OP
PearlWhiteGT
Bronze Member
Thanks fellas, will report back in a few days.
One more thing the 350, 400, and 450 Yamaha ATVs have a lot of compression and are very hard to start using the pull chord, cold especially, locked up engine or not lol. Yamaha didn't or doesn't even put pull chords on the bigger bore ATVs but have a decompression valve. Good luck with this project. Personally free stuff involving motors are my favorite projects.Thanks fellas, will report back in a few days.
What brand of carb did you go with? Seens different ones on there.The petcock on the yamahas have a fine screen in them that get gunked up pretty bad. I see them cheap on ebay. figured it was worth mentioning. also replacement carbs are cheap on there as well. I just did both on my 04 660 grizzly.
Oddly I looked up what I had bought, and it doesn't list a manufacturer. haven't had any issues with it so far. and a ton cheaper than the OEM part.What brand of carb did you go with? Seens different ones on there.
I totaly get this and feel the same but my main issue is time and space for the machine. At the moment I have the garage space but that's only due to my car being in the body shop. Once I get it back I have nowhere to keep the machine where I can work on it.No harm in pulling it apart and seeing what it needs ....and if nothing more to appease the curiosity of just what failed and why. For me, I could never sell or part with it without knowing just what went wrong....
An endoscope on Amazon or Flea Bay is cheap. They jack into your cell phone and provide a look-see inside for around 15 bucks.Do you have a borescope available to do a peek down the lightening hole?
Imo the engines condition is well beyond the acetone and ATF stage to free. Lol. I had no idea until this post a "rebuilt" replacement long block is 2k+An endoscope on Amazon or Flea Bay is cheap. They jack into your cell phone and provide a look-see inside for around 15 bucks.
if it was my project, I'd put some acetone-ATF in the jug and then slowly rock the crank back and forth until it broke free. Just how I'd approach it.
I got it broken free already a couple of days ago. Only thing that will fix it now is pretty much a engine rebuild at worst or piston/jug kit at best.An endoscope on Amazon or Flea Bay is cheap. They jack into your cell phone and provide a look-see inside for around 15 bucks.
if it was my project, I'd put some acetone-ATF in the jug and then slowly rock the crank back and forth until it broke free. Just how I'd approach it.
Yup and I don't think the machine is worth that much once it's up and running.Imo the engines condition is well beyond the acetone and ATF stage to free. Lol. I had no idea until this post a "rebuilt" replacement long block is 2k+
If it was mine I problaby wouldnt stop at the engine but end up rebuilding the CVT drive system or at least a new drive belt and keep going from there, If that 400 had independent rear suspension it would be more desirable imo.Yup and I don't think the machine is worth that much once it's up and running.
Shows right over 1000 but I believe it can be reset with the dial on the side of the odometer.If it was mine I problaby wouldnt stop at the engine but end up rebuilding the CVT drive system or at least a new drive belt and keep going from there, If that 400 had independent rear suspension it would be more desirable imo.
It was free however? what's the miles on it?