Septic System - Part 2

tillboy2001 · Apr 30, 2005

Those of you that remember this thread - Septic System - Mowing

Here's more info. I found the video of the install. Sorry for the poor quality, but I had to record it off the TV since I had no way to transfer the old VCR tape to the digital camcorder.

Here you can see how the distribution box is and what the lines look like. I think there's a way to adjust the flow using the dist. box. I need to check that out. I want to try to divert the flow more to the lines that aren't soaking the soil.

4.7 MB video file - Windows Media Player required (and of course a high speed internet connection will help). Click HERE FOR VIDEO

Any comments or suggestions after having seen this? The other thread explains why I'm interested in looking at the distribution box.

450EXC · Apr 30, 2005

I have the Slowboattochina connection so I didn't look at your video but you should have 4" pipe leaving the d-box. 4" pvc plugs fit into the d-box outlet pipes, loose fit. These plugs have small 2" holes in them which let the water out of the box into the leach finger. The caps spin in the pipe which lets you raise or lower the outlet elevation to even out all of the fingers. In this case you would want to raise the wet lines to divert water to the dry ones. This is what I have seen up here, may be diff in your area.
Larry

tillboy2001 · Apr 30, 2005

I think you're on track. I'm pretty sure I remember hearing the installer mention a way to adjust them, but I can't remember what he said. The video shows the D box with a 4" inlet and then several 4" outlets with adapters that drop it down to about 2" before the lines run out to the leach field chambers. I was hoping anything I needed to do would be at the D box. If so, I know about where it is so I can dig it up.

JoeinTX · May 1, 2005

This should probably have gone with the original post, but have you ever thought about simply straddling the sewer lines with your tractor/mower and then just mowing around? Maybe I don't understand your quandary, but this is how I have kept sewer lines cut for years with no problem.

captain71c · May 1, 2005

When I installed systems we used to place a little mortar in the pipe to adjust the flow. Just place the mortar in the pipe you want to slow the flow to. Just a quarter inch or so will divert the flow but leave that leg of the system available for high demand times. Is it possible that the box is out of level so the "water" is soaking only one leg of the system?

tillboy2001 · May 2, 2005

I'm really HOPING this picture shows what I have. I know I have a box like that, but I didn't see the adjustable seals on at the time I shot the video. I'm hoping they were installed after the video was taken. I wish I had been around when he finished up and asked questions. I'm pretty sure this is what I have though. I might dig up the D box this week and have a look. Fortunately, I know almost exactly where the box is since I have the video /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif In the attached photo, you can see where the adjustable seals are. Rotate the hole towards the bottom of the box and more water flows to the field. Rotate the hole up and less water flows. The 'hole' is the white round circle you see inside the black portion of the pipe.

Tim_in_IA · May 2, 2005

Yup. That is the way it works. I watched them 'tune' mine when it was installed. How many runs do you have?? That box looked pretty busy to me. That might be to your benefit if you have several runs you could turn off the nasty ones and turn them back on in a year or so. I also read that you can cause this by sending too much water through the system at a time. You might want to check your showerheads, and other fixtures to make sure there are no drips and that you have economy heads on the showers. Just an idea. That video was a great idea! I think I have pictures, but the video really walks you through it.

tillboy2001 · May 2, 2005

There are 6 outlets coming out the the box and 1 inlet. I'll have to review the full video again to see if I can confirm there are indeed 6 runs. I'm not sure I went all the way down the yard with my camera though. Not sure if I have it all on tape. But assuming they wouldn't put 6 outlets in for no reason, I'd say I have 6. I'll plan on diverting more water to the upper runs since those aren't wet. We'll see what happens.

Highbeam · May 2, 2005

You may find that your box has settled or that the tuning was never done and that the one wet leg has been receiving all or at least way too much effluent. Don't just reduce the flow to this leg, actually shut it off for a year. The leg needs to rest to rejuvinate itself. The biomat inside the chamber needs to dry up and die. After a year, better to wait two, you could equally utilize each leg.

That box needs to be opened up to see what's going on.

tillboy2001 · May 3, 2005

Well I dug it up this evening. I'll provide more details later when I have time, but here is what I found. Photos here: PHOTOS

Ok, now that I have some time. Here are the problems I found.
1. Box has settled a little, but no big deal. Lower run leach lines were getting more water due to the tilt in the box, but I went ahead and adjusted the fitting so they won't get any water unless the water level reaches the highest setting.
2. Concrete baffle that slides into the box just after the inlet was eaten away into almost nothing. If you look closely you can see how it's all ate away and falling apart. I scooped what was left of it out of the bottom of the box.
3. Other runs needed to be adjust a little.

It looks like all the runs were getting some water, but the the 2 at the top of the box near where the inlet is weren't getting hardly anything at all. So I turned the fittings on the ones that were getting a lot all the way to the top so they won't get much of anything. Then I adjusted the 3 on the one side that had runs going higher in the yard so they get a lot since the ground isn't wet around those. Hopefully this will help out a lot.

I'll need to buy a new baffle or whatever you want to call it.