self contained, passive top link

[ford860]

Thanks Mike,

The more I think this over the more I think that it might be wise to consider active hydraulics, though I have far more questions than answers. Before I ask, please forgive my redirecting the conversation; and, if there's already a thread that will address my questions, please let me know.

Is it as simple as purchasing a $60 adapter plate (w/ seals, etc.), put the top plate back on top of the adapter plate and run hoses from the adapter with an inline single spool valve?

Or, do I need sink $600 to $700 into a valve kit?

Or, is there some in-between solution?

Thanks,

 

[mwb]

I don't know much about the 860 by my Ford 2000 ('74) had a cover plate under the seat that would have to be changed to add remove hydraulics. I had found an aftermarket kit but I think it was close to $1000 all in. I thought it better to get a tractor with hydraulics available and ended up buying new

I will search and see if I can find the kit, good chance it is compatible with yours. Probably lots of others here that know more about your model and whats available.

Used parts are an option but I am guessing that there are not many donors available with the hydraulic accessory.

 

[mwb]

I did a google search for "external hydraulics ford 860" and found this:

"You can buy an original fit valve from New Holland and I think TISCO also sells one. You can get a single or a double spool valve. These bolt on the top of the lift cover. Although you could tap into the blockoff plate on the lift cover it is not the best way to go. If not plumbed right you could cause pump damage. Buy a valve made for the tractor. You will be glad you did. "

Cheers,
Mike

 

[ford860]

Thanks Mike, I appreciate your trouble.

Ford 860

 

[jinman]

Brad's point makes sense. As the rod moves in an out of the cylinder the total volume within the system may change; moreover, temperature changes will cause expansion and contraction of the two fluids (air & oil) in the cylinder. This is why I asked if it is necessary to have a reservoir; if so, any design suggestions?

I would say that you could easily do this by experimentation. When you get your cylinder and a single hose, prefill the cylinder and see what you need. Just push the cylinder all the way in until it goes to hydraulic lock. Then, open one of the fittings on the hose and let the additional fluid drain into a cup. That will tell you exactly the size of reservoir or accumulator you will need. A small bladder reservoir/accumulator without a precharge of air is what you will need. You want it to not take much pressure to fill it or it might restrict the movement of your cylinder. I don't know where such a thing might be available. Probably any tiny reservoir would work if you can orient it where air does not get drawn into the lines going to the cylinder.

 

[AKKAMAAN]

Don't use any air or oxygen in hydraulic system. VERY EXPLOSIVE!! NITROGEN ONLY in ackumulators.
You need an ackumulator as an reservoir. The volume is the volume of the pistonrod plus 10-20% to compensate for natural leaks over time of use. You have to experiment with precharge of N2. You will need some to keep air out of the system.
I assumed this is your setup up of cylinder, extend when empty bucket.
Use either a ballvalve or a 2/2 spool valve with wire control, remote! Valve have to be on the rod side of the ackumulator.

You also might need a relief valve on the rod side if bucket gets heavy loaded, or when bouncing during moving around. That relief have to drain into capped side of cylinder.

 

[J_J]

ford860,

Why not use a 12v motor, pump, and tank assembly to do what you want. You could also mount a small hydraulic gear pump driven off the fan belt. or a power steering pump.

Hydraulic Cylinder Components, Products

Gear pump GC series, 250-058

Hydraulic Cylinder Components, Products

 

[John861]

I'd go with the $100 adapter plate for your top cover rather than the $600 spools. I run this on my 861 (and actually have a set of spools on top of it). The adapter plate gives you ports to plumb into the valves of your choice and run the hydraulic top link or anything else you want. You can get the plate from TISCO - I bought mine through ytmag.com.

-John

 

[Brad_Blazer]

Akkamaan,
Thanks for adding the schematic. The way you have it drawn you only get 115PSI resisting compression. I think both ends need to be isolated from the reservoir.

 

[AKKAMAAN]

Akkamaan,
Thanks for adding the schematic. The way you have it drawn you only get 115PSI resisting compression. I think both ends need to be isolated from the reservoir.

I cant see a reason to isolate capped side of cylinder......load will be hanging on the rod side pressure....The way I assumed the hook up, extract cylinder when dumping, you need rod sid isolated from accumulator/reservoir.

Brad, Please show the math behind the 115psi resisting pressure! My 100psi suggestion can be igorned, I did suggest trail and error to decide pre-charge pressure

The mechanical leverage design will decide what load pressure there will be on the rod side, together with the unknown rod diameter....bigger rod diameter will give higher rod side pressure.

Active hydraulics will require more hook up procedures and additional hydraulics on tractor....$$$

Better go for a NON HYDRAULIC design....just a locking "hook", controlled by a wire to the cab.....simple, inexpensive and reliable.