Seat Switch?

[JC-jetro]

A simple KISS solution might be to simply tightly wrap electrical tape around the switch to keep the contacts closed.

Pilon,

That's what I suggested earlier but Jim explained the switch is embedded in the seat cushion with the hole in the pan and a matching stud on the bottom to activate the switch. there are many types of momentary switch and on some it is quite easy to fake it by using a piece of tape or even better wit plastic zip tie to lock it in either open or closed position where it only takes a side cutter and 5 seconds to remove temporary control scheme.

JC,

 

[jinman]

Pilon,

That's what I suggested earlier but Jim explained the switch is embedded in the seat cushion with the hole in the pan and a matching stud on the bottom to activate the switch. there are many types of momentary switch and on some it is quite easy to fake it by using a piece of tape or even better wit plastic zip tie to lock it in either open or closed position where it only takes a side cutter and 5 seconds to remove temporary control scheme.

JC,

I did say that earlier, and I should say that I don't know for sure that the switch cannot be removed or adjusted so it stays shut all the time. I did look at one at the dealer, but I wasn't thinking of taking it out and didn't look closely enough to see if the whole assy could easily be removed from the seat. All I saw was a connector with several wires plugged into the bottom of the seat pan and up inside a recess.

EDIT: I just went to the NH parts site and checked on the seat switch. It is replaceable and is part number 87385234 . If you wanted to buy a spare switch, close it by some method, and unplug the connector from the bottom of your seat and plug it into the new switch you altered, you could do that. It will only cost you the price of the switch ($32). I still think jumpers in the connector is easier to do if you use spade connectors.

 

[Ford850]

I thought about jumping my switch at first but had a close call. I have EHSS so that makes a difference, I know. I flipped it to neutral and jumped off the tractor in one motion. The problem was I missed the neutral position and just as it started to move I was already out of my seat and half off the tractor. The tractor stalled due to the seat switch.
But, I would still like to stand when operating at times. I would like to see a platform mounted foot switch that worked in tandem with the seat switch. That would allow me to depress the switch with my foot, then stand and get a better view when operating. Has anyone done this? It seems like it would be a nice option from the manufacturer that still keeps the "operator presence" safety criteria.

 

[JC-jetro]

I thought about jumping my switch at first but had a close call. I have EHSS so that makes a difference, I know. I flipped it to neutral and jumped off the tractor in one motion. The problem was I missed the neutral position and just as it started to move I was already out of my seat and half off the tractor. The tractor stalled due to the seat switch.
But, I would still like to stand when operating at times. I would like to see a platform mounted foot switch that worked in tandem with the seat switch. That would allow me to depress the switch with my foot, then stand and get a better view when operating. Has anyone done this? It seems like it would be a nice option from the manufacturer that still keeps the "operator presence" safety criteria.

Along that Line, and in pursuit of safety I could install a NC switch that is held open by special key that is tethered to my belt so if I'm fall off, thrown or jump to automatically kill the engine. same as what you have in boats. The only issue is I don't have fuel shut off solenoid with my old Ford 1700. I don't know if any one has done it but should not be too difficult to add fuel cut off valve in line to the injector. I know guys have mentioned several time they stand up on the tractor to see better what they do (I.e using a pallet fork). standing up without seat belt and your ROPS is as Good as not having one, so should you pass out, fall out or ejected from your seat the tethered safety fuel shut off can kill the engine right away.


JC,

 

[Paul2000]

I installed two switches on mine so I can bypass it when I want to, but put it back on if I feel the need or someone else is using the tractor. I felt I was going to wear the starter and transmission shifting lever out getting on and off the tractor to throw a stick out of the way while mowing. Getting on and off it to run the backhoe, or throw something into the bucket or onto the forks. Safety police will just have to write me a ticket. I in no way suggest someone else do this, but I am old enough to make the decision good or bad. I bypassed the seat switch and the gear shifter. If it were a gear tractor I would not start it in gear. The hydrostat in low or high range with the pedal not pressed does not even load the starter down. I will not bypass the pto switch because it would be very dangerous. The load would surely damage something, aside from it being very dangerous. I never start it unless I am in the seat ready to drive. Point is, instead of shorting around these safety switches, I mounted my switches below the seat on my left and they can be engaged in a second if I feel the need. I did use a standard switch and it has given me no problems for over 200 hours.

 

[airbiscuit]

Re: Seat Switch? this post helped me

I'm posting this pic on behalf of the OP, arksdad that shows part of the wiring diagram. He sent the wiring diagram. The diagram is not complete and does not show how the circuit continues but identifies enough. The seat switch is a double pole single throw variety and it is to do both PTO safety and engine kill. It looks to me that on the switch connector terminal #1 and #3 should be jumped to defeat seat safety circuit. Terminal #2 is used for stationary use of rear pto. Jim, do you concur?

JC,

I was all set to make a jumper, but first I sprayed the plug and switch contacts with electronics cleaner. That did the trick.