septic sense ???

[TerryinMD]

Richard,

You need to find out where your septic tank is. Typically, the top of the tank is just a foot or two under the surface. Do you have the plat layout of your house, septic field, septic tank etc. If you do just measure out and begin digging. I found my access cover this summer in about 20 minutes. Another ten minutes of digging and the access lid was ready to be pulled.

As I explain in another thread, I then put in a access cover for future cleanouts. The ring from the tank to the surface of the ground is 28" double-wall plastic conduit and a 28" concrete lid. Put in the pipe, backfill around the pipe, drop on the lid, and you have instant access anytime you wish.

Terry

 

[Molerj]

When I got my tank pumped out, I had to first locate where we put the tank 6 yrs. ealier
& then dig around (had a back hoe at the house doing some other work) till he found the
lid. I then used concrete block placed on top of the tank to make a pit with a metal lid that I
covered with about 8 inches of sandy soil. Marked the center with a brick that is flush with
the ground. They also sell two foot round & tall cement risers that have a lid. Next time I
need it pumped out I will just dig by hand under the brick, remove the metal cover
& the clean out access will be right there.

 

[BobT]

FYI,

If the septic was designed by an engineer, the septic will be at a point located by triangulating 100 feet from each corner of the back of the house. If you have no "map" or other info, that would be a good place to start looking (digging).

BobT.
A Indiana Boy

 

[TerryinMD]

Another way to locate it is to see if the grass is either a little drier or maybe greener in the area. Drier if the tank is very close to the surface. Greener if the tank is putting off some moisture. Concrete will draw off a little moisture and perk up to the surface.

Another way is to look for it melting the snow or frost since the ground should be warmer if the septic tank is doing it's job.

Hope this helps some.

Terry

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Metal detectors work real well for locating the reenforcing mesh in the lid. The fellow who pumps mine has a T shaped metal rod witha sharp point on the bottom of the T, for probing around to find the center of the tank.
The top of the septic tank is usually less than 18" from the surphace. Tanks are also required to be so many feet from a well, so if you follow a line from the house the distance from the well, you usually find the tank pretty easy.

 

[Bird]

I've got one of those probes myself; great for locating underground pipe, but when I had my sewer system put in. I told them they couldn't just bury that first tank; had to put a concrete collar over the access hole and a lid on it, so it's real easy to open to pump out when it needs it.

Bird

 

[Richard]

I know where tank is, probably could take a stick and place over where access is also. I had just never thought of putting some kind of access tunnel there.

Ours is simply covered by dirt, the depth I'm uncertain. We (two of us) have been in the house for say, 4 years now. New construction. This talk about preventative cleaning out has my intrigued.

I just had timing belt break on Volvo. Gonna cost $3,500 to fix because all 24 valves are now pretzles.

I'm a big fan of preventative maintainence. I think my wife now is too (HER volvo...but I still get to pay!!) /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

Richard

 

[dthomas]

HighTech,
Finally...a subject I know a little bit about. This is how I make my living. Don't have time to read all the posts right now but tonight I will and make my comments if all the bases are not already covered. /w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif

Donald

 

[MossRoad]

My septic tanks are 18" - 24" below the ground. I have them measured from two corners of the house, so they are easy to find. I have a round ring of edging around them that I can plant petunias in. The soil is always loose because of the flower bed. Works great. My dry well used to be 2' under ground. The previous owner removed the manhole lid, put in a 2' high piece of pipe the same size as the lid, then put the lid on top of that at ground level for easy access. The poop sucker guy told me I should remove the pipe and put it back to 2' under ground. I asked why? He said a little kid died after falling in one just 4 blocks from my house. I said a little kid couldn't lift that concrete lid. He said, no, it took two of them. I'm going to have it put back to the proper way before the ground freezes, and put a little flower bed over it as well. Just a thought.

<font color=green> MossRoad </font color=green>

 

[RJohnson]

Richard,
Your builder should have provided you with some information on upkeep of the septic system. Too often we all have the "out-of-sight, out-of-mind" type of mentality. How big your tank is, how many people are "feeding"/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gifit, and what you flush down the toliet all affect how often the tank needs to be pumped. Do you have a garbage disposal? If so you will need to pump more often.
You might wish to look at this link for general information on septic tanks.
http://www.beverlysofficepark.com/septicsystemsexpress/faqs.htm
I have done a lot of research on the type of septic system that I am going to put in for my retirement home. Just one thing to keep in mind, every onsite septic system does a good job a digesting the organic material but there is a large amount of inorganic material that goes down the drain. This is what your tank is for, to trap it so that it can be removed before your system backs up and tells you something is wrong. Good luck on you PM it sounds like it is about time for you to pump your tank.

Randy

<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by RJohnson on 11/02/01 11:52 AM (server time).</FONT></P>

 

[Bird]

Randy, once when I was in Alaska, I went fishing on a 42' boat that belonged to a friend of my brother's and in the head there was a nice placard that said, "Please don't put anything in the toilet that you haven't eaten first!" Maybe that's what we need to do for our septic systems?/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

Bird

 

[MikePA]

Thanks for the laugh, Bird! /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[GrantMO]

I talked to a septic installer when we bought our house and he sent me some guidelines and helpful hints that were from the state regarding septic systems. They recommend similar things as above: limit the amount of stuff that goes down the disposal, get the tank cleaned regularly and more often with more people in the house. They even say to reasonably limit the amount of water, etc. that goes down the drain per day. In other words don't do all the laundry plus the dishes and several baths, showers etc. in a short time.

 

[Tdog]

OK, I've decided to get my tank pumped - - its been about 5-6 years, so from what I read, I'm due. And, you've convinced me that additives are a waste of money - - the natural bacteria should do the job on its own.

Here's a question that I'm unsure of - - do any of the root killers that I see in stores work? I know the field should be away from trees, but I'm stuck with what was here when we bought the house, & there are bunches of trees all around the tank and the field. Anyone have any experience on this?

thanx

 

[TerryinMD]

Tdog,

Cut the dang things down!! Take a look at the limbs hanging from the tree. If they are over your tank and field, there's a good chance that the roots have migrated to all of that yummy septic effluent.

We HAD (key word here) a Cottonwood tree that was 15-20 feet away from the septic field. Should have taken it out when we cleared the lot, but it looked "nice". After 11 years of filter clogging cotton and all of the small branches shed, it was time!! One of my neighbors came over and took it out.

Well, the "funny" part of this story is that quarts of water poured out of that tree right after it was cut. And, it kinda smelled. Hmmmm.... wonder why? /w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif/w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif Needless to say, no more problems. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

I guess what I'm trying to convey is get rid of the trees around the septic tank and field. As far as using some kind of chemical additivie, I can't comment on that. My take on using chemicals is to use them as the last resort.

Terry

 

[MossRoad]

Maybe that's why they call it a field system and not a woods system.

<font color=green> MossRoad </font color=green>

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Bout the only chemical additive that really works for tree roots in a septic system is called RotoRooter.
The best part is you can use Roto Rooter over and over till you remove the tree.