Sealing up a pole building

[CTyler]

I have a 50x64x12 Pole building that was insulated when built. The insulation is between the poles/wood and metal siding. This is a Cleary building, similar to Astro, Morten etc..

I have a problem with rain and snow in the winter time getting the insulation wet when its blowing. The top 2x4, not treated, also shows several places where is has gotten wet. There isn't any standing water or anything like that in the shop. However if its' not corrected it will start rotting the wood over time. Besides I want to cover the inside with drywall.

There is a small gap between the metal roofing and the siding that needs to get sealed up. What should I use to keep the moisture out? I'm not sure if a expanding foam would hold and or repel the water.

I need to look closely to see exactly how big the gap is up there. I'm guessing its to much gap to silicone.

 

[beenthere]

Just be sure that it is rain and snow, and not condensation that is causing the 'wet' wood. Important to have a well ventilated area between the insulation and the cold 'wall' or roof to avoid the dreaded condensation. A good moisture barrier on the warm side of the insulation for any area heated is also important, without any gaps or breaks for the moisture to get through to the cold area (difficult to do, but pretty important).

 

[CTyler]

Its not a condensation problem I keep it between 50-60% humidity with a dehumidifier. During the winter the wood stove drops it to the 30% range. The whole shop is insulated and has open trusses, no attic area.

I got up on the ladder tonight and the gap is smaller than was anticipated. There is a 1/4-3/8 gap between the roof sheeting and the drip edge. The gap is obviously bigger where the metal is corregated, about 1 inch. The fiberglass insualtion is exposed. So the blowing rain and/or snow has a direct shot at it. The roof sheeting overhang is only an in or so. The spots where the wood got wet is where they were a tad short on the insualtion. So the roof sheeting barely clamped onto the edge of the insulation.

What would be the best thing to use to seal the gap? I was thinking silicone. Pehaps I should use an actual caulk like Vulkem. Vulkem-20(?) is what I used on the house when we built it. Still have half a case left sitting someplace.

 

[CTyler]

After re-reading my first post I should have clarified that it happens in the summer when raining hard and blowing hard. Snow really isn't much of an issue. Its has t be really wet and blowing hard to make it stick up there. There are only a few spots around the shop that I have seen the problem. 90% plus of the shop is ok but I may as well do it all instead of half way.

 

[Holzster]

go to this link: http://www.muellerinc.com/accessories/closures.php

they are Meuller steele - good comapny they have a couple if items for ya

 

[Piedmont3]

Holzter has the right idea. We had to do the same thing to my dad's barn about 9 years ago. A local steel supply house had about 30 different shapes of pieces to fit different profiles of steel. When we got there we could not agree on exactly what his looked like. we went back and traced it on a piece of cardboard, and went back to get the pieces. Turned out neither of us were right about the profile.

 

[CTyler]

I didn't know they was such a thing, wish I knew when they were building it. Nobody mentioned anything about it either.

Here is a closeup pic.

 

[spanky8N]

My pole barn was built about two years ago and they used a foam tape that is narrow and every 24" (or so) it is larger to fit in the ridges. The foam tape is listed in Holzster's link. Looking at your pic, I believe it would fit perfectly!
Dan

 

[EddieWalker]

Those closures work pretty good, but not perfect. I'd only rate them at about 90 to 95% at keeping out water in strong storms.

If you decide to use them, you should know they are self adhesive and will be very difficult to slide into position with the glue grabing onto the metal.

I've had great success with expanding foam. Be sure that your edges are screwed down tight, or the foam will lift your metal panals!!! Also, just use a little, as it will expand and fill up every gap.

Once it dries, cut off the excess with a hacksaw blade. No saw, just the blade. Gives you a nice flush finish that you can paint to match. If it's too rough, you can smooth it out with some caulking first, then paint.

The best price I've found for the expanding foam is at Wal-Mart.

 

[CTyler]

I'll have to get some pricing on the formed stuff. Looking in the shop I've got 1/2+ case left of Vulkem 116 which will work on this.

Thanks everyone for you help.
Chris