I interpret you are talking about #10. I would start with Kroil applied multiple times to the petcock for a couple days. Then I would rig a way to squeeze the valve body that the petcock screws into. I mean hard so that it flexes around the threads of the petcock to disturb the bond that has formed during long term stasis. Its going to take more than Vise Grips. ... A heavy reaction mass against one side and a firm impulse delivered to the opposite side via a hammer and punch. A 1/2"D short brass rod would be a great punch. Otherwise, a piece of aluminum or brass should be used to protect the valve body from a hard punch. It would be ideal if you could arrange for torque on the petcock while blows are delivered.View attachment 638540
Can't get a good picture as the loader is in the way and the tractors disabled at this point. But it's like the one in the picture with the hose but a little different in that the ears are cast and quit large. Looks handy, but not when it's seized. At this point we have it drained enough that the water pump came off with very little mess. The only reason I'd need it loose at this point is if I have to bleed it once everything is back together and filled. The drain on the rad was no problem, but that one looks to be brass.
Properly done, this thread should get us through winter, and well into spring.
The picture shows a petcock, is yours a plug with a square head? Those are usually a pipe thread- tapered. The best penetrating oil I have found is Aerokroil, spray it with that and give it some time. Hopefully you can drive a socket on there and break it loose. When you get it out replace it with either a petcock or a plug with a hex head and use a six point socket on it from now on, they engage the flats rather than the easily rounded corners.
I wish you the best, I have been in similar situations, and it isn't pleasant.