kevin37b
Veteran Member
That 1-18 pipe is too small . N eed 4" That is called a mound system where the ground will not perc . They set it up above grade then backfill the sys tem .
septic field frozen
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Egon
Epic Contributor
Assuming that the drain field effluent discharge point is higher than the pump. Can you get effluent in the line that remains there between the pump cycles and gradually freezes.
Or question: how does the effluent drain line drain when the pump is off?
Sorta like the old cylinder water pumps that had a hole in the tubing below the frost line to prevent freezing.
Or question: how does the effluent drain line drain when the pump is off?
Sorta like the old cylinder water pumps that had a hole in the tubing below the frost line to prevent freezing.
Looking4new
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That is the way they are up here, too.
Just get the pump truck in to hold you over for another couple of weeks. There's no way you're going to thaw it out any quicker.
I've seen these new above ground systems being installed around here, but only in places that were low lying or on bedrock.
I've seen these new above ground systems being installed around here, but only in places that were low lying or on bedrock.
DFB
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Mine is very similar
A Wisconsin mound system what my PE called the design many years ago. Pump chamber, sewage pump, float switches, control box, high level alarm. I have 2 inch lines with custom drilled 3/8" holes (holes facing down) and under pump pressure pushes the effluent into the stone beds. I also have drain back to the tank when the pump shuts off.
I used a couple of concrete well risers and a cover so I would have easy above grade access to my pump chamber at all times. Have you/ can you observe that the pump is working correctly? Obviously if it wasn't eventually the high level alarm would sound too.
From my control panel I can manually activate the pump and thru my riser observe down inside the tank.
I had problem once the outfeed line broke between the point leaving the tank and before entering the manifold for the drain lines. And actually it was just before the T where the vent riser came up. I only knew it because 50 ft down from drainfield there was a continuous soggy spot where the grass was growing like crazy. With a little observation you could actually see the additional green growth line right towards the break and even in the winter the snow would also melt over that area.
A Wisconsin mound system what my PE called the design many years ago. Pump chamber, sewage pump, float switches, control box, high level alarm. I have 2 inch lines with custom drilled 3/8" holes (holes facing down) and under pump pressure pushes the effluent into the stone beds. I also have drain back to the tank when the pump shuts off.
I used a couple of concrete well risers and a cover so I would have easy above grade access to my pump chamber at all times. Have you/ can you observe that the pump is working correctly? Obviously if it wasn't eventually the high level alarm would sound too.
From my control panel I can manually activate the pump and thru my riser observe down inside the tank.
I had problem once the outfeed line broke between the point leaving the tank and before entering the manifold for the drain lines. And actually it was just before the T where the vent riser came up. I only knew it because 50 ft down from drainfield there was a continuous soggy spot where the grass was growing like crazy. With a little observation you could actually see the additional green growth line right towards the break and even in the winter the snow would also melt over that area.
yea i will be waiting for spring to come around a thaw it out, i just want some other ideas on how to prevent this from happening in the future.
I have observed the pump working as i activated the pump and can see it discharge out of the line once disconnected.
I have observed the pump working as i activated the pump and can see it discharge out of the line once disconnected.
RedNeckRacin
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It sounds like the only good way to do it would be to try and insulate the mound better and insulate the access covers. Those covers are letting heat out. Also, if your frost can penetrate 6' into the ground, it sounds like you need to make sure your field is insulated by at least 6' of cover. I would think some 2" insulation and a couple feet of dirt would work well? I never really thought about a sand mound freezing before, but at those temps, anything is possible!
PILOON
Super Star Member
Think what you have is the 'EquoFlo' concept field.
Well built it should be OK but for that to happen the soil need to be able to absorb. Normally a peculation test is needed to confirm otherwise the contractor trucks in an absorbent sand for the base.
Septic effluent does not freeze but pure water will.
A leaking toilet valve will put a septic system out of action in short notice as will many bath tub loads of water.
A household of 3-4 teen girls can kill your field faster than a leaking toilet float valve.
I had 3 houses in cold Quebec north all with conventional drainage fields that never created any problems.
The fields are about 16- 24" deep with only snow cover.
My daughter's froze up as I had cautioned my son in law to fix his leaking toilet tank valve. He neglected and they lost 1/2 winter's usage.
One tenant thought to leave a tap open to prevent freeze up. Fresh water froze nicely. (used a hose connected to the hot water tank and promptly thawed the 3" tank line)
LOL, joys of country living!
Bacteria created in a septic system will keep that effluent cozy warm and freeze free.
Another thing you learn about over time is NOT to use bleach in the washing machine. Bleach (Javex) kills microbes. Microbes create heat as they attack the contents of your tank.
Bleach as well as all those nice toilet self cleaning blocks (also bleach) will do you in.
Also all the advertized 'enzimes' are really advertising hype. Forget it. Human waste and food scraps will do better than any advertized cure all product.
Well built it should be OK but for that to happen the soil need to be able to absorb. Normally a peculation test is needed to confirm otherwise the contractor trucks in an absorbent sand for the base.
Septic effluent does not freeze but pure water will.
A leaking toilet valve will put a septic system out of action in short notice as will many bath tub loads of water.
A household of 3-4 teen girls can kill your field faster than a leaking toilet float valve.
I had 3 houses in cold Quebec north all with conventional drainage fields that never created any problems.
The fields are about 16- 24" deep with only snow cover.
My daughter's froze up as I had cautioned my son in law to fix his leaking toilet tank valve. He neglected and they lost 1/2 winter's usage.
One tenant thought to leave a tap open to prevent freeze up. Fresh water froze nicely. (used a hose connected to the hot water tank and promptly thawed the 3" tank line)
LOL, joys of country living!
Bacteria created in a septic system will keep that effluent cozy warm and freeze free.
Another thing you learn about over time is NOT to use bleach in the washing machine. Bleach (Javex) kills microbes. Microbes create heat as they attack the contents of your tank.
Bleach as well as all those nice toilet self cleaning blocks (also bleach) will do you in.
Also all the advertized 'enzimes' are really advertising hype. Forget it. Human waste and food scraps will do better than any advertized cure all product.
truckdiagnostics
Platinum Member
Have not had a chance to read the whole thread, first year we where in our house our drain field froze or i thought it did. Same system you have. Jumped through same hoops, until i called a plumber friend of mine. Where it comes out of your pump going up to the field. There needs to be a small hole in the plastic pipe so the water can drain back. They didn't have it. Drilled a hole ain't froze since.If you take the top off where your pump is with the pump running you should see water pissing out the side. Good luck Steve
s219
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In normal soil, frost has to overcome the typical ground temperature as it works downward. You don't have that reservoir of ground temperature in the mound really, at least not the same as native settled soil. So I bet the mount has a significantly less frost resistance than the ground. If you have a 6' frost line in regular soil, I don't see how a 4' mound of sand/stone has a chance, even with bales of hay on top. Maybe there is a better way to insulate the mound from air temperature above so that it can trap/hold some ground temperature, but I have my doubts.
