Check out an LS tractor. I looked at buying L3301 kubota, I payed less for a 40 hp LS. It even has a drop down step to make it easy to get up onto tractor. Not sure if the smaller tractors have it, if anything you won't break the bank.
Sell my Ford 1700? I've reconsidered.......
OP
toukow
Silver Member
Hmm, I assumed it would happen to every tractor regardless of brand if it was a matter of condensation forming. Maybe I'm off base on the matter. I've only taken out the filter when the bucket wouldn't operate properly, so don't have a clue on the progression of the gunking. I've used both Oreilly 303 and Kubota and had the same issue.
My 1920 sits outside and is used just like my 1700, but the 1920 has a actual filter not that metal screen.
OP
toukow
Silver Member
I'd guess the external filter (which must be nice) would have more surface area internally with the filter media pleats and thus take longer to plug. Time will tell, and hopefully you don't suffer the same issues.
OP
toukow
Silver Member
I wonder if this would have any effect, or if I'm just chasing my tail on the matter.....seems like something to remove moisture during heating/cooling cycles would help. I may give it a go if I can find one.
sixdogs
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2007
- Messages
- 13,833
- Location
- Ohio
- Tractor
- Kubota M7040, Kubota MX5100, Deere 790 TLB, Farmall Super C
The first real tractor I fell in love with was a 1710. It sold too fast so I wound up buying a 2110 and a 1900 and still regret selling either one of them. That whole series of tractors was excellent and I don't blame you for keeping the 1700. That is a great tractor.
My hydrolic fluid in the rear end of the 1700 was always milky white, but was fine in the transmission. I think that some how water would enter it and cause the problem. It was a good tractor, small and maneuverable. Miss that sometimes with the 1920.
OP
toukow
Silver Member
Funny thing is on mine the fluid does not turn milky. It forms some sort of congealed mess that ends up totally clogging the filter screen as shown in the photo. The fluid looks good when drained. I found this cheap, refillable inline filter for $16 with desiccant and I'm going to try and fit it inline with the transmission breather, which is quite small on this tractor at 1/4" NPT. What do I have to lose?
I searched the forum and have read the discussions of changing every 300 hours which I envy. Mine appears to clog based on time. There are no leaks to mention in the system, as I repair them when found. I last changed it 20 hours and 16 months ago and it seems like the hydraulic operation is delayed and jerky. I'm willing to bet when I drain it the filter will look the same. We'll see. I'll drain it after I install the desiccant filter, and see how it goes from there. At 6 gallons a pop and $50, it gets old, but at least it's not that hard to do. Thanks, Dean
Attachments
JC-jetro
Elite Member
The key is every one changes the hyd fluid but don't clean out the diffy floor. It is the same as cleaning a soiled diaper, wiping the butt clean and reusing the old diaper. I have a made a collection jar (1 gall empty antifreeze bottle) in series with a shop Vac (so I would not dirty the shop vac ) and cleaned out the floor of the diffy once the screen access was open. I picked up good 2.5 lbs of snot from the diffy case. I even had to make a hook out of some wire , shoving thru the bottom drain of the diffy to open it up. I pulled out a dead rat looking thing from the bottom. One thing to remember diffy housing act as a reservoir and once oil arrives there it has hardly any appreciable speed so things collect at the bottom and suction is about 1/2: to 1" from the bottom. Oil in the transmission stays put more so and hyd flow returns directly to diffy housing from 3 point lift control and pressure relic device. That kind of cleaning was done once by me 12 years ago and the oil looks great. I do have the tractor under the cover at all time with the exception of when I use it.
JC,
JC,
OP
toukow
Silver Member
O.K. I've simply done a flush with a mixture of diesel and transmission fluid. Right or wrong, it was done. I have a oil extractor pump which would work well for this. So I assume you pulled the cover on top of the case, requiring you to remove the gear shift levers. If so:
A: How much of a bear is that? Is it pretty straight forward? I was not sure from the diagram how the shift levers attach to the components underneath. I'm guessing it's via a slot or the like in parts 11 & 12.
B: Did you have to replace the large gasket under the plate?
C: Should I order new seals number 47 or anything else in advance? Seems prudent to replace those.
Thanks for the advice, Dean
A: How much of a bear is that? Is it pretty straight forward? I was not sure from the diagram how the shift levers attach to the components underneath. I'm guessing it's via a slot or the like in parts 11 & 12.
B: Did you have to replace the large gasket under the plate?
C: Should I order new seals number 47 or anything else in advance? Seems prudent to replace those.
Thanks for the advice, Dean
