I'd like to create a 24'X100' seed bed from a flat piece of horse pasture. I'm not a farmer so I'm ignorant of the process of transforming the tall grassed pasture into a nice flat seed bed. Can someone go through the process including which implements to use for what purpose and in what order? The ground is currently a sandy loam and I'm sure I'll have to amend it. I'll be using a John Deere 3032E tractor. TYIA
Seed Bed Creation
- Thread starter ajllynco
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jeff9366
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I'd like to create a 24'X100' seed bed from a FLAT piece of horse pasture.
Mow the grass as short as possible. Scalp.
Spray the stubble with Roundup or generic Glycophosphate.
(Herbicide is most effective when the grass is growing vigorously.)
(In Florida pasture grasses are variations on Bahia. Bahia roots go down 6" to 9".
Unless herbicide is used, mechanically disturbed grass roots will rebound before garden seeds can get a good start.)
Wait ten days for herbicide to have effect, then dissipate.
When the soil is Moist but not wet, use a PTO powered roto-tiller to mix and level the soil.
Two passes with the PTO powered roto-tiller may be necessary.
Do not over till. Two passes should be sufficient.
Mow the grass as short as possible. Scalp.
Spray the stubble with Roundup or generic Glycophosphate.
(Herbicide is most effective when the grass is growing vigorously.)
(In Florida pasture grasses are variations on Bahia. Bahia roots go down 6" to 9".
Unless herbicide is used, mechanically disturbed grass roots will rebound before garden seeds can get a good start.)
Wait ten days for herbicide to have effect, then dissipate.
When the soil is Moist but not wet, use a PTO powered roto-tiller to mix and level the soil.
Two passes with the PTO powered roto-tiller may be necessary.
Do not over till. Two passes should be sufficient.
Last edited:
Agree with all, plus add a couple 50 pounds of lime between tiller one and tiller two pass. Depending on what you intend to plant in the seed bed I would also probably include with the lime a couple 50 pound bags of 10-10-10 fertilizer with the trace elements along with the lime.
jeff9366
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While not germane to your question, a soil test is the highest value way you can spend money to promote a successful new garden. Soil tests are about $8.00 each in Florida.
Amending soil without a soil test is flying blind. For instance, where I live in Florida soil pH is naturally very high ~ 7.5. The addition of lime without a soil test would raise pH even further, probably resulting in near zero seed germination to green stage.
Amending soil without a soil test is flying blind. For instance, where I live in Florida soil pH is naturally very high ~ 7.5. The addition of lime without a soil test would raise pH even further, probably resulting in near zero seed germination to green stage.
dirttoys
Platinum Member
This is spot on, and I think it is germane.
Get your soil test so the amendments can be done while you till. Know what you want to plant, fescue likes different ground than bermuda, and veggies all have their own tastes as well.
Tilling works well, if you are renting equipment, consider a harley rake, nothing makes a seed bed better.
Best,
ed
I'm planning to sell organic vegetables from this plot, won't Roundup affect the plants? Also, What is a Harley Rake? (Mentioned in comments )
What's a Harley rake?
dirttoys
Platinum Member
Powered box blade. Rotating drum with teeth. This one is for skid steer, they make a 3pt as well
RalphVa
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The really old method was to use a plow, disc or otherwise, followed by a multidisc and/or harrow/bed springs, etc. to level it out.
I've VERY thick, lush grass in the creek overflow area down below that I put a 50x75 garden in back around 2001 until about the end of 2012 and had to move it up here in raised beds because I got congestive heart failure.
Used a Gravely rotary plow. It did fine, not getting all that grass wrapped around the plow like would happen with a rotatiller unless you do what Jeff suggests.
When I got the 4wd JD in 2004, I used an old JD M soil ripper retrofitted to work on the 3ph followed by big opposed discs on the soil ripper bar to make raised rows. Don't think the soil ripper would have worked with all the grass that was there 4 years earlier.
I've VERY thick, lush grass in the creek overflow area down below that I put a 50x75 garden in back around 2001 until about the end of 2012 and had to move it up here in raised beds because I got congestive heart failure.
Used a Gravely rotary plow. It did fine, not getting all that grass wrapped around the plow like would happen with a rotatiller unless you do what Jeff suggests.
When I got the 4wd JD in 2004, I used an old JD M soil ripper retrofitted to work on the 3ph followed by big opposed discs on the soil ripper bar to make raised rows. Don't think the soil ripper would have worked with all the grass that was there 4 years earlier.