Setting Rear Height on Brush Hog

8N_John · Jun 8, 2005

I'm using a 52 8N and an old Ford 'Special' 5' Brushhog. I have 2 problems. The sides of the brushhog dig into the ground when mowing - also when I go into reverse, the rear wheel gets caught, won't turn, and digs into the ground.

I have no way to adjust the height of the rear wheel. I was thinking about adding a 1 or 2 inch collar/spacer where the wheel attaches to raise the wheel and prevent these problems. Anyone heard of such a thing or know where to buy one? Any other suggestions?

Slamfire · Jun 8, 2005

You can get a long pin for the bracket where the top link fastens to the tractor, and using clevises, hang a couple of chains from it. Fasten them to the arms of the three point and adjust them so the bush hog bottom floats over the ground. Constructing a simple A frame at the rear can give you a way to adjust the height of the rear wheel. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

djradz · Jun 8, 2005

Like so?

Jagmandave · Jun 8, 2005

Good thing I didn't see this before I bought my ZTR, I might not have had the excuse to buy it then. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
I had the same problem with the corners digging in on turns, I used to just raise it up a bit while I turned then let it down again when straightened out, but that was a PITA..........

have_blue · Jun 8, 2005

( Like so? )

DJ,

That's the nicest setup I have seen so far. That's the way I will do mine, if I may steal the design from you.

Now for an igernant question: /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

The chain is on nearly a 45 Deg. angle, which puts a tremendous strain on the chain and top link bracket casting or weldment. Aren't you a little bit afraid of popping it with a large heavy cutter?

I know the check chains work, (because a lot smarter people than me say they do) but I'll be doggoned if I can visualize how. The 3 point arms limit how low the cutter can go, and allow floating upwards just like the chains. Please enlighten me!

JerryG · Jun 8, 2005

They are used primarily on older tractors where the three point leaks down or on tractors that don't have position control.

HammerFour · Jun 8, 2005

If your 3ph doesn't droop over time, you don't need the check chains.

I guess you could use them to make sure you dropped the cutter to the same height every time if you don't have position control.

For the original poster, if the sides of the cutter are digging in when you are mowing, I would say you are running it a bit to low. You might post a picture so we can see if we can offer any hints on setting the rear wheel height. Some mowers have collars that you move above or below the wheel pivot point to raise or lower the cutting height. My finish mower and a rotary cutter we used to have were that way.

slowrev · Jun 8, 2005

I have similiar chains on my tractor. I use them to support a 3/4 ton weight bracket so the strain is not on the lift mechanism all the time. The weight bracket stays on the tractor 90% of the time. My tractor has position control and 0 drop after 1 week with 3/4 ton hanging on it. Sometimes I forget to let it down on the chains /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif after raising it up to clear an obstacle.

and also to control create a drop limit for attachments such as a brush hog. No thinking just drop the lift lever all the way and go /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
consistent cuts too.

No problems on the housing on my old IH supporting it since 1968.
Ben

Soundguy · Jun 8, 2005

( The chain is on nearly a 45 Deg. angle, which puts a tremendous strain on the chain and top link bracket casting or weldment. Aren't you a little bit afraid of popping it with a large heavy cutter )

it's not as bad as you think. These check chains are common. TSC sells them.. as do the CNH dealers. i made a set for my fords. In fact, the 9n and 2n ford had draft hyds only.. no position control. A set of these chains were almost -mandatory- in order to run a mower.

Remember.. the rear wheel is still carrying some weight.. and those cast top link connection points are strong like bull.. after all.. they are a connecting point for lifting an implement.. possibly much heavier than a mower. My lift on my 8n is rated for about 800# before the front end gets light.. that 500# mower is no problem.

Soundguy

JerryG · Jun 8, 2005

I had forgotten about the heavy weight with the chains. Not only are the chains good for that, but also some people that have industrial loader tractors use a solid bar in the same place instead of the chains.

8N_John · Jun 8, 2005

I use check chains (similar to djrazd's setup), but that seems to only affect the front height. Am I doing something wrong? Maybe I need to adjust the dogbone??

rpeter · Jun 8, 2005

Thanks for the picture. Sure is worth a "thousand words". I have read numerous threads where people have referred to check chains and just could not picture it in my mind. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Soundguy · Jun 9, 2005

( use check chains (similar to djrazd's setup), but that seems to only affect the front height. Am I doing something wrong? Maybe I need to adjust the dogbone?? )

The check chains are for the front height.. the top link won't effect front height much.. except that if you have it too long.. you won't be able to lower as far.. and the back of the implement will be pushed down.. too short and the rear is off the ground.

Youve already stated that your rear wheel is not adjustable the way it is currently setup. As it is you can now ONLY adjust front height.. I'm not sure what you are asking.. if you are asking how to adjust rear of the mower height.. then it should be obvious as another poster stated.. that you need to modify your tail wheel to be adjustable again.

Soundguy

HomeBrew2 · Jun 9, 2005

Yeh, the chains only affect the front. The dogbone is the key to it. Some throw the toplink away and put a chain in. Not sure that's for me yet so I just extend the top link most all the way for doing hogging on rough and rolling land (not steep transitions). Going from flat to a severe downgrade or upgrade would require a different adjustment though cuz it'll shove the dogbone thru the a-frame, jamming the entire affair and stand the hog on it's nose ... which I found to be rather annoying.

Indydirtfarmer · Jun 9, 2005

( ... which I found to be rather annoying. )

Annoying OK.... Like a bullet to the temple.... /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

thingy · Jun 9, 2005

Concerning the top link on when using a brushog,,,,,,there are only two possible uses for it,,,to let you pick up mower and to stop mower from flipping when it catches on something,,,,,I use a length of chain instead of top link,,it lets mower rear float up and down with conture of ground,,and you can still pick rear off ground,, secondly,,,unless you are mowing in a place with stumps and such that MAYBE front could catch on and thus flip,,that danger doesn't exsist,,,you would have to be going fast and paying no attention to have that happen,,,[I bet nobody has seen it],,,thats the only two uses I can think of for using top link when brushoging,,,it works better not using it for the reason above,,it allows rear to float,,,,,the front height is obtained by the lift arms,the rear height is obtained from rear wheel or wheels,,,its as simple as that,,,,you don't need a top link OR a chain to cut with,,,try it,,you won't be able to lift rear,thats all,,it will than be a pull type mower not a three point mower,,,,,,,,,now as far as those front check chains,,,yeah,good idea IF three point leaks down,,,,if it doesn't seems a waste of money and time to me,,,,my cheap ole chinese jinma has a postion control and has not leaked down in three years now,,brush hog is on the back of it now,,and it will be in same spot,[I bet],a month from now,,,,,you would think most others would be the same???I'm talking newer big three or four brands,[like in that picture],,the lifts are made to hold not leak down or break,,just cause you are holding the FRONT of a brushog up,,if it can't,,than its broken or something,,,,thingy

have_blue · Jun 9, 2005

( Concerning the top link on when using a brushog,,,,,,)

Now THAT makes perfect sense. I've been straining my 3 brain cells for months trying to figure out how check chains could help.

I like chains. I use them wherever I can.

I've already replaced some giant heavy bars on my brush hog's "A" frame with chains. I think it saved close to 25 pounds, a lot of noise, and helped reduce scalping and gouging a little bit. I am considering replacing the top link with a nice little chain that I can swap out quickly as I change implements.

Soundguy · Jun 9, 2005

( Concerning the top link on when using a brushog,,,,,,there are only two possible uses for it )

You are leaving out the '3rd' very important use for the toplink.. and this applies for the brushhog as well... The rigid toplink helps stall a backflip.

Most toplink connections nowadays either hav a slot our a floating 'U' shaped piece to give the front of the mower a few inches of 'give' for terain changes.

Soundguy

thingy · Jun 9, 2005

A backflip???????If you mean a forward type flip,[front catching on something[maybe],and before you know whats going on,,,[doubtfull at best],rear going over front towards tractor,,[uh,uh],,,,,I mentioned that,,,,but a backflip???anyways I use a chain for top link,,it ain't going to backflip,,,,,now,,how could you backflip one????thingy

thingy · Jun 9, 2005

Oh,,I get it,,TRACTOR BACKFLIPING,,,,,,yeah could see how it might help there,,,BUT,,,,,thought about that,,,I got some hills,,,places aproaching close to 45 degrees,[no lie],,,now when you top some of these areas,or are on some of these areas and go over ground that does this......the rear of brushog comes off ground with rigid top link,,,,so maybe in the steepest part of climb,you went from carrying half of brush hog weight to all of it,,,,now that COULD make front end come up alright,,,,,so,,figured it would be better to carry half the weight all the time up the hill,,than half the weight part of the time and all the weight at maybe the worst time,,and the half you are carrying is close to tractor the tail wheel is carrying that part thats six foot back,,,,you got to really go over a big hump for rear to come off ground with the chain as top link,,,you can set it to any length you want,,,I got a good bit of slack in mine,,,but can still pick rear up maybe close to a foot on level ground,those swivel things that come with them arebetter than nothing but not much,,tried them in every possible way,,,,till I tried the chain,,,,,,,and unless you are mowing on a lot of hilly strange to you ground,,,you shouldn't be going anywhere where a backflip might happen anyways,,,,I don't have a fel on my jinma,,but put over 200 lbs of extra weight on front by using a 3/4 allthread rod with weight lifting weights and ran them through slot in factory weights,,so I now have well over 300 lbs,close to 400 I reckon on front end,might not of had to but I did,,front has never came up,,,and like I said,,I got some very steep hills here in w.va.,[got a couple flat spots too],,,,thingy