Seeding Procedure Advice

   / Seeding Procedure Advice #1  

Riddler

Gold Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2004
Messages
275
Location
Sonoma County, CA
Tractor
New Holland TN75VA, New Holland TC45DA, New Holland TC18
Although I have had my NH TC45DA for a few years now, I have used it mostly for construction type work, and to brush hog. Now I am facing seeding a cover crop (a mixture of fescue, clover and brome) over an 8 acre area, which will be covered with 3" of staw, all for erosion control purposes.

I will be discing the area this weekend. After that, my plan was to rent a spinner type broadcast spreader for the seed. After the seed is broadcast, what, if anything, should I be doing before a I rent a straw blower and cover the field with a layer of straw mulch? Can I simply disc it again, or do I have to run some type of harrow over it, to get the seed buried a bit?
 
   / Seeding Procedure Advice #2  
A lot of folks recommend dragging something to cover it up. A length of chain link fence, a harrow, your disk set at an inch or less and not aggressive. If you can find an old bed springs--the open metal kind, that would work.

Since it's for errosion control, if you have any way to roller it in, that might help. Say with a pulverizer with the scarifiers all the way up, so just the rollers impact the ground.

Hope this helps.
ron
 
   / Seeding Procedure Advice #3  
There is a very old implement made just for that. It's called a culti-packer. Mine was made in the 1920's and works just dandy. :)
 

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   / Seeding Procedure Advice #4  
Riddler said:
Although I have had my NH TC45DA for a few years now, I have used it mostly for construction type work, and to brush hog. Now I am facing seeding a cover crop (a mixture of fescue, clover and brome) over an 8 acre area, which will be covered with 3" of staw, all for erosion control purposes.

I will be discing the area this weekend. After that, my plan was to rent a spinner type broadcast spreader for the seed. After the seed is broadcast, what, if anything, should I be doing before a I rent a straw blower and cover the field with a layer of straw mulch? Can I simply disc it again, or do I have to run some type of harrow over it, to get the seed buried a bit?

Grass seed DOES NOT need to be buried, nor does it do as well when buried. It needs to be pressed into the surface to get positive contact with the dirt though. Dargo's "cultipacker" is the ideal tool for the job. A drag will bury some (to most) of your seed effecting germination. Grass seed needs sunlight to germinate.

The best landscape seeders have a press wheel arraingment simular to a cultipacker. Grain drills with a grass seeder attachment merely drop seed on the surface and drag a chain that just BARELY touches the surface.


And IMHO, 3" of straw is WAY too much. Just enough to barely cover the ground is more than enough. 3" will cut off sunlight from your seed.
 
   / Seeding Procedure Advice #5  
You got good advice from FarmwithJunk. Follow it. Don't disc. Don't use so much straw. Straw is put down as a method to help retain moisture to help the seed to germinate. If you get regular rains or heavy dews every morning, they should be enough without the straw.

I saw some fesuce coming up on some areas I'd broadcast seed onto about 2 or 3 weeks ago. I didn't put down any straw but had a bit of other weeds and stuff in there to kinda shade it. Plus, this was in a semi-shade area.

Ralph
 
   / Seeding Procedure Advice #6  
I use a harrow section if the soil is dry, then the cultipacker. When it is wet I only use the cultipacker and it pushes the seed perfectly in the ground.
 
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   / Seeding Procedure Advice #7  
In the area in which I grew up there were many an acre of grass sown using a disk drill followed by a diamond harrow. Many drills were also followed by a cultipacker type implement that was attached to the drill. The drills could be set for different depths.

Highway depts regulary spray staw over the side slopes as grass is beign established.
 
   / Seeding Procedure Advice #8  
I like to run the cultipacker, then seed and run the cultipacker again. Grass seed needs a firm seed bed.
 
   / Seeding Procedure Advice #9  
If you do acquire a cultipacker type implement, run it on the ground perpendicular to the slope to avoid making thousands of tiny rivers
 
   / Seeding Procedure Advice #10  
Check out the rental companies around you, they may have a seeder that you can rent that has 2 set of cultipacker wheels. Brillant or Landpride are two brands that will be excellent for your needs. Both are drop seeders with the seeds droping between the two sets of cultipacker wheels. I have a Landpride primary seeder that I seed lawns with. I seed 2+ tons of seed each year. I have used it for alalfa, clover, and other small grain seeds.
 
   / Seeding Procedure Advice #11  
HTWT said:
Brillant or Landpride are two brands that will be excellent for your needs.

Not trying to be picky, but.... That should read BRILLION or Landpride. (Brillion Iron Works) Just in case someoneis doing a search for Brillion......
 
   / Seeding Procedure Advice #12  
And I defy you to find a rental place that will rent you a Brillion or Landpride seeder. Nobody rents these types of seeders. They all seem to have either the broadcast seeders or the Ryan slice seeders.

BTW, they way I have seeded is to work the seedbed with a tiller, then use a cultipacker, then a broadcast seeder, then the cultipacker again. Works great, but I had a bit of a problem during heavy rains (2+ inches in a couple hours) I lost a lot of seed where the tractor wheels ran during the seeding and cultipacker runs, as they formed channels for the rain.
 
   / Seeding Procedure Advice #13  
JWaterstreet said:
And I defy you to find a rental place that will rent you a Brillion or Landpride seeder. Nobody rents these types of seeders. They all seem to have either the broadcast seeders or the Ryan slice seeders.

BTW, they way I have seeded is to work the seedbed with a tiller, then use a cultipacker, then a broadcast seeder, then the cultipacker again. Works great, but I had a bit of a problem during heavy rains (2+ inches in a couple hours) I lost a lot of seed where the tractor wheels ran during the seeding and cultipacker runs, as they formed channels for the rain.

Defy? How about bet me?????? OK, I know of ONE place that rents Landpride seeders and one place that rents Brillion landscape seeders. Both near here. Problem with renting a grass seeder, it generally sits about 10 months out of the year and spends the other 2 months waiting for rain to quit. Not a huge return on investment.
 
   / Seeding Procedure Advice #15  
JWaterstreet said:
And I defy you to find a rental place that will rent you a Brillion or Landpride seeder. Nobody rents these types of seeders. They all seem to have either the broadcast seeders or the Ryan slice seeders.

BTW, they way I have seeded is to work the seedbed with a tiller, then use a cultipacker, then a broadcast seeder, then the cultipacker again. Works great, but I had a bit of a problem during heavy rains (2+ inches in a couple hours) I lost a lot of seed where the tractor wheels ran during the seeding and cultipacker runs, as they formed channels for the rain.

Yes, you can rent them and a CUT is the perfect tractor.
I would strongly recommend renting a grass seeder if possible. In the past 3 years, I have rented both the 6' 3pt Landpride primary and overseeders from our local bobcat/kubota dealer. This year I bought a like new Landpride primary seeder for less than half price at a sale. The primary rents for $100/ day and the overseeder $150/day.In the past I have used a broadcast spreader, harrow and roller/packer. By far the best stand is with a dedicated seeder. People are amazed at the great grass stands. Control the broadleaf plants and in 2 years it looks like professional sod was laid. The key is to water it frequently and lightly the first 2 weeks after seeded.
The other methods will work, just not as good IMHO and require more time and effort. Use tiller first. One pass with primary seeder and done.
 
   / Seeding Procedure Advice #16  
OK; I guess I should have qualified my post. I defy you to find someone in Indiana to rent you a seeder.....

If anyone knows of a place in Indiana, preferably central Indiana, that rents a Landpride or Brillion overseeder, please let me know. I have called all the places within a couple hours drive, and nobody I have talked to rents them, or knows anyone that does.
 
   / Seeding Procedure Advice #17  
JWaterstreet said:
OK; I guess I should have qualified my post. I defy you to find someone in Indiana to rent you a seeder......


Well............... You asked........................

Landpride seeders rent from "New Albany Tractor" (New Holland dealer), New Albany INDIANA. (Very southern end of the state, just across the Mighty Ohio River from Louisville Kentucky)
 
   / Seeding Procedure Advice #18  
JWaterstreet said:
OK; I guess I should have qualified my post. I defy you to find someone in Indiana to rent you a seeder.....

My dealer in southern IN does.
 
   / Seeding Procedure Advice #19  
Not sure exactly what type erosion control problem / issue you are facing, but there is also a tool, (and dang if I can remember the name at the moment) that looks like a serrated disc, but the discs are all straight, and run in a straight line.

It is for use on slopes and "staples" or "punches" your straw down into the ground. I have only seen one or two of them out, fortunately, a guy that works with us has one and we share implements back and forth.

Anyway, if you are having an erosion problem (and I am guessing that you are from the 3" statement) then this is a way to get your straw to stay in place on a slope.

I can get the name off the side of it if you are interested.

Thinking about it, it may be called a Krimper, but maybe not.
 
   / Seeding Procedure Advice #20  
AlanB said:
Not sure exactly what type erosion control problem / issue you are facing, but there is also a tool, (and dang if I can remember the name at the moment) that looks like a serrated disc, but the discs are all straight, and run in a straight line.

It is for use on slopes and "staples" or "punches" your straw down into the ground. I have only seen one or two of them out, fortunately, a guy that works with us has one and we share implements back and forth.

Anyway, if you are having an erosion problem (and I am guessing that you are from the 3" statement) then this is a way to get your straw to stay in place on a slope.

I can get the name off the side of it if you are interested.

Thinking about it, it may be called a Krimper, but maybe not.

Straw crimper
 
 

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