have urethane foam installed in tires." I've inquired about foam filling tires in the past... it's more expensive than filling with Rim Gaurd, but it is also heavier than Rim Gaurd. When I inquired about filling a set of 23x12.50x12 tires for a lawn tractor... Rim Gaurd would add about 75 lbs per tire, while foam filling would add about 105 lbs. per tire.

Based on this statement in the 70A manual, it appears that JD does not see a problem with loading the front tires on a 955 (or any of the x55 series).

Ductape · Jan 8, 2011

I don't eat much for beets.......... so forgive me for being ignorant. Why doesn't beet juice freeze?

Also, my BIL has been tractor shopping. He claims he has run into a couple dealers use a citrus product for filling tires. Anyone farmiliar with the product? I assume it being so acidic that keeps it from freezing?