Ballast scrap the quik-tatch front weights - better idea!!

   / scrap the quik-tatch front weights - better idea!! #1  

jdepetri2210

Bronze Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2004
Messages
52
Tractor
JD 2210
When using the snowblower or the front blade, steering can be an issue when traveling up a grade. This is particularly true when you have rear ballast in use. The problem is that the front end is too light. The quik-tatch front weights can not be used when the snowblower or blade is being used. Here is a cheap, effective solution to the problem. see attached picture. I used a 1 inch threaded rod sleeved through the square tube of the front hood guard.
 

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   / scrap the quik-tatch front weights - better idea!! #2  
The 'float' doesn't work? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
   / scrap the quik-tatch front weights - better idea!! #3  
Guarantees you and the tractor will stay in shape! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
   / scrap the quik-tatch front weights - better idea!! #4  
jdepetri,

Clever. But I'm curious, why would you have rear ballast on while plowing or blowing? I know I use my 2210 with the blower and have no issues with steering -- but I don't use rear ballast then. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
 
   / scrap the quik-tatch front weights - better idea!!
  • Thread Starter
#5  
JDFANATIC

I issue begins with the long STEEP grades that I am working with. For productivity reasons I need to work the machine both up and down the hills. The front blade reqires more ballast than the snowblower because it can be PUSHING heavy wet snow/slush up a hill. So you add rear ballast and you gain the traction that you need to resolve the pushing problem but now you have a steering problem. Adding some front ballast corrects the steering problem.
 
   / scrap the quik-tatch front weights - better idea!! #6  
jdepetri2210,

I see. Are your rear tires loaded? I run RimGuard in mine. It adds something like 107# per tire. I have a steep hill and with the blower have never had any problems. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
 
   / scrap the quik-tatch front weights - better idea!! #7  
When that condition happens, I lift up slightly on the blade to just 'carry' it, and the traction quickly comes back to the front wheels. That uses the weight of the blade as well as the weight of the snow.

But whatever works for you, is good. And it is a clever idea with the weights on the front.
 
   / scrap the quik-tatch front weights - better idea!! #8  
Neat idea, I like it. One thing with your rear ballast, if you had it the form of wheel weights or filled tires, your steering wouldnt be as light. Assuming your ballast is on the 3PH, it puts weight on the rears but takes it off the fronts. Weighted wheels (whatever the means) would not do this, and you wouldnt lose steering due to ballast this way.
 
   / scrap the quik-tatch front weights - better idea!!
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Good feedback on the filled tires - weight distribution is better for sure. Perhaps this will save one individual out there from buying the quik-tatch front weights. I feel that JD really soaks ya on some of these accessories. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
   / scrap the quik-tatch front weights - better idea!! #10  
I like the simplicity and cost of your solution.

Here's one I use on my rear blade, when using the FEL. My RB is a bit light when trying to offset a full load in the FEL, especially if I'm loading from a slight downhill angle.

This is not my concept. Another frequent contributor suggested the weights. I just found that the storgage leg rod happens to be just the right diameter (~ 1") to fit cheap 25 lb. weights from Walmart (~$13 ea.). I'm sure a yard sale would be an even better deal. Now I just need to give them a little green paint /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif. Cheers.

Tom
 

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