Selecting a Box Blade

[jscusmcvet]

I am the new owner of a Satoh (mitsubishi) Buck S470. It is 2wd, 18hp tractor with ag tires. It has a Cat 1 3 point hitch. I am looking for a box blade for driveway repair and maint. We have a "road" that is basically a farm track, with spots of gravel,but mostly a mix of dirt and natural rock. I am not looking for that perfect gravel drive, just need to guide water.

I have been managing this by hand for 2.5 years, but some of the severe downpours we have had this summer have gotten the best of me, hence the tractor purchase.

I have searched and cannot find a solid recommendation on width for the blade. Does it need to be wider than the tires, or is it better, with a small tractor like this to go with a smaller blade, so it can better pull...

Thanks in advance for your advice.

John

 

[Buppies]

I would think that you would want one that covered the width of the tires but not too heavy. The box blade should be one that is light or regular duty so as not to be to much for your tractor. Tractor Supply or Northern Tool should have one that should service you well

 

[s219]

Yep, you want it to cover tire width but not much more. Box blades load up with material when you use them, and can get heavy.

 

[woodlandfarms]

Consider a land plane over a box blade.....

 

[jscusmcvet]

Thanks for your advice. If I understand how a land plane works, I don't think it will have the ability to work the road as I need. I assume the land plane slides over the road, shaving off high points, much like a plane for wood does. Is that correct? I think I am going to need more shaping ability than that.

Appreciate your input. What I am hearing is: light to medium duty box at the width of the rear wheels.

John

 

[murphy1244]

Thanks for your advice. If I understand how a land plane works, I don't think it will have the ability to work the road as I need. I assume the land plane slides over the road, shaving off high points, much like a plane for wood does. Is that correct? I think I am going to need more shaping ability than that.

Appreciate your input. What I am hearing is: light to medium duty box at the width of the rear wheels.

John

Landpride has them with scarifiers on them, rip it up and smooth it down with one pass.

 

[/pine]

I am the new owner of a Satoh (mitsubishi) Buck S470. It is 2wd, 18hp tractor with ag tires. It has a Cat 1 3 point hitch. I am looking for a box blade for driveway repair and maint. We have a "road" that is basically a farm track, with spots of gravel,but mostly a mix of dirt and natural rock. I am not looking for that perfect gravel drive, just need to guide water.

I have been managing this by hand for 2.5 years, but some of the severe downpours we have had this summer have gotten the best of me, hence the tractor purchase.

I have searched and cannot find a solid recommendation on width for the blade. Does it need to be wider than the tires, or is it better, with a small tractor like this to go with a smaller blade, so it can better pull...

Thanks in advance for your advice.

John

Take a look at the Bushhog brand in the "BX" series...they are made for your size tractor...

 

[rjwerth]

I don't know how wide your tractor is, but take a look at the Everything Attachments Box Blades for small tractors. They make them in a number of different widths, but here is the 5' one: 5 Foot Xtreme Duty Compact Box Blade by Everything Attachments

I have a 78" Xtreme for larger tractors and am quite pleased with it.

 

[jscusmcvet]

Measured wheel width today. Looks like right at 42". With that and the above info (than you!) I am revising my search from 48" to 42". I will let you knwo what I come up with.

John

 

[rjwerth]

If your wheels are 42", you may still want to look at 48" boxes. They would give you 3" extra a side which is really helpful when you are getting close to things as well as being able to see the edges easier. My tractor is 72" wide and I"m sooo happy I went with the 78" for these reasons.

Yes, it is a bit harder to pull, but I think the difference will be neglagable.

 

[cartod]

My 18 horse I had was perfect with a 4' box blade, anything bigger I would think you wouldn't have enough power to pull a full load, especially with any kind of incline.

 

[jscusmcvet]

If your wheels are 42", you may still want to look at 48" boxes. They would give you 3" extra a side which is really helpful when you are getting close to things as well as being able to see the edges easier. My tractor is 72" wide and I"m sooo happy I went with the 78" for these reasons.

Yes, it is a bit harder to pull, but I think the difference will be neglagable.

Excellent point. I am going to stop by a couple places tomorrow and see what is available.

Thanks so much for the help.

John

 

[s219]

Yeah, 42-48" would be ideal.

 

[/pine]

FWIW...I have never had any problem using my 5' (Bushhog) CBX60 boxblade with my 17 HP Kubota...even with a full load of wet crusher run...regardless of the slope...

I got it new from a Kubota dealer for less than $500...it weighs 280#'s...I have added a bolt on tool/weight box...when I need more weight I put 4- 5 gallon buckets of gravel in the box...

I'm still trying to work out an easy way to add hydraulic power to the scarifiers...

 

[jscusmcvet]

I am lucky enough to be within driving distance of Everything Attacments. I am planning to head up there on Saturday and see if I can come home with an appropriate blade. Sound like a plan? Would I need to bring the tractor? Seems like they shouldn't need to see it but would it help?

I took a trip this afternoon to the local JD dealer and they wanted to charge $250 over what they quoted on Saturday. I was disappointed and decided to further explore my other options.

John

 

[94BULLITT]

I think you would want a 48" box blade. Before you go looking at box blades park your tractor on a level surface. Lower the lift arms and measure how high they are from the ground. Then when you go looking at box blades you can measure where the lift pins are to make sure it will be on the ground and you can get a idea of how high it will lift it. I'm thinking you will want a box blade for a compact tractor not a subcompact.

 

[jenkinsph]

Thanks for your advice. If I understand how a land plane works, I don't think it will have the ability to work the road as I need. I assume the land plane slides over the road, shaving off high points, much like a plane for wood does. Is that correct? I think I am going to need more shaping ability than that.

Appreciate your input. What I am hearing is: light to medium duty box at the width of the rear wheels.

John

I have a 5' rearblade, 48" landplane and 48" boxblade that I use with my garden tractor that is the same weight as your Satoh. The landplane and rearblade are far more useful for most driveway work than the boxblade in this sized machine. That has been my experience anyway, I can touch op the edges and crown with the rearblade then smooth the drive with the landplane.If you pitch the landplane forward it will cut very aggressively probably as much as you can pull anyway.

I don't have a picture handy for the rearblade it is a 5' Tractor Supply cheapy but here are pictures of the 48" Cammond boxblade and my custom 48" landplane.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Landplane for road maintenance is the easiest to use and get good results. If you could find one with scarifiers teeth on the front like the boxblades, it would be the perfect tool.

 

[jscusmcvet]

Well, I lucked out yesterday and got the chance to borrow a friends United 48" box blade. Interesting results... hopefully mostly from my inexperience and lack of knowledge.

With the scarifiers down, stopped the tractor cold. More an anchor than a blade. I flipped the scarifiers around and just used the blade. While it worked I had to stop, lift the blade and reset it often, with next to nothing in the box, becasue the tractor would start slipping. I have fixed my diff lock problem, so even with the diff locked, not what I expected.

I "spoke" with Bill from Valley Power today and he said my tractor would be best with a rear blade. If it stops raining tonight I may get the chance to try out a borrowed rear blade.

The issue I have is that my "driveway" and "road" is what most would consider a 4wd trail. I am lucky in that, but need to keep it passable. Hopefully give it a shot tonight or tomorrow.

Thank you for all the input and advice. I will keep you updated.

John

 

[Buppies]

Well, I lucked out yesterday and got the chance to borrow a friends United 48" box blade. Interesting results... hopefully mostly from my inexperience and lack of knowledge.

With the scarifiers down, stopped the tractor cold. More an anchor than a blade. I flipped the scarifiers around and just used the blade. While it worked I had to stop, lift the blade and reset it often, with next to nothing in the box, becasue the tractor would start slipping. I have fixed my diff lock problem, so even with the diff locked, not what I expected.

I "spoke" with Bill from Valley Power today and he said my tractor would be best with a rear blade. If it stops raining tonight I may get the chance to try out a borrowed rear blade.

The issue I have is that my "driveway" and "road" is what most would consider a 4wd trail. I am lucky in that, but need to keep it passable. Hopefully give it a shot tonight or

Thank you for all the input and advice. I will keep you updated.

John

I used to know a Bill from Valley Power Products in Roanoke ,Va in the 80s I wonder if it is the same one.