pmsmechanic
Elite Member
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2013
- Messages
- 4,226
- Location
- Southern Alberta, Canada
- Tractor
- 4410 and F-935 John Deere, MF 245
For years I wanted a shop sink. Like the original OP, a connection to the house septic/drain field was geographically impossible. I looked at plastic holding tanks and was advised they need to be kept partially filled to prevent floating. I then priced concrete septic tanks and with delivery, the cost exceeded my megar budget.
I ended up purchasing two 36 X 36 concrete sewer pipes, a concrete 48 dia. Cookie (for a bottom), and a cookie with a man hole opening for the top. Setting the tiles end to end vertically on the solid cookie bottom and covering with the top manhole cookie created an inexpensive underground tank. The real labor was cutting a pair of holes in the sides of the top tile for an inlet and out let pipe, both cemented in the openings with hydraulic cement.
The leach field is about 50 of perforated pipe in a trench filled with 1 stone.
There is no toilet in this equation but the convince of a shop sink is wonderfully convient. System has been up and running for about three years now and works flawlessly.
B. John
I would be tempted to do something similar to this. Maybe go 48" pipe. If you pour a wall inside to divide it in half you'd basically have a sewer tank. (Research this to make sure you design the wall properly.) If your soil is porous and dry enough then the tank would probably drain itself. If not then you could set up a sewage pump to either pump out into the bushes somewhere or into the second side of your house sewage system.
People I know did this with their farm shop. They installed a regular sewage tank. They didn't install a sewage pump but went with an alarm system. When the sewage tank needs pumping the theory was to hire a sewage disposal truck. In practicality the grey water just gets pumped out into the grass a couple hundred feet away from the shop.