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Scraper or Grading blade?
- Thread starter YLee Kioti
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YLee Kioti
Veteran Member
probably got lost in my long ramble but do have a BB. A six footer 650 pounder that will be use to remove the spoils.
The plan is to build up slowly, soak it, let it dry up a bit and set then repeat until said height.
So from where pic is taken down to where you can see topsoil past the stubbed up water spigot is about a 2 1/2 foot or so drop.
The footprint will be about a 60ft by 60 ft. about 15 feet past the water spigot.
Looks like I'll be going with the six foot 50 series. reread the posts and dealer also came back to me and came up with the same answer all you folks did. And got my answer so thanks for all this.
Nuther happy ending...:thumbsup:
Utility Rear Blades | Rhino Ag
The plan is to build up slowly, soak it, let it dry up a bit and set then repeat until said height.
So from where pic is taken down to where you can see topsoil past the stubbed up water spigot is about a 2 1/2 foot or so drop.
The footprint will be about a 60ft by 60 ft. about 15 feet past the water spigot.
Looks like I'll be going with the six foot 50 series. reread the posts and dealer also came back to me and came up with the same answer all you folks did. And got my answer so thanks for all this.
Nuther happy ending...:thumbsup:
Utility Rear Blades | Rhino Ag
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YLee Kioti
Veteran Member
well, looking at about 8 to 12 truck loads for now.
It'll be done in small stages, four truck loads at a time.
AllByteNoBark
Gold Member
I can see where that could be manageable. Our pad for the house and shop was quite a bit bigger due to how we did things. Raised it around and between the buildings so we could control the water better.
Good luck with your project. look forward to some photos.
Good luck with your project. look forward to some photos.
OP
YLee Kioti
Veteran Member
Thanks...
Dealer emailed me and has a 6' Titan.
gonna measure the trailer and see if a 7 footer with blade at an angle will squeeze in...heh...if not well okidoki a 6 footer it will be.
Appreciate everyone's help.
Now to the chalk board to learn how to spell scrapper........:laughing:
Dealer emailed me and has a 6' Titan.
gonna measure the trailer and see if a 7 footer with blade at an angle will squeeze in...heh...if not well okidoki a 6 footer it will be.
Appreciate everyone's help.
Now to the chalk board to learn how to spell scrapper........:laughing:
Underdog57
Veteran Member
That really made me Laugh out loud!!!! Good one. :laughing:
Overtaxed
New Member
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2016
- Messages
- 371
- Location
- Gaffney, SC
- Tractor
- Kioti NX6010, JD 2720 w/46BH, Honda Pioneer 1000
IMHO, if you want to move virgin dirt around, a rear blade (heavy one) is the way to go. I can back up, drop the blade and just start rolling soil/sod/whatever up with my rear blade. I can cut ditches with it, pulling 12" deep in one pass in a lot of places. It's a "dirt cutting" tool. My box blade is a "dirt moving" tool. Yes, I can cut with the BB too, but it's much, much slower than the rear blade. There's an EA video out there where Ted and Peanut are using a BIG box blade (like 1 ton blade) with a huge tractor and ripping down to soil. It does the job, but it takes a lot of passes to pull the sod off, and it's not moving dirt from point A to B, it's picking up dirt and leveling it.
I do a lot of trail maintenance, any my typical order is 1 pass on either side of the trail with the rear blade angled and tilted, cutting a big ditch and pulling all the spoil onto the trail. Then, after that, I'll hook up the BB and smooth all the ripped up soil back down into a nice trail. I'll generally make a few passes with the BB to do this, tilting it further and further back each time (so that it rides more and more on the rear blade and picks up less material) to get a nice smooth surface. If I'm showing off, I'll then pull a chain drag over it to get it really nice, but the rear blade + BB gets me a ditched and smooth trail.
I could do it all with the rear blade. I really think that a big rear blade is the more "do everything" attachment in this class (especially if it is has tilt/angle/offset adjustment and even more so if you have shoes and end plates). It can do whatever a box blade can (well, except for cutting in reverse), but it's not nearly as good as the BB in certain tasks. The BB is much better at some things (smoothing, distributing gravel) and can do a lot of what the rear blade can do (generally slower). So it all depends, in my case, I knew I needed more ditching and less smoothing, so I spent more money on the rear blade and have a good, but relatively inexpensive BB. I'm happy with the mix for me, but if I was moving crush and run all day, that wouldn't be the right way to go.
Others have already said it, but WEIGHT! And, if you wind up with the rear blade, I'd add "hydro adjustment!" to the must have list. My blade would be much less useful if I didn't have tilt/angle adjustments from the seat, yes, I could still do it, but I wouldn't, it would be too much of a PITA to cut down miles of trail and adjust the blade every time the slope/angles changed.
Here's a video of me rolling up a trail with the rear blade:
Bison NB8-24 More Ditching - YouTube
Bison NB8 -24 Pulling a ditch in hard clay - YouTube
And then, after that, I'd run the BB down it to take the hump out and lay everything down nice and flat.
I do a lot of trail maintenance, any my typical order is 1 pass on either side of the trail with the rear blade angled and tilted, cutting a big ditch and pulling all the spoil onto the trail. Then, after that, I'll hook up the BB and smooth all the ripped up soil back down into a nice trail. I'll generally make a few passes with the BB to do this, tilting it further and further back each time (so that it rides more and more on the rear blade and picks up less material) to get a nice smooth surface. If I'm showing off, I'll then pull a chain drag over it to get it really nice, but the rear blade + BB gets me a ditched and smooth trail.
I could do it all with the rear blade. I really think that a big rear blade is the more "do everything" attachment in this class (especially if it is has tilt/angle/offset adjustment and even more so if you have shoes and end plates). It can do whatever a box blade can (well, except for cutting in reverse), but it's not nearly as good as the BB in certain tasks. The BB is much better at some things (smoothing, distributing gravel) and can do a lot of what the rear blade can do (generally slower). So it all depends, in my case, I knew I needed more ditching and less smoothing, so I spent more money on the rear blade and have a good, but relatively inexpensive BB. I'm happy with the mix for me, but if I was moving crush and run all day, that wouldn't be the right way to go.
Others have already said it, but WEIGHT! And, if you wind up with the rear blade, I'd add "hydro adjustment!" to the must have list. My blade would be much less useful if I didn't have tilt/angle adjustments from the seat, yes, I could still do it, but I wouldn't, it would be too much of a PITA to cut down miles of trail and adjust the blade every time the slope/angles changed.
Here's a video of me rolling up a trail with the rear blade:
Bison NB8-24 More Ditching - YouTube
Bison NB8 -24 Pulling a ditch in hard clay - YouTube
And then, after that, I'd run the BB down it to take the hump out and lay everything down nice and flat.
OP
YLee Kioti
Veteran Member
RE: Overtaxed:
Yup, agreed......just finished winter cut of our crick...(let's see if it changes to creek.....heh
).
So as the contour is revealed the rear blade uses just kept flowing.
Once all the winter cutting is done there will be no shortage of blade work coming up...woo-hoo....
yeah, I actually do look forward to this because many parts of the creek has a high drop off and will remove the high points.
Thanks for the links.
Yup, agreed......just finished winter cut of our crick...(let's see if it changes to creek.....heh
).So as the contour is revealed the rear blade uses just kept flowing.
Once all the winter cutting is done there will be no shortage of blade work coming up...woo-hoo....
yeah, I actually do look forward to this because many parts of the creek has a high drop off and will remove the high points.
Thanks for the links.
sandman2234
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2005
- Messages
- 6,649
- Location
- Jacksonville, Florida
- Tractor
- JD2555 and a few Allis Chalmers and now one Kubota
I am always amazed when people say a land plane, 3 point grader, etc wont move material. My homemade grader is 7 foot and will move more dirt at a time than my 6 foot boxblade. In fact, it will fill up and be more than my 2wd JD2555 wants to pull. It may be just my design or the dirt we have here, but it will move a lot of dirt. I have considered putting a rear door on it, to increase the capacity of carrying dirt, but then i would have to buy a bigger tractor!
David from jax
David from jax
oosik
Epic Contributor
Sandman - it must be the design of your "scrapper". My Land Pride GS2584 ( LPGS ) will move a lot of dirt also - UP & DOWN. But NOT horizontally or laterally.
That's the reason I went from a 560# rear blade to my current rear blade. Rhino 950 @ 1050#. It DOES NOT jitter & jingle as I pull it down the driveway or across virgin ground. The added weight causes the blade to dig in and cut an 8 foot swath.
That's the reason I went from a 560# rear blade to my current rear blade. Rhino 950 @ 1050#. It DOES NOT jitter & jingle as I pull it down the driveway or across virgin ground. The added weight causes the blade to dig in and cut an 8 foot swath.
