SmallChange
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2019
- Messages
- 753
- Tractor
- New Holland WM25 with 200LC front end loader, filled R4 tires 43X16.00-20 and 25X8.50-14 (had a Kubota B6200D with dozer and R1 tires)
I posted several years ago about my first experience roading my tractor. It was unnerving. I didn't account for how underpowered the machine was, trying to climb hills at a speed that motorists behind me might find a little more tolerable.
Yesterday I roaded it to a job my son-in-law was doing, 2.1 miles away. The goals included helping dig a trench, moving a big concrete well cover, and pulling a concrete ring out of the ground. Trying to be ready for anything, in addition to FEL bucket I brought my FEL forks and my 3pt counterweight, and chains and sledges and digging bars etc etc. With the rears filled, all this weighs a good 5,000 lbs, and the motor is only 25 horsepower. By way of comparison, my not-very-racy station wagon weighs 3,500 lbs and has a 182 hp motor, so the tractor should have a small fraction of the pep the station wagon has. We are talking seriously weak performance on the road. For ground engagement it's a fine little tractor, but it's amazing how going, say, 35 mph in a car really sucks up the power.
In top gear (12th) this tractor can do about 14 mph, but with only a slight uphill grade it grinds to a stall. I've driven this route countless times, but there were some uphill grades small enough I'd never noticed them, and the tractor couldn't climb them. I kept having to stop, choose a gear from 9 to 12 that I thought would work, and go up the hill. 9th gear worked on the worst climbs.
But it worked. I don't see doing it often, or far. People drive too fast on these narrow curving hilly country roads. However in the intervening years I had looked up the worst grades, and measured the grade on my driveway so I could compare, and I had some idea how tall a gear would work in each of the worst spots. I do have lights, including flashers, a well placed SMV placard, and insurance. I tried hard to drive safely, accounting for all the issues I could think of.
I completely get why bigger farm tractors that sometimes pull trailers on the road have to be so powerful.
Yesterday I roaded it to a job my son-in-law was doing, 2.1 miles away. The goals included helping dig a trench, moving a big concrete well cover, and pulling a concrete ring out of the ground. Trying to be ready for anything, in addition to FEL bucket I brought my FEL forks and my 3pt counterweight, and chains and sledges and digging bars etc etc. With the rears filled, all this weighs a good 5,000 lbs, and the motor is only 25 horsepower. By way of comparison, my not-very-racy station wagon weighs 3,500 lbs and has a 182 hp motor, so the tractor should have a small fraction of the pep the station wagon has. We are talking seriously weak performance on the road. For ground engagement it's a fine little tractor, but it's amazing how going, say, 35 mph in a car really sucks up the power.
In top gear (12th) this tractor can do about 14 mph, but with only a slight uphill grade it grinds to a stall. I've driven this route countless times, but there were some uphill grades small enough I'd never noticed them, and the tractor couldn't climb them. I kept having to stop, choose a gear from 9 to 12 that I thought would work, and go up the hill. 9th gear worked on the worst climbs.
But it worked. I don't see doing it often, or far. People drive too fast on these narrow curving hilly country roads. However in the intervening years I had looked up the worst grades, and measured the grade on my driveway so I could compare, and I had some idea how tall a gear would work in each of the worst spots. I do have lights, including flashers, a well placed SMV placard, and insurance. I tried hard to drive safely, accounting for all the issues I could think of.
I completely get why bigger farm tractors that sometimes pull trailers on the road have to be so powerful.