nikdfish
Platinum Member
The seat on the 2010 3038e was getting past due for replacement. There was a split in the cushion, the cushion was separating from the metal pan, and the metal pan had more rust than paint.
Seats for the 3038e have changed over time. My seat used sheet metal tabs for mounting to the seat base with a pin. Later model seats use mounts molded into the seat pan and a longer pin to accomodate those mounts. My seat had the presence switch assembly integrated into the metal pan. Later seats use a different style replaceable switch assembly.
After looking at JD prices for seat replacement components (~$300), I went third party. I found a compatable replacement seat from Eparts (on Amazon) for $125 and a complete presence switch for $16. I picked up a plated 3/8" rod at Lowe's for about $7 to diy a replacement pin.
This is the old seat
The seat pin is too long to remove without unbolting the seat base. Two 10mm bolts at the front, two 13mm bolts at the rear. You have to slide the seat a bit for access to each.
The old seat after removal.
The old pin compared to the replacement seat mounts.
My diy replacement pin
The replacement seat with pin and presence switch installed
Presence switch wiring in place. The switch is for jumpering when the chipper is used. I actually installed that manual switch one winter when the seat froze hard & would not allow operation until I jumpered the circuit.
The finished product. I'll have to rig a mount for the slow moving vehicle placard sometime.
I tested the function of the presence switch using the PTO. It worked fine. I went out & mowed some and tested again & it continues to work properly. The seat feels a bit different from the old one, but not bad. It keeps you from sliding front/back as much as the old one. I also feel like I might be sitting an inch or two higher than with the old seat.
Seats for the 3038e have changed over time. My seat used sheet metal tabs for mounting to the seat base with a pin. Later model seats use mounts molded into the seat pan and a longer pin to accomodate those mounts. My seat had the presence switch assembly integrated into the metal pan. Later seats use a different style replaceable switch assembly.
After looking at JD prices for seat replacement components (~$300), I went third party. I found a compatable replacement seat from Eparts (on Amazon) for $125 and a complete presence switch for $16. I picked up a plated 3/8" rod at Lowe's for about $7 to diy a replacement pin.
This is the old seat
The seat pin is too long to remove without unbolting the seat base. Two 10mm bolts at the front, two 13mm bolts at the rear. You have to slide the seat a bit for access to each.
The old seat after removal.
The old pin compared to the replacement seat mounts.
My diy replacement pin
The replacement seat with pin and presence switch installed
Presence switch wiring in place. The switch is for jumpering when the chipper is used. I actually installed that manual switch one winter when the seat froze hard & would not allow operation until I jumpered the circuit.
The finished product. I'll have to rig a mount for the slow moving vehicle placard sometime.
I tested the function of the presence switch using the PTO. It worked fine. I went out & mowed some and tested again & it continues to work properly. The seat feels a bit different from the old one, but not bad. It keeps you from sliding front/back as much as the old one. I also feel like I might be sitting an inch or two higher than with the old seat.
