Rear Blade Scrape blade width for my tractor?

[clemsonfor]

read the first post, but not much else so it may have been mentioned.

While the Box blade folows the angle of the tractor, you can adjust your arms to angle it moving the left or right side higher on the BB. If your talking about angling the blade so part of the blade is farther foward then your out of luck with a bb!

 

[Baby Grand]

I have never changed where my top link attaches to the tractor from the top hole. I would think the top hole would give the greater lift, but haven't really thought about it. Some of the implements I have also have an upper or lower hole.

...

I found that the lower hole allows me to lift my potato plow enough that I don't scalp the field grass on the trip from the shed to the potato hills. It also seems to run the plow a bit deeper set in the lower hole. I think it amplifies the motion of the rockshaft thru the 4 bar linkage.

-Jim

 

[/pine]

...I have 2 holes for the top link at the tractor frame. I don't know why there are 2 or which one would give me more lift...

My manual says the top hole (1) is "standard"...

it states: "(2) is used only when there is some obstacle that prevents you from using the standard"

I moved my top link cylinder to the lower hole to give more clearance for the check valve and hoses when the lift is raised all the way up...

 

[Gordon Gould]

A box blade is a wonderful tool but if you need to move material across the road a rear blade is the only way to go (IMO). One pass with an angled rear blade will move more material across the road than 10 passes with a box blade.
You have been given alot of good ideas on blade width but one thing that hasn't been mentioned is that if the blade is to wide you cant turn it around backwards without hitting your tires. It is very handy using a rear blade backwards for smoothing. Of course you could do that in reverse gear. My tire width is 5' and my blade 6', offsettable by a foot. This seems about right for road work.

 

[Johndeere3720]

I also have a boxblade and rear blade. here's a video of my rear blade working the driveway. I gotta say that gauge wheels make a word of a difference for me. Using my blade on the driveway - Tractor Videos - Kubota, John Deere, New Holland and More For tilt, i just ajust the right lift arm length and set the top link to desired length/dig. With the gauge wheels, i can use them to determine if i wnat to dig a lot or just scrape snow off the driveway. Very simple to use and it is very affective, especially with 6 40 pound weights on it. My gauge wheels can pivot for turns or lock in place for use in reverse or with the weights. they bolt to the blade with only 2 bolts so they are easy to remove if needed.

 

[Gordon Gould]

I set the tilt on my blade differently than most I have seen here. And it seems a lot easier to me. If you need tilt on the blade, that means you want to move material from one part of the road to another. Usually from the edge to the center to build a crown. I put the tractor on a level place raise the blade a inch or so off the ground in the straight position (90 degrees to centerline) and adjust the right liftarm height so the blade is perfectly parallel to the flat surface ( level ). Then I rotate the blade to the angle I intend to use for grading. I then adjust the top link ( usually shorten, which will pick up the back and lower the front of the blade) to set the angle for the new road contour. By doing this no matter which way the blade is angled, left or right, you will develope the same contour cutting angle. You can run up and down both sides of the road in either direction with out making any adjustments other than swingimng the blade. Then if you want to go down the middle of the road to flatten the crown a little, just put the blade straight and it is level.

 

[brucewj]

Gordon that is really good information. I never thought about that.

Thanks for posting this.

 

[slaveToHorses]

I have never changed where my top link attaches to the tractor from the top hole. I would think the top hole would give the greater lift, but haven't really thought about it. Some of the implements I have also have an upper or lower hole.

It is actually the other way around. At least on all the machines I have worked with.
If you look at a 3pt hitch from the side, you can see that the pivot point for the implement (blade) is where the pins (on the blade) attach to the lower arms of the 3pt. The maximum distance from the ground to the pivot point is solely determined by the rotational angle of the rockshaft and the length of the lift links. They determine the angle upwards of the lower arms.This assumes that lift arms and lower arms have a fixed length, which is the usual case.

The top link determines the angle of the implement, at the pivot point. As the lower arms raise, they work against the top link and force the attachment to pivot back (thus lowering the back of the blade). The reverse happens when the arms lower the attachment. So, if you lower the attachment point of the top link at the tractor, you will change the way the implement rotates about the pivot point. The lower the attachment point for the top link at the tractor, the less the implement rotates back. The result is the more clearance between the ground and the back blade, at the back of the blade.

The relationship between the top link attachment point and it's length is as follows. The attachment point changes the relation between the rotational angle and the lower arm lift angle. The length of the top link changes the minimum and maximum amount of rotation.

So, in general, use the length of the top link to determine the angle of the blade when down on the ground. Use the top link attachment point to alter the angle of the blade when it is fully raised.

Now if everything is perfectly square, in other words if the vertical line drawn up from the point where the lower arms attach to the tractor intersects the point where the top link attaches to the tractor and the same is true for the attachment points on the implement and the length of the lower arms and the top link is the same and the vertical distance between attachment points is the same at the tractor as it is on the implement, then the implement will maintain the same angle as the lower arms and no rotation will occur. That is the neutral position.

 

[Oldmax]

I have a 27HP FWD tractor and use a 6' blade . It will suprize you how much those little tractors will pull. If you go over 6' you have to take blade off to turn around.

 

[oldballs]

Me thinks the "slave To Horses" is a geometry teacher. I still go to sleep with that much detail. But many thanks for the info.