Screw In Engine

[Anonymous Poster]

Hey all,
I got a ariens rear tine tiller with a 7hp tecumseh on it. Problem is that last month i was running it and the screw that holds the metal flap(sorry dont know proper terms) on the choke that restricts the air flow must have vibrated loose. Anyway the metal flap remained in the carburator and the screw got sucked into the intake. I later found the screw imbedded in the metal plate above the cylinder. There was no obvious damage that i could see, but the engine will no longer run. I took it to the shop and he told me he would have an estimate in 2 weeks, well its been over a month and i called him today and he told me exactly what i told him what was wrong with it when i took it. That is the screw got sucked in. But he also added that i need a new engine. My question is what kind of damage could this have done? I know major damage is possible but im not sure if this guy even looked at the tiller. Im gonna pick it up from him tomorrow and take it to another place to see what they have to say.
Another thing is that he said it would cost me 3-500 for a new engine "if i can get one". This tiller is worth more than that in my opinion but it is 14 years old. If i were to replace the engine, do i need to find the exact replacement or are there others that may work with it.

sorry for being so long
but im frustrated and the tiller is not mine so i need it fixed as soon as possible

thanks
james

 

[Anonymous Poster]

James,
Have a look at http://www.NothernTool.com

They have about the best selection of small aircooled engines with the best prices you're going to find.
As far as the motor fitting, as long as the output shaft size is the same, most small aircooled motors in the HP size range will fit.
I think that the Tecumseh 6,7,8,10 HP will all interchange.

 

[Molerj]

Hi James,
First off, I find it hard to believe that the engine is shot, but lets look a little farther first.
<font color=blue> I later found the screw imbedded in the metal plate above the cylinder. There was no obvious damage that i could see, but the engine will no longer run
<font color=black> Did you replace the butterfly valve that came loose? If you did & it will still not run, lets check for spark. If you have a spark tester, use it, otherwise remove the plug & ground it against the engine & pull the recoil to see if you have spark. If you do, fuel would be the next check, make sure it is fresh (drain it if it is more than 30 days old) & you are getting fuel to the engine. You can try squirting gas directly in the carb. I use a small chainsaw oil container with a small hole drilled in the top. If the engine trys to start, then I would suspect a carb. problem. Also you have to make sure you have compression. A quick check without a compression tester is to pull the recoil with the plug in. It should pull with resistance, like it did before it quit. If there is no compression, there are other things that we would have to look at. A leakdown test could tell you alot. It is a tool that puts air from an air compressor into the engine with the piston a TDC. Where air leaks out will tell you where there is a problem. Removing the head will let you look at the cylinder & top of the piston to see obvious damage. (I assume you already did that). If you do need a new engine you can do a short block which would be cheaper. Check this place. Also if you still have questions & want some more advice try here

 

[Rick572]

James,

this has happened to me twice on my troy-built 8 horse tiller and both times I removed the head, removed the screw which was stuck on the head, fixed the carb, and it ran fine. Both times when the screw came loose the engine went to an over speed mode and I managed to shut the engine down quickly. I now pull the carb one a year and check the screws in the carb to see if they are tight. I don't know, but unless you continued to run your tiller, I'd bet you don't not need a new engine.

Rick

 

[gerard]

Rick, If the screw keeps coming loose can't you use some lock tite or similar product or won't that work in your situation?

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Hey all, thanks for the responses.
I found out the problem(or rather the shop did). At first they just wanted to throw another engine on it (have no idea why??). But i told them id pay the labor just break it down and look at it a little more. Main reason i didnt want a new engine was this is a HH70 tecumseh engine(cast iron) and they dont make them like that anymore. Anyway the problem was a bent ehaust valve. Replaced that and its running great. total cost=$68

thanks
james

 

[Molerj]

James,
Glad you got it fixed. Did they tell you how the exhaust valve got bent?

 

[TresCrows]

I wonder if it might have been the screw--that bent the exhaust valve. /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif . J

 

[njrqs]

We had a 1969 Torana once, with a bolt INSIDE the intake manifold. It came loose and it went along and bounced around on top of the valves until it was nice and shiny. Wore all the threads off !

Problem was, the washer went into the cylinder and bouned around for a while. Closed the gap on 2 plugs until it broke an exhaust valve spring. We regapped the plugs and off we went, For about 1000km until we fixed the valve.

So yep, that is surely what buggered your valve up.

Loose bits of steel don't go real well inside an engine !

Cheers

<font color=blue>Neil from OZ.</font color=blue> /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[turnkey4099]

Ay Yeh, been there and this is gonna date me. Back in HS my and my buddy were screwing around in his 34 chev. 1st to rev and tossing gravel when a big bang and noise. Tore it down and found an entire piston missing. Only one scratch on the cylinder wall but no sign of the remains of the piston. It must have all gone out the exhaust.
Also had the electrode from the plug break off in my 360 homelite chainsaw. What a noise. Shut down, tore down and found it welded to the cylinder head and the the piston edges peened down all around locking the ring. New piston/rod assembly and all AOK again.

Harry K