seeking advice/insights on exhaust systen fabrication...

[CNC Dan]

OK...
I spent some time searching online suppliers with no joy...

Mandrel Bends Headers And Exhaust

 

[/pine]

Mandrel Bends Headers And Exhaust

I looked (there and every other site etc...) and found nothing that I could use...mandrel bends simply won't work in the room I have to work with...otherwise I would have used a heat gun and some PVC (etc.) and mocked up what I need and took it to a shop with a bender...

 

[MinnesotaDaveChalmers]

I looked (there and every other site etc...) and found nothing that I could use...mandrel bends simply won't work in the room I have to work with...otherwise I would have used a heat gun and some PVC (etc.) and mocked up what I need and took it to a shop with a bender...

Right, not as they are - you take a bend, cut it, rotate 180 degrees, now it's an offset pipe.

Or two 45's, cut short and rotated to make the offset.

 

[CNC Dan]

I looked (there and every other site etc...) and found nothing that I could use...mandrel bends simply won't work in the room I have to work with...otherwise I would have used a heat gun and some PVC (etc.) and mocked up what I need and took it to a shop with a bender...

You don't use them as is, you cut little pie wedges out of them, then you turn them as needed and weld them together. Look for pics of "custom headders" to see what can be done.

 

[The Fred]

Can you post a picture of your space and engine size, horsepower? Is it a beater or nice restoration? What are your goals as to longevity? Do you have time? What welding equipment do you have?

I've built 4 sets of V8 headers all with great success. I use 304 stainless these days because it is most permanent.

Regards, Fred

I know so many questions.....

 

[445A]

I'll tackle any mechanical project...but draw the line at exhaust systems

Couldn't agree more! For your eyes sake WEAR SAFETY GLASSES. Can't tell you how many eye injuries I have had from working overhead on exhaust systems, cutting, grinding, ect. For best protection wear safety goggles, and put up with fogging and sweating inside them. A small price to pay to avoid a, usually very painful, eye injury and expensive doctor visit to have the oxidized steel removed.:shocked: Good luck! BTW 256 or 304? Had a cj2a but couldn't hardly stop or turn. The CJ5 made jeeping a lot more fun. Get ur done and go have some fun!:thumbsup: 445A

 

[/pine]

Can you post a picture of your space and engine size, horsepower? Is it a beater or nice restoration? What are your goals as to longevity? Do you have time? What welding equipment do you have?

I've built 4 sets of V8 headers all with great success. I use 304 stainless these days because it is most permanent.

Regards, Fred

I know so many questions.....

When the ground dries out I will try to take some pictures...

The jeep is a '70' model CJ5 with a '50's' model Willys F head 4 cyl...current status is definitely "beater" but it's worthy of making it a street legal ride...not interested in a "cherried" out restoration...
...Mostly want to use it for navigating old un-maintained forestry roads so I am trying to keep the exhaust system out of harms way of large rocks etc...

I'm in no immediate rush so I have the time to school myself on working/welding typical steel exhaust tubing...I have a couple of MIG welders but have no experience welding stainless... so far I am satisfied with the results of my test cut/bend/weld attempts...

Right now the exhaust pipe...from the manifold ends a few inches short of the cross member I am trying to pass over with the exhaust system...the drive shaft from the PTO to the front winch is the main issue...thus the "S" section of pipe I am trying to fabricate avoids the shaft and lines up with the (minimal) opening above the cross member...

One other issue is (I don't know what it's called or its purpose) some sort of tension cable that is connected to a bolt that is on that (lower) side of the transmission...the cable is about 12"-14" long and is connected to clamp that bolts to the cross member...any idea what this is and its purpose?
Thanks...

 

[dragoneggs]

Couldn't agree more! For your eyes sake WEAR SAFETY GLASSES. Can't tell you how many eye injuries I have had from working overhead on exhaust systems, cutting, grinding, ect. For best protection wear safety goggles, and put up with fogging and sweating inside them. A small price to pay to avoid a, usually very painful, eye injury and expensive doctor visit to have the oxidized steel removed.:shocked: Good luck! BTW 256 or 304? Had a cj2a but couldn't hardly stop or turn. The CJ5 made jeeping a lot more fun. Get ur done and go have some fun!:thumbsup: 445A

Best advice I heard for awhile... I still don't wear safety glasses in the shop as much as I should but I am trying to put them on as a habit now especially if I turn anything on other than the lights!

 

[CNC Dan]

Best advice I heard for awhile... I still don't wear safety glasses in the shop as much as I should but I am trying to put them on as a habit now especially if I turn anything on other than the lights!

When I started working at a machine shop I had to wear safety glasses all the time. It took about two weeks to get used to them, but now I can't work in the shop without them, or I feel naked.

And there is a wide range of safety glasses available, find ones you like and you won't mind wearing them as much.

 

[Big Barn]

Best advice I heard for awhile... I still don't wear safety glasses in the shop as much as I should but I am trying to put them on as a habit now especially if I turn anything on other than the lights!

I've always worn safety glasses for grinding etc. but since having eye surgery for cataract removal I seem to be wearing them more, like CNC Dan. Terry