Seat Switch?

[jinman]

It was easier on the old tractor... Switch must go

Robert, if your seat is the old type with the switch below the back of the seat, then the picture below is the way to bypass the switch. Just remove the plug and jumper between the sockets. A normal spade connector on each end of a wire works perfectly.

 

[Carykong]

My seat switch went south on my TC35 as well. Actully the button switch closed the circuit so I could start the motor by depressing the button with my finger. The flange on the bottom of the seat apparently no longer put enough pressure on the button to close the circuit. Tried to bend the seat flange down for more pressure on the button but it broke off the seat. Looked like a couple of cheesy spot welds that holds the metal flange onto the bottom of the seat. No worries,I just jumped the plug with a wire as per Jinman. I really do not miss the seat safety switch.

 

[JC-jetro]

I'm posting this pic on behalf of the OP, arksdad that shows part of the wiring diagram. He sent the wiring diagram. The diagram is not complete and does not show how the circuit continues but identifies enough. The seat switch is a double pole single throw variety and it is to do both PTO safety and engine kill. It looks to me that on the switch connector terminal #1 and #3 should be jumped to defeat seat safety circuit. Terminal #2 is used for stationary use of rear pto. Jim, do you concur?

JC,

 

[jinman]

I'm posting this pic on behalf of the OP, arksdad that shows part of the wiring diagram. He sent the wiring diagram. The diagram is not complete and does not show how the circuit continues but identifies enough. The seat switch is a double pole single throw variety and it is to do both PTO safety and engine kill. It looks to me that on the switch connector terminal #1 and #3 should be jumped to defeat seat safety circuit. Terminal #2 is used for stationary use of rear pto. Jim, do you concur?

JC,

JC, it appears that pins #1 and #3 may do the trick, but I'd like to know where the other white wire goes from pin #4. The function of the PTO safety is to say if the PTO is off and the tractor in neutral with the parking brake set, the operator can get out of the seat. The functions for this are in the operator safety module which must be on another page. Therefore, I would say that to be certain the seat switch is fully bypased, I would remove the connector from the seat and jumper 1 to 3 and also 2 to 4. That's what the switch does when it closes. We should replicate that as closely as possible.

In addition, I would try to make a jumper with pins similar to the ones in the plug like I did with my seat switch in the earlier picture. You want to bypass the switch, but make it so that all you have to do is disconnect the jumpers and plug the switch back in for normal operation. Being able to easily return to a normal configuration might be handy if you are taking your tractor in to have it serviced. If your dealer sees a bypass, he might consider that as putting himself at risk. Returning the switch to normal while the tractor is serviced would be my choice to remove any risk to the dealer's shop.

 

[JC-jetro]

JC, it appears that pins #1 and #3 may do the trick, but I'd like to know where the other white wire goes from pin #4. The function of the PTO safety is to say if the PTO is off and the tractor in neutral with the parking brake set, the operator can get out of the seat. The functions for this are in the operator safety module which must be on another page. Therefore, I would say that to be certain the seat switch is fully bypased, I would remove the connector from the seat and jumper 1 to 3 and also 2 to 4. That's what the switch does when it closes. We should replicate that as closely as possible.

In addition, I would try to make a jumper with pins similar to the ones in the plug like I did with my seat switch in the earlier picture. You want to bypass the switch, but make it so that all you have to do is disconnect the jumpers and plug the switch back in for normal operation. Being able to easily return to a normal configuration might be handy if you are taking your tractor in to have it serviced. If your dealer sees a bypass, he might consider that as putting himself at risk. Returning the switch to normal while the tractor is serviced would be my choice to remove any risk to the dealer's shop.

Totally agree Jim, Original Poster had a bit of issue to upload the image to the forum page. If he wants to , he can still email the rest of the circuit to me and I will post it on his behalf. Two things come to my mind not seeing the setup from close.

1) can a guys just simply put a piece of tape to force the switch closed. He might be able to put a piece of tin over the switch with some lips, push the switch in , bend a tap to put it in place or hot glue it. In that way it is non invasive and will be totally reversible when he so chooses.

2)why not cut in to one of the lines external to the switch and put on/off rocker switch , or extend couple of leads and put a kill switch at an appropriate location. Doing so, and at will he can turn the safety on or off.

JC,


Edit. since the witch DPST, and one connector block, I think if he jumped two of the leads then he may not be able to push the connector in the socket. Externally it looks like one switch but doing two switch functions.

 

[jinman]

Totally agree Jim, Original Poster had a bit of issue to upload the image to the forum page. If he wants to , he can still email the rest of the circuit to me and I will post it on his behalf. Two things come to my mind not seeing the setup from close.

1) can a guys just simply put a piece of tape to force the switch closed. He might be able to put a piece of tin over the switch with some lips, push the switch in , bend a tap to put it in place or hot glue it. In that way it is non invasive and will be totally reversible when he so chooses.

2)why not cut in to one of the lines external to the switch and put on/off rocker switch , or extend couple of leads and put a kill switch at an appropriate location. Doing so, and at will he can turn the safety on or off.

JC,

JC, think of a seat pan with a hole cut into the middle. Up above the pan is a switch mounted inside the foam padding of the seat. Only a connector extends outside the the pan so that it can be inserted into the base of the switch. The switch operates when your buttocks apply pressure to the seat cushion and depress the switch. I don't think the switch can easily be removed from the bottom of the seat, but if it could, that could work also.

I try to stay away from making modifications to wiring if possible. I prefer to leave my wiring harnesses completely intact if I can do it. Many plugs fit onto spade style connectors and my preferred method for jumpers is to crimp on spades and insert them into the plug. Other people's preferences and skill levels might make them come up with another satisfactory solution, but I think mine wins the K-I-S-S principle contest.

 

[JC-jetro]

but I think mine wins the K-I-S-S principle contest.

Sounds good By the way, I am a card carrying member of KISS principal society I chair the local chapter:thumbsup:

 

[arksdad]

JC, I emailed a second diagram to you, I hope you get it OK and hope it's the one you wanted to see. Thanks for posting them for me!

 

[PILOON]

A simple KISS solution might be to simply tightly wrap electrical tape around the switch to keep the contacts closed.

A toggle switch wired in parallel to the seat switch would provide for a temporary bypass when used by the experienced owner.
It could even be a keyed switch to assure that no one else could disable the circuit

 

[JC-jetro]

JC, I emailed a second diagram to you, I hope you get it OK and hope it's the one you wanted to see. Thanks for posting them for me!

arksdad,

I got the pic and I uploaded it for you. unfortunately, it shows more of the safety components but it does not show the circuit we're looking for. Usually you can find a complete circuit on one larger page and component on small pages. A complete diagram sometime necessitate a bigger than 81/2"x11" sheet. sometimes that sheet might be a folded larger piece. Let see if anyone can comment to this new diagram. I still think you need to jump the circuit #1 and #3 like Jim suggested. My suggestion is that you get 4 pieces of wire same gage as your connector. Use one of the wire and crimp two spade connectors (male) and short our #1 and #3. use the other two wires and put crimp one male and one female connector to connect 2 ends of #2 on socket and it's terminal block. Do the same for #4. Notice that HC18 and HC 81 on the socket are connected together on connector #4 of the switch. Now you maintain the functionality of your pto safty, killed the seat sensor and it is totally reversible without any modification to wiring harness. If you don't have it, then you might want to invest on a crimper, a packet of spade connectors (male & female), some electrical tape and few feet of wire. The terminal block on the switch has female connector and male on the the socket connection. if you look at Jim's picture you see two spade connectors he crimped to a piece of wire. if you can take picture of switch and connector on your tractor we may be able to explain better.

JC,

 

[JC-jetro]

A simple KISS solution might be to simply tightly wrap electrical tape around the switch to keep the contacts closed.

Pilon,

That's what I suggested earlier but Jim explained the switch is embedded in the seat cushion with the hole in the pan and a matching stud on the bottom to activate the switch. there are many types of momentary switch and on some it is quite easy to fake it by using a piece of tape or even better wit plastic zip tie to lock it in either open or closed position where it only takes a side cutter and 5 seconds to remove temporary control scheme.

JC,

 

[jinman]

Pilon,

That's what I suggested earlier but Jim explained the switch is embedded in the seat cushion with the hole in the pan and a matching stud on the bottom to activate the switch. there are many types of momentary switch and on some it is quite easy to fake it by using a piece of tape or even better wit plastic zip tie to lock it in either open or closed position where it only takes a side cutter and 5 seconds to remove temporary control scheme.

JC,

I did say that earlier, and I should say that I don't know for sure that the switch cannot be removed or adjusted so it stays shut all the time. I did look at one at the dealer, but I wasn't thinking of taking it out and didn't look closely enough to see if the whole assy could easily be removed from the seat. All I saw was a connector with several wires plugged into the bottom of the seat pan and up inside a recess.

EDIT: I just went to the NH parts site and checked on the seat switch. It is replaceable and is part number 87385234 . If you wanted to buy a spare switch, close it by some method, and unplug the connector from the bottom of your seat and plug it into the new switch you altered, you could do that. It will only cost you the price of the switch ($32). I still think jumpers in the connector is easier to do if you use spade connectors.

 

[Ford850]

I thought about jumping my switch at first but had a close call. I have EHSS so that makes a difference, I know. I flipped it to neutral and jumped off the tractor in one motion. The problem was I missed the neutral position and just as it started to move I was already out of my seat and half off the tractor. The tractor stalled due to the seat switch.
But, I would still like to stand when operating at times. I would like to see a platform mounted foot switch that worked in tandem with the seat switch. That would allow me to depress the switch with my foot, then stand and get a better view when operating. Has anyone done this? It seems like it would be a nice option from the manufacturer that still keeps the "operator presence" safety criteria.

 

[JC-jetro]

I thought about jumping my switch at first but had a close call. I have EHSS so that makes a difference, I know. I flipped it to neutral and jumped off the tractor in one motion. The problem was I missed the neutral position and just as it started to move I was already out of my seat and half off the tractor. The tractor stalled due to the seat switch.
But, I would still like to stand when operating at times. I would like to see a platform mounted foot switch that worked in tandem with the seat switch. That would allow me to depress the switch with my foot, then stand and get a better view when operating. Has anyone done this? It seems like it would be a nice option from the manufacturer that still keeps the "operator presence" safety criteria.

Along that Line, and in pursuit of safety I could install a NC switch that is held open by special key that is tethered to my belt so if I'm fall off, thrown or jump to automatically kill the engine. same as what you have in boats. The only issue is I don't have fuel shut off solenoid with my old Ford 1700. I don't know if any one has done it but should not be too difficult to add fuel cut off valve in line to the injector. I know guys have mentioned several time they stand up on the tractor to see better what they do (I.e using a pallet fork). standing up without seat belt and your ROPS is as Good as not having one, so should you pass out, fall out or ejected from your seat the tethered safety fuel shut off can kill the engine right away.


JC,

 

[Paul2000]

I installed two switches on mine so I can bypass it when I want to, but put it back on if I feel the need or someone else is using the tractor. I felt I was going to wear the starter and transmission shifting lever out getting on and off the tractor to throw a stick out of the way while mowing. Getting on and off it to run the backhoe, or throw something into the bucket or onto the forks. Safety police will just have to write me a ticket. I in no way suggest someone else do this, but I am old enough to make the decision good or bad. I bypassed the seat switch and the gear shifter. If it were a gear tractor I would not start it in gear. The hydrostat in low or high range with the pedal not pressed does not even load the starter down. I will not bypass the pto switch because it would be very dangerous. The load would surely damage something, aside from it being very dangerous. I never start it unless I am in the seat ready to drive. Point is, instead of shorting around these safety switches, I mounted my switches below the seat on my left and they can be engaged in a second if I feel the need. I did use a standard switch and it has given me no problems for over 200 hours.

 

[airbiscuit]

Re: Seat Switch? this post helped me

I'm posting this pic on behalf of the OP, arksdad that shows part of the wiring diagram. He sent the wiring diagram. The diagram is not complete and does not show how the circuit continues but identifies enough. The seat switch is a double pole single throw variety and it is to do both PTO safety and engine kill. It looks to me that on the switch connector terminal #1 and #3 should be jumped to defeat seat safety circuit. Terminal #2 is used for stationary use of rear pto. Jim, do you concur?

JC,

I was all set to make a jumper, but first I sprayed the plug and switch contacts with electronics cleaner. That did the trick.