service wire too thick for breaker

[sandman2234]

When it comes to buying copper wire, no run is short! Prices have gone thru the roof, and I am keeping all my scraps under lock and key.
David from jax

 

[fishman]

The pull on one is 135', and I've got $360 tied up in the wire I bought. So I really don't want to have to replace it, unless it is the cheapest option (I really hope that isn't the case). The other is about 20' but a fairly sharp bend, necessitated because of a decorative bush, might cause problems. Three strands of 4/0 wire doesn't bend easily at all and it was all I could do to get it through that area before joining the pipe together. I don't know about now.

I don't want to return the boxes, as they are already installed with knockouts, etc. My plan is to find a solution (right now it looks like Johnnylights will work) and then take a sample of the wire and the breaker to Lowes and talk to the manager. I will explain the problem and the expense and labor it put me out and see what they will do for me.

Any other thoughts on crimping vs. kearney? Are crimpers universal . . . i.e. can I use the same crimper to do #12 wire and 4/0 wire? If so, then the tool would have utility after this project.

 

[gordon21]

Do NOT trim the existing aluminum wire. Any decent home inspector will eat you alive on a report done for a potential buyer. Even the mediocre ones will at least pull the panel cover a take a quick look see. I doubt he would miss it. The sale of your house could be delayed/ruined while you had to make extensive after the fact repairs.

 

[podagrower]

The crimpers I have used in the past for large wires are not univeral (universal parts universally don't fit anyway) and had seperate dies for different size connectors. I don't think it's the kind of thing to buy for a single project. Maybe you could rent one for your project.
Crimp connectors can leave a cleaner looking install if you are using inline splices. There is no difference in functunality between crimp and bolt. I have installed split bolts that are still doing their job many years later. Johnnylight is right on about the rubber tape though, I forgot to mention it earlier.

 

[Inspector507]

Are crimpers universal . . . i.e. can I use the same crimper to do #12 wire and 4/0 wire? If so, then the tool would have utility after this project.

Crimpers are not universal. If you can find someone with the correct crimp tool and the correct size die for it, these offset pin terminals are the best way to do it. Those are offset, they also come in straight. I have no idea how much the crimper is, or the dies, but it's probably more than you paid for the wire.

 

[johnnylight]

here's a picture of a alum to copper connector Burndy is the make.
Usually found in overhead type connections.
The common tool for this is a 4/0 crimper no dies required because the connector differs for the cable application color coded connectors for all sizes no larger than 4/0 with the one in the picture.


The 4/0 stop copper connectors have adapters that fit inside from a #6,8,2, 2/0 and of course no adapter required for a 4/0.
All you would need is the Penetox for the alum side.

Do you know any utility workers in your area?

 

[johnnylight]

are you sure they don't make a breaker for that panel?

try calling direct: Residential Products - Eaton.com

 

[TedLaRue]

I think Sully2 has the right idea (return the box to Lowe's). But I think their error was in selling a box that wouldn't accept 4/0 main breakers. Even if you have to pay more for the right box, it'll probably be cheaper than buying the split bolts or crimps and going to all of that trouble, ultimately creating a messy job.

I didn't see this mentioned in any of the previous posts: If you splice the wire to 2/0 copper, the splice must be in a box. Getting the insulated splice inside the main box will probably be difficult and very cramped and difficult to maintain later if there are problems or modifications. If you use a separate box before the main panel, then you'll have to modify your conduit, buy the extra box and the conduit-to-box connectors, etc.

Return the wrong box to Lowe's and complain loudly about your wasted labor/time based on their bad advice, then buy and install a box that'll handle main breakers that are rated for the aluminum 4/0. I'm partial to Square-D myself...I like the way the breakers and bus bar are arranged and the overall quality. A little pricey, but I think it's worth it. They have a cheaper "HomeLine" series which might be ok, but I avoid them and get the higher quality stuff (which is the stuff Square D built its reputation on).

Don't forget to go back a few days later and retighten the connectors to your aluminum service entrance wire. They tend to loosen up after the initial tightening.

 

[TedLaRue]

As for returning a box to Lowes with knockouts missing, etc.... Assuming your post is correct, this resulted because of bad advice from a Lowe's employee. I think they'll refund your money. There's nothing wrong with your service entrance wire. It has the correct ampacity. The right thing to do is replace the box. You'll sleep better knowing you've done it that way. Splices, trimming the strands, etc. lead to those other posts of misfortune on TBN that we all find scary or amusing.

 

[fishman]

Well I returned the boxes to Lowe's, got my money back, and then went to an electrical supply house. For not a great deal more money, my barns now each have a 200 amp panel and I got a lot of good advice. In fact, my tractor barn now has a 120 outlet for my air compressor, two (yes two) welding plugs, as I have access to a plasma cutter that also uses that outlet, and four 200 watt lights. I plan to add some additional outlets and then continue work on the other barn, which just has the rv outlet installed right now. Thanks to everyone for the advice. There's always more than one way to do something and it's up to you to figure out what works for you.