Septic Sludge

   / Septic Sludge #12  
One around here uses "Your poop is our bread and butter".

The guy I used last year ran water into the tank as he was pumping (I was surprised because that fills up his tank faster and I'm sure the disposal fees are based on gallons). We have mandatory inspection every 3 years. Depending on the solid level pumping may also be required but our septic guy says he will always pump regardless of solids. Proof has to be submitted to the county and the fines are pretty stiff.
 
   / Septic Sludge #13  
Just paid $450 to get my 1000 gal tank pumped.
 
   / Septic Sludge #14  
How about, This tank is full of political promises. I seen this on the back of a local truck.

Dave
 
   / Septic Sludge #15  
had mine done about 10 months ago 1200 gal for $220 in SW Ohio
 
   / Septic Sludge #17  
The sludge forms on the bottom of the septic tank - the scum floats to the top of the tank. When you get things opened up I would recommend a reputable contractor take a look at your system and make recommendations. Either a septic contractor or the local health dept. I just saw a replacement system installed - septic tank to pump tank to pressure drainfield - a relatively simple system. Cost - $15,500. A mound system will be considerably more expensive because of the more detailed earth work and materials. The point being - if your system can still be expected to function then for goodness sake go with it and any suggested upgrades - like you indicated - a new system, whatever the health dept requires will be expensive. In the future - have your system pumped every two years.
My twenty years in Anchorage, AK was as director of Env Health. During the pipeline boom we designed & inspected 1500-2000 new systems in the Anchorage borough annually. I have more than a lifetime of knowledge in S--T.
 
   / Septic Sludge #18  
In Wisconsin it is now a 3 chamber tank. #1 from the house that pours into #2 a mostly empty liquid chamber that contains a filter on the bottom and feeds #3 at the bottom to the pumping chamber to the field (the pump sits on the bottom of chamber 3 with a float switch). We have very sandy soil here so the field is what they call "standard" (i.e. no mound or "at grade"). I installed it 3 years ago at around $6,500 total cost. As noted, the last 2 chambers are really only "transfer" tanks and not much in them. It's not required but it is suggested that the filter (chamber 2) be cleaned every year. It's easy enough to do but I plan on having my septic guy do it once he gets past the Sept 30 deadline for mandatory inspection/pumping. I know from experience that a good septic guy can be more valuable than anybody you know!!! And I'll add that the going rate here is $135 to pump!!! I suspect that is low because the State is **** about ground water pollution and there are probably a lot of subsidies involved to keep the cost low.
 
   / Septic Sludge #19  
I know from experience that a good septic guy can be more valuable than anybody you know!!! And I'll add that the going rate here is $135 to pump!!! I suspect that is low because the State is **** about ground water pollution and there are probably a lot of subsidies involved to keep the cost low
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
And a bad septic guy(s) can almost ruin you financially - don't ask me how I know.
If your present system can be improved and/or upgraded for a few thousand, do it. Be sure to keep up on the maintenance as it will more than pay you back.
Incidently, where I live at 40 miles out of town but on a main highway, a pump out is around $500. It would be cheaper if there were two or three homes to pump. For a single home pump out (urgent) it would be close to $700.

The prices you guys get down in the US are extremely cheap.

Jim
 
   / Septic Sludge #20  
2 tanks = $400 here. If you think BC is ****, try Kalifornia... but we won't go there. Reminds me of a joke I can't post.

Our system was a cheapie redneck diy project that came with the house. They used the white flexible 4" drain pipe for the run from the house down to the tanks. Earth pressure forces that into an oval, allowing enough liquid out to attract roots. Roots close the run down to about a 1" opening or less, and then, sludge happens... the early warning system is a pool around the base of the master toilet. I installed a clean out and got a 50' tape snake (the kind that rolls up like a flat spring, and occasionally explodes out of the metal frame). It has saved me hundred$$ in roto-rooter calls, but not my idea of a good time.

He quoted me $1200 to replace the 60 foot run with "real" pipe and fix the T inside the box that was likely blasted out by a roto-rooter. I consider this well worth it and this thread reminded me to call him again... he was too busy pumping with our latest artificial housing boom back in May to tackle a rebuild.
 

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