SCUT FEL bucket tooth bar, what size

[Alesandro]

Hello,

So I want to try and build my own SCUT FEL bucket tooth bar. I believe I have all the tools needed so why not. My question is with my tractor being so small will the design actually hinder the performance? The tractor only weighs about 1,300 lbs with me on it, I'll probably leave the rototiller on the 3 point hitch for ballast. Check out my bucket tooth drawings and let me know if you think one design will work better than the other based on the weight of the tractor.

Thanks for the help.View attachment BUCKET TOOTH BAR, 04.20.17.pdf

 

[Alesandro]

hmmm, how do I make it so you don't have to download it

 

[Alesandro]

OK lets try this, this worked

 

[texasranger556]

What are you planning to do with your tooth bar? What type of soil are you dealing with? Is it going to be removable?

 

[Alesandro]

What are you planning to do with your tooth bar? What type of soil are you dealing with? Is it going to be removable?

I will mostly be moving dirt around my little property. Some if it is grass and some is just dirt but I have a lot of clay content so its a hard top pan. This will be removable.

 

[oztractornut]

Alesandro, i am contemplating exactly the same thing for my Bobcat 310 although my plan is to weld mine on to replace the existing edge, I do not beleive it could hinder you at all and should improve the performance. I have no experience with the likes of this style toothbar and i have only used std toothed buckets on larger machines. I think will be a well worthwhile addition

 

[dragoneggs]

Would be sweet if you could get some hardened steel but that poses other processing issues.

 

[boggen]

*rubs chin* i would go with 5/8" rebar and weld them to a bar, and then mount the bar on the FEL.

the rebar would poke down into dirt. then you could pry up the dirt some hopefully being able to break any hard pan you will encounter. then backup tractor then drive forward hopefully being able to keep on going as you fill the bucket with dirt.

if you have a hard time getting a "spade, bull nose / round shovel, flat end shovel" to go through ground, with you standing on top of the shovel with your weight on it. a short tooth bar may not do the trick on a light weight machine.

for example the Ford 333 TLB (tractor loader backhoe) 80HP. the only way i can even think of breaking some hard pan (top 1" to 3" of dirt). is using the backhoe that has teeth on it. which is memory serves is 1"x 1" square flatened down to 1/4" or slightly thicker edge. and only has 4 to 5 teeth. and in summer when things are dry. it takes entire weight of machine lifting rear end off ground to initially get busted into the hard pan.

once i am under the hard pan. the object is trying to keep either FEL or backhoe bucket cutting edge just under the hard pan, so can keep scooping up the hard pan, but pushing it upwards causing it to crack and crumble.

the other times i have issue with just generic flat cutting edge of FEL. is once i am past the hard pan. and i am trying to scrap a couple inches off the top to fill bucket with dirt. this normally results in FEL bucket doing hop skip and jump across the dirt. i need something that goes under the dirt 1" maybe 4" long and causes the dirt to lift up some and not really "score" / place marks / chicken scratchs within the dirt. once i cause that initial lifting up and cracking of dirt per say. it is easy peasy, but until that happens it is a lot of extra effort and work to get to that point.

with above said your bottom diagram. with more of a longer single point that is not dull like your bottom diaram. and non of the extra smaller points.

as you hope up on top of the edge of a spade / bull nose / flat shovel. and wobble back and forth trying to get the shovel to go down in the dirt. what happens to the dirt. you want your tooth bar on FEL to do the same.push the dirt upwards, and as it does so. cause one high spot in center of each tooth and low spot on each side of the tooth. to get a better attack angle of the dirt.

 

[Alesandro]

*rubs chin* i would go with 5/8" rebar and weld them to a bar, and then mount the bar on the FEL.

the rebar would poke down into dirt. then you could pry up the dirt some hopefully being able to break any hard pan you will encounter. then backup tractor then drive forward hopefully being able to keep on going as you fill the bucket with dirt.

Is rebar strong enough to not bend? I know the tractor is not heavy and I don't have a mass amount of hydraulic pressure, I just thought rebar was soft.

 

[boggen]

Is rebar strong enough to not bend? I know the tractor is not heavy and I don't have a mass amount of hydraulic pressure, I just thought rebar was soft.

my bad only thing i could think of last night, and only thing going through my mind was trying to get more focus on a sharper point. to get the less weight of tractor to push through hard pan.

L channel and cutting it at an angle. so you create a spear end. (triangle support built in per say, with an open bottom.)

L channel above, with a small flat bar (say 1/4 to 1/2 thick, to 1/2 to 3/4" wide, on bottom side, that sticks out some.

2 pieces of flat bar. same as above but instead of L channel use a flat bar to form more of a T with the bottom piece.

5/8 maybe 3/4" rebar 3 pieces, one piece stacked on top of the other piece to form a triangle. with some tack welds here and there.

=======
i think you will be happier with longer single teeth that stick out like a fork (you use to eat with). vs a flat bar, that has lots of cuts in it to form teeth that looks like a (steak knife)
not super long teeth. longer teeth = bend quicker. but something you can pry with some and work the bucket. to short of teeth and you are right back to having a straight edge.