Sears, Roebuck Craftmen Arc. Welder

   / Sears, Roebuck Craftmen Arc. Welder #11  
I run 3/32 6011 around 50 to 60 amps, but that is on DC!

It may help to get some 1/8, you'll be able to see that stack of dimes look easier with 1/8. Will make it a lot easier to see your mistakes. :D

12510PPlus.jpg
 
   / Sears, Roebuck Craftmen Arc. Welder
  • Thread Starter
#12  
First one I don't ever run on AC except for Tig welding aluminum. But I do like Hobart's 6011. Most people turn their nose up at 6011, so I did a little testing.
Shield Arc, I see you've done this a few times:thumbsup:Awesome!!
I wish I could just learn how to stick two pieces together without the worry of the weld failing.
You say you never run on AC . Am I thinking that somewhere I've read about heat , AC heats up the metal more and DC keeps most of the heat in the rod? I'm not sure really what the two means. I see I've got alot to learn ,maybe finding a class on welding would be the way to go, but , I'm a hands on kinda person so until I do I'll play around some. One more thing, why do people turn up there nose to 6011? I was told that you can weld though rust and not have to worry about using old stuff you find.
Is it the strength of the weld or what? Sorry to be asking newbie stuff.
 
   / Sears, Roebuck Craftmen Arc. Welder #13  
Sorry to be asking newbie stuff.

Ask away.

People who think they have a clue, as old welders get it their mind that 6010, and 7018 are the only rods to use. So I did that little test to put them in there place. On the whole if a weld can take being bent 180 that is fairly good.

I've worked with several welders who never had formal training. In fact years ago I worked with a guy who his mother taught him how to weld, she worked in the ship yards during WW2.

Get some metal and have at it. I suggest you take two pieces and tack them together like a T. Weld one side, place it in your vice and beat it towards the weld, (weak way) this will show you how much penetration your welds are getting.

BFHtest.jpg
 
   / Sears, Roebuck Craftmen Arc. Welder #14  
Check out Youtube for some basic arc welding how-to videos. There is some good stuff out there. :thumbsup:
 
   / Sears, Roebuck Craftmen Arc. Welder
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Thanks all !!:thumbsup:
You know if the little lady wasn't sleeping, I'd haul out the old welder and have at it . If I wake her up ,there's no way in .... she would buy me a new helmet . Better play it safe tonight .
When I get to play, I'll see if I can get some pics so you can get a good kick out of it , and maybe can help me out more.
 
   / Sears, Roebuck Craftmen Arc. Welder #16  
I bought a 220v Craftsman in the mid 60s. I still have it and still use it. It works as good as the day I got it. When I moved to the mountains permenetly in 72 I brought about 200lbs of rod with me. I haven't used it all yet. I think you have a good little machine.

Richard
 
   / Sears, Roebuck Craftmen Arc. Welder
  • Thread Starter
#17  
I bought a 220v Craftsman in the mid 60s. I still have it and still use it. It works as good as the day I got it. When I moved to the mountains permenetly in 72 I brought about 200lbs of rod with me. I haven't used it all yet. I think you have a good little machine.

Richard
Thanks for your reply! How are you keeping your rods ? Any tips you can pass on would be greatful !
 
   / Sears, Roebuck Craftmen Arc. Welder #18  
I bought a 220v Craftsman in the mid 60s. I still have it and still use it. It works as good as the day I got it.
Not sure about craftsmen, but in the 70's Montgomery Wards sold a lot of welders that were re-badged Lincolns.








How are you keeping your rods ? Any tips you can pass on would be greatful !
You can buy plastic containers with screw on tops. Or wrap them in plastic garbage bag. Just try to keep the excess moisture away from them. 6010, and 6011 like a little moisture. Unlike 7018, 7018 runs best when hot right out of the oven.
Rod.jpg
 
   / Sears, Roebuck Craftmen Arc. Welder #20  
Best way for you to know something,is to try it yourself,try welding on ac than try dc,you'll see why dc is better,you don't really need to know why:D But on ac,you are half welding compared to dc[to make it short.] [forgot to add,,that is dc positive,or dcep,stinger cable connected to +,,,you can also do it the other way,dcen,stinger connected to -,,most generally its always dcep,but you could try it all ways,dcep,dcen,and ac,and see what the differences are.]

As far as welding on rust,sure you can,,but you won't see any body on a pipe job that is going to be x-rayed,[whose job is on the line],making a weld on rusty,dirty,greasy paint on,pipe joint. So,there is a reason for cleaning your weld area,,and the only reason I can think that somebody at home or on the farm not cleaning their weld area before welding,is their welds wouldn't show any difference either way:laughing:

The first two numbers on a rod,give the tensile of the rod[6011,6010 is 60,000,],,7018 is 70,000],,,but about any thing your average fixer upper will be welding on,,a 60xx rod will beat,,you also have other factors to consider as well,,yeild strength for example,,and if using a 7018 rod,if its not kept in a rod oven at the right temp from time can is opened through out,it ain't lo hi any mores,so,,,many negatives against using 7018 for your average home welder as opposed to using a non lo/hi rod[60xx]
 
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