OP
jscusmcvet
Member
That is the Valley Power I am refering to. He was kind in his explanations and answered this and a couple other questions via email.
John
John
Selecting a Box Blade
- Thread starter jscusmcvet
- Start date
- Views: 5935
Buppies
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Oct 26, 2011
- Messages
- 12,269
- Location
- SouthWestern Virginia
- Tractor
- Kubota L5240 EX mark 60 in 29 hp Toro 60inch Z Master 21 inch walk behind Polaris 900 hunter edition 30in toro walk behind
He was most kind back in the 80s . I owned a satoh back then that was bought and serviced by them . Great people and very very honest. Thanks for the reply
Missouri Pioneer
Gold Member
In my experience, a tractor like yours won't pull a rear blade, much less a box blade.
Years ago, I had a Kubota B7200, 17 hp, 2WD. I bought a rear blade and the results were completely unsatisfactory. 2WD and the light weight didn't even pull more than a 3" snowfall and was stopped dead by a rough spot in the yard I was trying to smooth out.
Sorry, but my advice is if you need to get a blade, you need a bigger 4WD tractor ... and don't waste your $$ on a rear blade, get a box blade for that larger tractor. My .02, for whatever it's worth.
(Even my 55 hp 4WD with the box blade rippers down and loaded tires has been stopped dead by a big root.)
Years ago, I had a Kubota B7200, 17 hp, 2WD. I bought a rear blade and the results were completely unsatisfactory. 2WD and the light weight didn't even pull more than a 3" snowfall and was stopped dead by a rough spot in the yard I was trying to smooth out.
Sorry, but my advice is if you need to get a blade, you need a bigger 4WD tractor ... and don't waste your $$ on a rear blade, get a box blade for that larger tractor. My .02, for whatever it's worth.
(Even my 55 hp 4WD with the box blade rippers down and loaded tires has been stopped dead by a big root.)
That tractor will pull a properly sized box blade. I was thinking that a king kutter xb may be a good match, that was why I was telling you to measure your lift arm heigth earlier to see if it would work. I have that box blade and can pull behind the bx 2wd. Do you have ag tires with fluid in them?
boggen
Elite Member
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2011
- Messages
- 3,789
- Location
- Trivoli, IL
- Tractor
- SSTT (Sideways Snake Tain Tractor) and STB (sideways train box) tractor, dirt harvester
get on a level surface both tractor and box blade. and level the box blade (left to right) using side link on 3pt hitch.
then you can adjust the "top link" on the 3pt hitch to tilt box blade forward or backwards. to adjust how much the blade digs in.
instead of just dropping the 3pt hitch. so it falls all the way down. keep it raised up some, when using the teeth. so you are not trying to dig into the dirt as much.
adding some extra weight to the box blade, like concrete blocks, lumber, scrap steel. etc... can help keep the box blade from jumping up and down as you attempt to dig.
if ground/driveway is like concrete hard / compacted. normally if you can break through the initial couple inches. it is smooth sailing after that. your goal with teeth, will need to get them initially started, and get them sunk in past that hard initial layer. so the tips, of the teeth. pull the hard layer up and break it into clumps. vs trying to get the teeth to slice through that hard top layer.
other words to above, take a large hershey bar say 2" wide, 7" long, 1/4" thick. you do not take a knife and try and cut it in half, but you break it in pieces. same like idea with the hard compacted layer and breaking the layer up vs trying to slice it up with the teeth on box blade.
you might try starting in the grass near edge of drive way. were dirt will be less hard/compacted. and then driving into the driveway.
and you might try extending top link as far as possible (within reason). to tilt the box blade backwards. when using the teeth. so it pops the hard layer up. err angle the teeth better so they pop the initial hard layer upwards.
instead of putting all 4 teeth down, just put the middle 2 down. and remove the outer side teeth. and it may help ya do the initial ripping up of stuff.
=======================
remember you can adjust top link to adjust how much the blade on box blade digs in. by tilting box blade forward or backwards. and yes with most 3pt dirt engaging equipment, one hand is normally on steering wheel while other is on the 3pt hitch leveler to raise/lower as needed. at least it is with me.
=======================
remember you will need to compact the dirt / gravel once you get things all back level. i tend to drive tractor, up and down drive way multi times, so tires go back over last pass a half tire wide. then will drive back over everything at 45 degree to 90 degree angle to initial passes, to further compact things.
the more weight i can get on tractor, the better to help compact.
then you can adjust the "top link" on the 3pt hitch to tilt box blade forward or backwards. to adjust how much the blade digs in.
instead of just dropping the 3pt hitch. so it falls all the way down. keep it raised up some, when using the teeth. so you are not trying to dig into the dirt as much.
adding some extra weight to the box blade, like concrete blocks, lumber, scrap steel. etc... can help keep the box blade from jumping up and down as you attempt to dig.
if ground/driveway is like concrete hard / compacted. normally if you can break through the initial couple inches. it is smooth sailing after that. your goal with teeth, will need to get them initially started, and get them sunk in past that hard initial layer. so the tips, of the teeth. pull the hard layer up and break it into clumps. vs trying to get the teeth to slice through that hard top layer.
other words to above, take a large hershey bar say 2" wide, 7" long, 1/4" thick. you do not take a knife and try and cut it in half, but you break it in pieces. same like idea with the hard compacted layer and breaking the layer up vs trying to slice it up with the teeth on box blade.
you might try starting in the grass near edge of drive way. were dirt will be less hard/compacted. and then driving into the driveway.
and you might try extending top link as far as possible (within reason). to tilt the box blade backwards. when using the teeth. so it pops the hard layer up. err angle the teeth better so they pop the initial hard layer upwards.
instead of putting all 4 teeth down, just put the middle 2 down. and remove the outer side teeth. and it may help ya do the initial ripping up of stuff.
=======================
remember you can adjust top link to adjust how much the blade on box blade digs in. by tilting box blade forward or backwards. and yes with most 3pt dirt engaging equipment, one hand is normally on steering wheel while other is on the 3pt hitch leveler to raise/lower as needed. at least it is with me.
=======================
remember you will need to compact the dirt / gravel once you get things all back level. i tend to drive tractor, up and down drive way multi times, so tires go back over last pass a half tire wide. then will drive back over everything at 45 degree to 90 degree angle to initial passes, to further compact things.
the more weight i can get on tractor, the better to help compact.
OP
jscusmcvet
Member
That is a great explanation of how to adjust the blade. I appreciate the input very much, I can tell you.
My daughter helped me put the rear blade on tonight and we got to scrape a bit before it got too dark. I am thinking that at least at the start, this is going to be the way to go. With my extremely limited experrience it seemed a whole lot easier to get my intended result with the rear blade than the box blade. I am going to spend Saturday morning giving the road a shot with the rear blade and go from there.
The idea expressed about getting a bigger tractor is not going to happen at this time. I'll have to find a way to use this one, go back to hand or mickey rig a blade for the Jeep
I think I can get the hang of the rear blade todo what I need. I will never have, nor do we want a perfectly manicured gravel drive. I will try and take before and after pics and show you guys what I am trying to do on Saturday.
John
My daughter helped me put the rear blade on tonight and we got to scrape a bit before it got too dark. I am thinking that at least at the start, this is going to be the way to go. With my extremely limited experrience it seemed a whole lot easier to get my intended result with the rear blade than the box blade. I am going to spend Saturday morning giving the road a shot with the rear blade and go from there.
The idea expressed about getting a bigger tractor is not going to happen at this time. I'll have to find a way to use this one, go back to hand or mickey rig a blade for the Jeep
I think I can get the hang of the rear blade todo what I need. I will never have, nor do we want a perfectly manicured gravel drive. I will try and take before and after pics and show you guys what I am trying to do on Saturday.John
